Dayton RS100-4

italynstylion · 24th March 2009, 09:03 PM

Specs Found Here

It appears to be a nice little driver (especially for the money).

I did some searching but found very little info on it. Low FS with 4mm of xmax should allow it some decent low end extension. However, I am a little worried about using it all the way up without a tweeter. Should I be?

My idea was to use these in a compact home theater setup for a friend. Does anyone have experience with these? I was thinking of some simple BR enclosures with a single driver for the rears and either a horn for the mains or a BR with two drivers. This guy will have a sub to pair it all with so I don't need anything below 80ish hz out of these.

Iain McNeill · 24th March 2009, 09:09 PM

I'm just knocking up a couple of cabs for this speaker right now. I'll let you know how it works out.

Cal Weldon · 24th March 2009, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Iain McNeill
knocking up

I've always loved that term.

italynstylion · 24th March 2009, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Iain McNeill
I'm just knocking up a couple of cabs for this speaker right now. I'll let you know how it works out.

Excellent! I read that they are a quality driver and most had good things to say about them but they didn't seem to be very widely used so it kinda made me wonder.

What type of cabinets are you making?

Quote:

Originally posted by Cal Weldon

I've always loved that term.

rofl....mind in the gutter!

Driver_King · 24th March 2009, 10:04 PM

I was going to start a thread on this driver. Maybe I should but this is my question. I would actually be using the RS100S driver (shielded 8 ohm) in a single driver enclosure (very small, portable). The thing is though is that I want to get the best bass output possible while keeping the cabinet small and I am interested in doing a transmission line type enclosure to get the most bass possible. The next thing is that I am really bad with creating designs and dealing with the technical side of designing speaker enclosures.

If I can get a small enclosure for the driver I am mentioning to get the most bass possible, I would go way out of my way to make it if need be (making a complex cabinet). Can anyone help me with this? At this site, anything seems possible. Thanks in advance!

italynstylion · 24th March 2009, 10:10 PM

No need to make another thread...Ask away in here. We can make this a thread for both versions.

I'm interested in both the shielded 8 ohm and non shielded 4 ohm versions. I might be using a combination of them to complete a 5.1 setup.

Driver_King · 24th March 2009, 10:15 PM

This project excites me.

I would be so happy if I could get what I asked for done!

Kensai · 24th March 2009, 11:02 PM

I've been using the 8ohm shielded version on OB for a long time now. By itself, with the right EQ and the right source material (no FX DVDs), they're great to the mid 50s. They bottom out pretty quick if there's any serious info in the bottom octave, so if I use them solo, I usually put a hefty cut down there to keep info I can't hear from distorting the rest.

I use them with Dayton RS-225-8s as helper woofers. I'm using a Panasonic XR-57 receiver (nice sounding digital amps) crossed at 150Hz to the RS-100s and then a Dayton APA-150 stereo amp (the one with the option to use as a sub amplifier w/variable crossover) to push the RS-225s. I'm actually using some really tiny black foam core baffles right now. Was supposed to be temporary, but you know how those sorts of things happen. This is my office rig, so I'm nearfield. In the chair, it sounds fantastic with bass to 30Hz, easy. Being on small baffles, though, the base rolls off quick as you move away from the desk which has turned out to be ideal. I'm in a newly finished basement, and its where I retreat after the kids go to bed. The way this works, I can seriously crank the music and its completely audible upstairs, even directly overhead.

Oh, and the top end . . . these are my favorite drivers to date, and the crystal clear high end is part of it. I thought that I had some hearing loss as I could never hear test tones above 16kHz or so with any other driver I've ever had (including a pair of B&G Neo3PDR tweeters which I always loved the sound of). With the RS-100, I can hear the 20kHz tones just fine, and on sweeps, they sound pretty flat throughout, so I generally run them with no EQ at all. I imagine the 4ohm version may even sound a bit hot up top, just going by the published graphs (thanks to Zaph), though I imagine their solo performance on OB will be less than the 8ohm (they look more like box or horn drivers just by spec; probably make great BiBs).

Highly recommended.

Kensai

Iain McNeill · 24th March 2009, 11:14 PM

All good stuff

I've got both unshielded 4ohms and shielded 8ohms. I liked the idea of 4ohms to squeeze a bit more power out of the amps (Douglas Self's class G design from many years ago)

Nothing special about the boxes - 3.5liter sealed in golden ratio, braced & stuffed - just something to try them out in really. Never did trust manufacturers specs.

First application is as an artificial mouth so I only need 200Hz to 4KHz really (telecom app) but if they work well they may replace my previous faves, the unobtainable Vifa MG10MD. Was using a TangBand W3-1364 but at 15W they just don't have the balz.

Driver_King · 24th March 2009, 11:41 PM

Is my project doable guys? I just want to get an idea.

24th March 2009, 09:03 PM	#1
italynstylion diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx.	Dayton RS100-4 Specs Found Here It appears to be a nice little driver (especially for the money). I did some searching but found very little info on it. Low FS with 4mm of xmax should allow it some decent low end extension. However, I am a little worried about using it all the way up without a tweeter. Should I be? My idea was to use these in a compact home theater setup for a friend. Does anyone have experience with these? I was thinking of some simple BR enclosures with a single driver for the rears and either a horn for the mains or a BR with two drivers. This guy will have a sub to pair it all with so I don't need anything below 80ish hz out of these.

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24th March 2009, 09:09 PM	#2
Iain McNeill diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Santa Cruz, California	I'm just knocking up a couple of cabs for this speaker right now. I'll let you know how it works out.

24th March 2009, 10:04 PM	#5
Driver_King diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	I was going to start a thread on this driver. Maybe I should but this is my question. I would actually be using the RS100S driver (shielded 8 ohm) in a single driver enclosure (very small, portable). The thing is though is that I want to get the best bass output possible while keeping the cabinet small and I am interested in doing a transmission line type enclosure to get the most bass possible. The next thing is that I am really bad with creating designs and dealing with the technical side of designing speaker enclosures. If I can get a small enclosure for the driver I am mentioning to get the most bass possible, I would go way out of my way to make it if need be (making a complex cabinet). Can anyone help me with this? At this site, anything seems possible. Thanks in advance!

24th March 2009, 10:10 PM	#6
italynstylion diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx.	No need to make another thread...Ask away in here. We can make this a thread for both versions. I'm interested in both the shielded 8 ohm and non shielded 4 ohm versions. I might be using a combination of them to complete a 5.1 setup.

24th March 2009, 10:15 PM	#7
Driver_King diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	This project excites me. I would be so happy if I could get what I asked for done!

24th March 2009, 11:02 PM	#8
Kensai diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: St. Louis	I've been using the 8ohm shielded version on OB for a long time now. By itself, with the right EQ and the right source material (no FX DVDs), they're great to the mid 50s. They bottom out pretty quick if there's any serious info in the bottom octave, so if I use them solo, I usually put a hefty cut down there to keep info I can't hear from distorting the rest. I use them with Dayton RS-225-8s as helper woofers. I'm using a Panasonic XR-57 receiver (nice sounding digital amps) crossed at 150Hz to the RS-100s and then a Dayton APA-150 stereo amp (the one with the option to use as a sub amplifier w/variable crossover) to push the RS-225s. I'm actually using some really tiny black foam core baffles right now. Was supposed to be temporary, but you know how those sorts of things happen. This is my office rig, so I'm nearfield. In the chair, it sounds fantastic with bass to 30Hz, easy. Being on small baffles, though, the base rolls off quick as you move away from the desk which has turned out to be ideal. I'm in a newly finished basement, and its where I retreat after the kids go to bed. The way this works, I can seriously crank the music and its completely audible upstairs, even directly overhead. Oh, and the top end . . . these are my favorite drivers to date, and the crystal clear high end is part of it. I thought that I had some hearing loss as I could never hear test tones above 16kHz or so with any other driver I've ever had (including a pair of B&G Neo3PDR tweeters which I always loved the sound of). With the RS-100, I can hear the 20kHz tones just fine, and on sweeps, they sound pretty flat throughout, so I generally run them with no EQ at all. I imagine the 4ohm version may even sound a bit hot up top, just going by the published graphs (thanks to Zaph), though I imagine their solo performance on OB will be less than the 8ohm (they look more like box or horn drivers just by spec; probably make great BiBs). Highly recommended. Kensai

24th March 2009, 11:14 PM	#9
Iain McNeill diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Santa Cruz, California	All good stuff I've got both unshielded 4ohms and shielded 8ohms. I liked the idea of 4ohms to squeeze a bit more power out of the amps (Douglas Self's class G design from many years ago) Nothing special about the boxes - 3.5liter sealed in golden ratio, braced & stuffed - just something to try them out in really. Never did trust manufacturers specs. First application is as an artificial mouth so I only need 200Hz to 4KHz really (telecom app) but if they work well they may replace my previous faves, the unobtainable Vifa MG10MD. Was using a TangBand W3-1364 but at 15W they just don't have the balz.

24th March 2009, 11:41 PM	#10
Driver_King diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	Is my project doable guys? I just want to get an idea.

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