Specs Found Here
It appears to be a nice little driver (especially for the money).
I did some searching but found very little info on it. Low FS with 4mm of xmax should allow it some decent low end extension. However, I am a little worried about using it all the way up without a tweeter. Should I be?
My idea was to use these in a compact home theater setup for a friend. Does anyone have experience with these? I was thinking of some simple BR enclosures with a single driver for the rears and either a horn for the mains or a BR with two drivers. This guy will have a sub to pair it all with so I don't need anything below 80ish hz out of these.
It appears to be a nice little driver (especially for the money).
I did some searching but found very little info on it. Low FS with 4mm of xmax should allow it some decent low end extension. However, I am a little worried about using it all the way up without a tweeter. Should I be?
My idea was to use these in a compact home theater setup for a friend. Does anyone have experience with these? I was thinking of some simple BR enclosures with a single driver for the rears and either a horn for the mains or a BR with two drivers. This guy will have a sub to pair it all with so I don't need anything below 80ish hz out of these.
I was going to start a thread on this driver. Maybe I should but this is my question. I would actually be using the RS100S driver (shielded 8 ohm) in a single driver enclosure (very small, portable). The thing is though is that I want to get the best bass output possible while keeping the cabinet small and I am interested in doing a transmission line type enclosure to get the most bass possible. The next thing is that I am really bad with creating designs and dealing with the technical side of designing speaker enclosures.
If I can get a small enclosure for the driver I am mentioning to get the most bass possible, I would go way out of my way to make it if need be (making a complex cabinet). Can anyone help me with this? At this site, anything seems possible. Thanks in advance!
If I can get a small enclosure for the driver I am mentioning to get the most bass possible, I would go way out of my way to make it if need be (making a complex cabinet). Can anyone help me with this? At this site, anything seems possible. Thanks in advance!
I've been using the 8ohm shielded version on OB for a long time now. By itself, with the right EQ and the right source material (no FX DVDs), they're great to the mid 50s. They bottom out pretty quick if there's any serious info in the bottom octave, so if I use them solo, I usually put a hefty cut down there to keep info I can't hear from distorting the rest.
I use them with Dayton RS-225-8s as helper woofers. I'm using a Panasonic XR-57 receiver (nice sounding digital amps) crossed at 150Hz to the RS-100s and then a Dayton APA-150 stereo amp (the one with the option to use as a sub amplifier w/variable crossover) to push the RS-225s. I'm actually using some really tiny black foam core baffles right now. Was supposed to be temporary, but you know how those sorts of things happen. This is my office rig, so I'm nearfield. In the chair, it sounds fantastic with bass to 30Hz, easy. Being on small baffles, though, the base rolls off quick as you move away from the desk which has turned out to be ideal. I'm in a newly finished basement, and its where I retreat after the kids go to bed. The way this works, I can seriously crank the music and its completely audible upstairs, even directly overhead.
Oh, and the top end . . . these are my favorite drivers to date, and the crystal clear high end is part of it. I thought that I had some hearing loss as I could never hear test tones above 16kHz or so with any other driver I've ever had (including a pair of B&G Neo3PDR tweeters which I always loved the sound of). With the RS-100, I can hear the 20kHz tones just fine, and on sweeps, they sound pretty flat throughout, so I generally run them with no EQ at all. I imagine the 4ohm version may even sound a bit hot up top, just going by the published graphs (thanks to Zaph), though I imagine their solo performance on OB will be less than the 8ohm (they look more like box or horn drivers just by spec; probably make great BiBs).
Highly recommended.
Kensai
I use them with Dayton RS-225-8s as helper woofers. I'm using a Panasonic XR-57 receiver (nice sounding digital amps) crossed at 150Hz to the RS-100s and then a Dayton APA-150 stereo amp (the one with the option to use as a sub amplifier w/variable crossover) to push the RS-225s. I'm actually using some really tiny black foam core baffles right now. Was supposed to be temporary, but you know how those sorts of things happen. This is my office rig, so I'm nearfield. In the chair, it sounds fantastic with bass to 30Hz, easy. Being on small baffles, though, the base rolls off quick as you move away from the desk which has turned out to be ideal. I'm in a newly finished basement, and its where I retreat after the kids go to bed. The way this works, I can seriously crank the music and its completely audible upstairs, even directly overhead.
Oh, and the top end . . . these are my favorite drivers to date, and the crystal clear high end is part of it. I thought that I had some hearing loss as I could never hear test tones above 16kHz or so with any other driver I've ever had (including a pair of B&G Neo3PDR tweeters which I always loved the sound of). With the RS-100, I can hear the 20kHz tones just fine, and on sweeps, they sound pretty flat throughout, so I generally run them with no EQ at all. I imagine the 4ohm version may even sound a bit hot up top, just going by the published graphs (thanks to Zaph), though I imagine their solo performance on OB will be less than the 8ohm (they look more like box or horn drivers just by spec; probably make great BiBs).
Highly recommended.
Kensai
All good stuff
I've got both unshielded 4ohms and shielded 8ohms. I liked the idea of 4ohms to squeeze a bit more power out of the amps (Douglas Self's class G design from many years ago)
Nothing special about the boxes - 3.5liter sealed in golden ratio, braced & stuffed - just something to try them out in really. Never did trust manufacturers specs.
First application is as an artificial mouth so I only need 200Hz to 4KHz really (telecom app) but if they work well they may replace my previous faves, the unobtainable Vifa MG10MD. Was using a TangBand W3-1364 but at 15W they just don't have the balz.
I've got both unshielded 4ohms and shielded 8ohms. I liked the idea of 4ohms to squeeze a bit more power out of the amps (Douglas Self's class G design from many years ago)
Nothing special about the boxes - 3.5liter sealed in golden ratio, braced & stuffed - just something to try them out in really. Never did trust manufacturers specs.
First application is as an artificial mouth so I only need 200Hz to 4KHz really (telecom app) but if they work well they may replace my previous faves, the unobtainable Vifa MG10MD. Was using a TangBand W3-1364 but at 15W they just don't have the balz.
more info please...
There is an unfortunate ambiguity here which materially changes the answer to the question:
"...most bass..."
Louder?
or
Deeper?
Isobaric (a tricky variation of sealed) will get deeper bass from a given (pair) of drivers in a certain enclosure volume, but the absolute SPL is still limited by the maximum excursion of a single driver and may not be very loud at all...
If "deeper" bass is not needed a ported enclosure of the same volume for the same pair of drivers will probably be more efficient and will play louder within it's passband.
etc...
My 2c, hth
Stuart
Driver_King said:
There is an unfortunate ambiguity here which materially changes the answer to the question:
"...most bass..."
Louder?
or
Deeper?
Isobaric (a tricky variation of sealed) will get deeper bass from a given (pair) of drivers in a certain enclosure volume, but the absolute SPL is still limited by the maximum excursion of a single driver and may not be very loud at all...
If "deeper" bass is not needed a ported enclosure of the same volume for the same pair of drivers will probably be more efficient and will play louder within it's passband.
etc...
My 2c, hth
Stuart
Driver_King said:How would you do either?
As much as most of us would enjoy designing you a pair of speakers, I fear that not many of us have the time. Especially in the current economic conditions.
However, if you explore the wiki here and many of the excellent threads on the subjects mentioned here you will collect much knowledge & wisdom.
Try downloading some of the freeware speaker design programs (google will reveal) and play around with a few ideas. Then when you have specific questions that can be answered in a post or two, come back and you will get much assistance.
Don't want to dampen your enthusiasm but the questions you're asking need 100's pages to answer correctly.
Driver King,
I'm constructing small-boxers with a similar criteria as yours at the mo. And like you I only halfway know what I'm doing so am having to ask/learn a good deal. If you'd like you can pm me and I'll collaborate with you as much as I can.
Everyone Else:
How do these Dayton's compare with TB (anyone used both?) for the upper-mid range. Particularly in smaller quarter-wave enclosures? I'm toying with using these or Tang Bands for two upcoming projects.
I'm constructing small-boxers with a similar criteria as yours at the mo. And like you I only halfway know what I'm doing so am having to ask/learn a good deal. If you'd like you can pm me and I'll collaborate with you as much as I can.
Everyone Else:
How do these Dayton's compare with TB (anyone used both?) for the upper-mid range. Particularly in smaller quarter-wave enclosures? I'm toying with using these or Tang Bands for two upcoming projects.
I am looking for the most bass output possible. The vent would be at the top with a special port placed inside the cabinet and funneled into a custom curved and pointed vent at the top. I have some Polk SDA II's if I want deep, clean bass. This is just a side project that I am actually building for a friend. I want them to be impressive.
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