There are a few 2.1 plate amplifiers. I doubt they xover as high as 400. I built a 2.1 system for my daughter and used one of these. She can just plug her laptop into the plate amp on the sub and she was set. I'll see if I can find a link.
Looking at the price of t-amp and gain clone finished boards on ebay, it seems like the future may be building bi or tri amp power modules when building speakers. I don't think most people would want that for their main system, but it might make for compact secondary systems.
Looking at the price of t-amp and gain clone finished boards on ebay, it seems like the future may be building bi or tri amp power modules when building speakers. I don't think most people would want that for their main system, but it might make for compact secondary systems.
That's the idea, but what you have drawn is WAY bigger than you need. The 2 cabinet idea probably works better and will give you more versatility (ie you can swap woofer or midtweeter assemblies to try other drivers).
attached is a sketch of one way to do it. Dimensions are PFA (only a guidline) and confguired around the 2" circle. TL is 10:1, the extra pieces on the inside front are there purely to allow for the big champher (ie not required if you don't champher). The inside of the cut out needs to be champhered (not shown in the 3D)
dave
attached is a sketch of one way to do it. Dimensions are PFA (only a guidline) and confguired around the 2" circle. TL is 10:1, the extra pieces on the inside front are there purely to allow for the big champher (ie not required if you don't champher). The inside of the cut out needs to be champhered (not shown in the 3D)
dave
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dzzmiller said:
We got one of the Keigas from Madisound. Its max of 150 Hz is probably as high as you want to take a common sub. Stock the HF amps suck, but it turns out there is a compressor board in there. Once you rip that out (bypass it) it gets a whole lot better (still not stellar).
dave
Okay so not to beat this to death but:
How's this design look? I'm toying with using the Dayton SD215-88 subwoofer and Dayton RS100-8 FR. All that's left should be port tuning?
Sorry to lean so heavily on yours planet10
How's this design look? I'm toying with using the Dayton SD215-88 subwoofer and Dayton RS100-8 FR. All that's left should be port tuning?
Sorry to lean so heavily on yours planet10
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