Sachiko Build Thread!

[woodturner-fran]

Hi all,


well as promised earlier, elsewhere I thought I would start a thread to document my upcoming sachiko build. The history behind this is that I have a set of FE206 sitting around here for more than a year now waiting for me to do something with them. I don't have a huge amount of speaker building experience, but I have done a pair of fonkens for some FE127EN and some angular spirals for a set of jordan JX92s for a friend.

So I hope to start gathering up the birch ply in the next week or so...

Heres some finished ones:







Build plans are here (just scroll down):


frigal horn sachiko plans



My first question to the masters: The plans list 19mm (3/4) ply, but all ply around here is now always 18mm - so I need to worry about that?



Fran

[ljk11]

How big is your room ?
These speakers are very efficient, they need a fairly large room though and the specs are not for close use to walls
if you have a sub, chances are it wont be able to keep up with these

[planet10]

Originally posted by woodturner-fran
My first question to the masters: The plans list 19mm (3/4) ply, but all ply around here is now always 18mm - so I need to worry about that?

You only need to worry about the actual length of pieces that will need to be 1 mm longer at one end or the other to meet the next piece.

dave

[woodturner-fran]

The room is large and they will be about 5-6ft out from the side walls but closer to the back walls. They can be upto about 6-7ft apart.

Thanks Dave - so adjust the internals to give the same internal volume.


Fran

[Scottmoose]

You can, if you wish to abuse yourself. But what Dave said was simply make sure the pieces are actually long enough to meet each other, so there are no gaps. Most material isn't accurate to +/-1mm, shameful to relate, and there aren't all that many DIYers who are that precise either. It's not that much of a big deal.

[quadtech]

A few observations -

1. I could not find anything in the Sachiko design which could depend
on the 1mm difference in thickness. I mean something which could
cause gaps.
Some internal cavities/chambers dimensions
may vary 1 or 2mm and I reckon most non-CNC cut builds would have
that much of variance anyway.

2. A pair of Sachikos needs 4 of the "A" pieces, but the cutting plan only
shows 2 pieces. There is room for two more "A"s using
the left over wood in the 1st and 4th sheets.

3. The cutting plan has 5 Def2 deflector pieces - i.e. one extra Def2.
The saved wood can be used to accomodate an "A" piece, so both
additional "A"s can be cut from the first sheet.

[planet10]

Originally posted by quadtech
2. A pair of Sachikos needs 4 of the "A" pieces, but the cutting plan only
shows 2 pieces. There is room for two more "A"s using
the left over wood in the 1st and 4th sheets.

3. The cutting plan has 5 Def2 deflector pieces - i.e. one extra Def2.
The saved wood can be used to accomodate an "A" piece, so both
additional "A"s can be cut from the first sheet.

I fixed 2, but you must have added 3 after i'd gone off to fix 2.

dave

[quadtech]

I fixed 2, but you must have added 3 after i'd gone off to fix 2.

Dave, guilty as charged! I found #3 a few minutes later and edited the original post.

Thanks for the fixes. Is the updated plan put up for download?

- Prasad

[planet10]

Originally posted by quadtech
Is the updated plan put up for download?

yes. With #3 i should be able to optimize the cut a bit better.

dave

[quadtech]

Thanks, Dave.

Another thing I noticed is that the cutting plan for the 2nd and 3rd
sheets (sides and back) is really tight and the allowed kerf is very small.
The critical dimension here is for the width of the back piece (11 3/4").
While cutting, It may be better to start with the back piece first, to avoid
ending up with the back just a bit under width.