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Old 17th March 2009, 05:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by kin0kin
Also, I was looking at the Saburo and Sachiko's dimension. They seem to be pretty much identical besides the baffle, and spacing in between the two horns. I'm assuming that dimension for the internal pieces dimension are exactly identical (again, besides the width).
The only difference in the side cross-section of Saburo & Sachiko is a reduction in the common rearward path is a 1/4" shorter (2.25 vrs 2.5") in Saburo (and all the fallout that Chris pointed out from that reduction -- Scott still works in inches, and i haven't yet taken the dimensions out to a 1/10 mm (as requested by Chris))

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Old 17th March 2009, 05:41 PM   #12
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Ant to build Mikasa/Saburo but.....

Quote:
Originally posted by twitchie


I know they're cheaper than Home Depot on many items, but did you confirm with them that it's BB and not just Baltic Ply, because that's about what a 3/4" sheet of ply will cost you at HD.
I found that the 'birch plywood' from HD was nothing like 'Baltic Birch'- lots of voids, and fewer laminations/plys as well. So I recommend you do as twitchie suggests and double-check- a void can ruin your whole day of woodworking if it pops up at the wrong spot. I have even heard stories about hidden voids buzzing in finished boxes.

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Old 17th March 2009, 06:05 PM   #13
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Also, don't forget that with the number of folds and corners in the Nagaoka style designs, a difference of material thickness from the nominal 3/4" in which the Saburo etc are drawn, to 18mm that you'll likely encounter with metric dimensioned sheets (i.e. Russian / Baltic Birch for sure, and others as well) can cause some big surprises if you use the cut list dimensions.

surprises, as in some parts are too short, and some critical clearances the wrong size - not the best for a BLH




It's a pain in the a$$ to have to check and modify drawings to accommodate differences in material thickness, but far less frustrating than the alternative.

measure once - cut twice

been there, worn out the T-shirt
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Old 17th March 2009, 07:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by chrisb
Also, don't forget that with the number of folds and corners in the Nagaoka style designs, a difference of material thickness from the nominal 3/4" in which the Saburo etc are drawn, to 18mm that you'll likely encounter with metric dimensioned sheets (i.e. Russian / Baltic Birch for sure, and others as well) can cause some big surprises if you use the cut list dimensions.

surprises, as in some parts are too short, and some critical clearances the wrong size - not the best for a BLH
The 1 mm extra on the horn path height won't make a difference sonically, but this does point out that the thickness of each piece of material you buy should be checked. Chris has told stories of varying thickness of material sold as the same thickness... we also had a lift of BB where the thickness of each panel wasn't consistent.

The message being measure all way round your panel material and then figure detailed dimensions.

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Old 17th March 2009, 10:14 PM   #15
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I'm afraid my stubborn clininging to the Imperial system causes problems... sorry. I'll try to go metric in future -I hate it with a deep and abiding passion, but I'll have a go.
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Old 17th March 2009, 10:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scottmoose
I'm afraid my stubborn clininging to the Imperial system causes problems... sorry. I'll try to go metric in future -I hate it with a deep and abiding passion, but I'll have a go.

just 'cause it was invented by the French?

I adjusted to it late in life myself, due to working in a commercial shop that happens to use German and Italian CNC woodworking machinery, both of which only understand the metric system


and it's just as easy to fudge up in metric as any other system

I thought you said cm, not mm .....
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Old 18th March 2009, 01:32 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scottmoose
I'm afraid my stubborn clininging to the Imperial system causes problems... sorry. I'll try to go metric in future -I hate it with a deep and abiding passion, but I'll have a go.
Scott,

We got a good system going... no point in changing now. What we should do is add a section on things to watch out for...

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Old 18th March 2009, 10:47 AM   #18
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I've posted this before, but if I have metric plans, I use a metric ruler and if I have English plans, I use an English ruler. I could care less what dimensions the plans use. Because I deal mostly with North Americans, I publish plans in English. It seems that we colonials find inches/feet/yards/miles more logical than mm/cm/m/km(!).

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Old 18th March 2009, 11:34 AM   #19
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Well, this younker from England still finds Imperial more logical than metric (even though I was brought up under metric), so you're not alone...

Fair enough Dave -I'll stick to the old ways. Would this be the correct time to break into a rousing chorus of 'Rule Britania?'
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Old 18th March 2009, 03:48 PM   #20
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My point was that a novice builder might get more than a bit confused when some parts cut to a list based on thicker material don't fit.

Including the stepped mouth deflectors, the Saburo/Hiro/Sachiko series have 34 parts per enclosure, and there are 11 90 degree corners per path.

It wouldn't take long for a difference of material thickness of only 1mm (.04") to compound to a more significant number - significant in that parts cut exactly as per the list will be too short to retain the clearances around all the folds.

The Saburo is a particularly tight cutting pattern - if using a single slanted deflector panel, you can yield one enclosure from a 4x8ft sheet - with not much left over to recut more than a couple of the shortest parts.
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