Good looking drivers. These seem to be a new version of the speaker.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-847
Judging from the QTS these should work well in a MLTL. What kind of efficiency could I expect from them in a optimized MLTL?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-847
Judging from the QTS these should work well in a MLTL. What kind of efficiency could I expect from them in a optimized MLTL?
The reason I ask about these is I would like to use these drivers for some speakers for a little mini system I plan on building for my worse half. I would like to use them crossed over @15K - 18K with a 1st order along with some Morel MDT - 22s. The question is how big do I want the cabinets which is why I asking the experts here. My forte is electronics, not speaker building. So I also plan on buying some premade boxes for these. So bump.
Who was it that built a small vented box for some of these within the last year. I thought I had written down the particulars of this enclosure or earmarked it somewhere but I can't find it. Was it Godzilla? Maybe I should PM him. Anyone remember the link? I think the vent was on the back of the box.
http://www.zillaaudio.com/tb-1320-bamboo.htm
>>> I plan on building for my worse half. I would like to use them crossed over @15K - 18K with a 1st order along with some Morel MDT - 22s.
LOL... would that be your wife?
I think the Morel tweeter would be a great match for this driver!
Godzilla
>>> I plan on building for my worse half. I would like to use them crossed over @15K - 18K with a 1st order along with some Morel MDT - 22s.
LOL... would that be your wife?
I think the Morel tweeter would be a great match for this driver!
Godzilla
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Thanks Godzirra, thats the link I was looking for. I may try a narrower baffle sealed .22cf first then vented and then a tweeter to see how I like it in progression. Sometimes tweeter fizz aggrevates me and the voices come back.
How did you arrive at the box dimensions, did the size of the dimensional lumber play into your decisions?
Would a 10:1 tapered TL like in Tysen work or help these drivers?
How did you arrive at the box dimensions, did the size of the dimensional lumber play into your decisions?
Would a 10:1 tapered TL like in Tysen work or help these drivers?
>>> How did you arrive at the box dimensions, did the size of the dimensional lumber play into your decisions?
Yes, like nearly every build i do! I rely on the accuracy of standard sized lumber to minimize cuts and maximize quality. I don't own a saw other than a hand saw for cutting holes. I use WinISD to figure port size and usually with a bit of bass boost. I've produced a few clunkers this way especially when using low Qts drivers... the bamboo TB has a friendly Qts for me. I'm certain more can be wrung from this driver but the small ported design works especially well for me in my small den. I have boards cut and lined up against the wall in my basement for nearly two years to build a BIB for this driver. Maybe one day i will build it.
Would you use a side firing woofer in a Tyson style box?
>>> Thanks Godzirra...
LOL!
My pleasure,
Godzilla
Yes, like nearly every build i do! I rely on the accuracy of standard sized lumber to minimize cuts and maximize quality. I don't own a saw other than a hand saw for cutting holes. I use WinISD to figure port size and usually with a bit of bass boost. I've produced a few clunkers this way especially when using low Qts drivers... the bamboo TB has a friendly Qts for me. I'm certain more can be wrung from this driver but the small ported design works especially well for me in my small den. I have boards cut and lined up against the wall in my basement for nearly two years to build a BIB for this driver. Maybe one day i will build it.
Would you use a side firing woofer in a Tyson style box?
>>> Thanks Godzirra...
LOL!
My pleasure,
Godzilla
I'm not planning on duplicating the Tysen design or a FAST with these rather some small sattelites to maybe use with a sub on my desk where I use my computer and listen to music while I do. Alone first and then figure out some bass support as needed. It will surely be a work in progress and change as I go.
Tysen is on my extended short list of items to build but I'll do it to whatever specs its been evolved to when the time comes and maybe even using genuine Planet10 EnAbled drivers.
Is the W4-1320 close enough in the TS parameters that matter to a more popular driver we have enclosure designs for? I'm getting ready to build the vented boxes Godzilla designed but might go with a TL if it would be better. The FF85 sure seems to perform much better in the 10:1 Dave designed.
Is the W4-1320 close enough in the TS parameters that matter to a more popular driver we have enclosure designs for? I'm getting ready to build the vented boxes Godzilla designed but might go with a TL if it would be better. The FF85 sure seems to perform much better in the 10:1 Dave designed.
I´ve built a pair of BiB´s on these speakers following the BiB calculator on http://www.zillaaudio.com/bib-calculator.htm. They are beautiful in the midrange for vocals. Ok bass for their size but I am troubled by to much high frequency. Have tried various damping of the cabinets using acoustic stuffing. The cabinets are built of 3/4 inch (18mm) meranti plywood.
Any suggestions?
Heelp!
Any suggestions?
Heelp!
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What dimensions did you end up with? Box volume, vent size/ length etc. ? My plan right now is to make a .22 cuft enclosure with a 2" x 5" vent like Godzilla did but with different outside dimensions, maybe 5.5" wide, 7" deep and 20 something inches tall with the vent on the bottom facing the floor/desktop. It will be on little feet so the vent can vent.
Banboo BiB picture
I built these out of 18mm meranti plywood. Miter cut them, taped them up and folded everything together with polyurethane glue.
A Magnepan SMGa in the background
and my DIY tube amp prototype on the floor.
I built these out of 18mm meranti plywood. Miter cut them, taped them up and folded everything together with polyurethane glue.
A Magnepan SMGa in the background
and my DIY tube amp prototype on the floor.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thats a great idea to have no crossovers in that wide range. Can you tell much of a difference with or with out the tweeter? I'm sure bass will become an issue after awhile but I'll cross that bridge when I burn it or find it or, you know.
What size is the enclosure the W4 is in, vent diameter/length etc? You got any pictures? I will be procuring some 1" x 6" lumber today to make my boxes. The plan is for the outside width to be 5.5" x depth 7" x 24" tall with feet cut into the lower part of the panels. 2" x 5" vent on the bottom panel facing floor/table. Much thanks Mighty Godzirra.
How important is driver location on a box like this? I'd like to center it on the baffle top to bottom and maybe offset left or right just a touch.
W4-1320
See Picture. The cabinet was origonal considered as a Transmission Line but I wanted bass down to 30hz so I have decided to use a seperate sub woofer. (Note that the crossover to the ribbon tweeter is at 11khz not 9 as stated. I did try it without the ribbon tweeter and it was just fine. I can hear no difference at my age but my 18 year old son can just hear a small change. The cabinet has a partition to limit the size to 2 litres. Note that I'm crossing over at 160hz with a 24db slope.
Picture attached
See Picture. The cabinet was origonal considered as a Transmission Line but I wanted bass down to 30hz so I have decided to use a seperate sub woofer. (Note that the crossover to the ribbon tweeter is at 11khz not 9 as stated. I did try it without the ribbon tweeter and it was just fine. I can hear no difference at my age but my 18 year old son can just hear a small change. The cabinet has a partition to limit the size to 2 litres. Note that I'm crossing over at 160hz with a 24db slope.
Picture attached
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