CNC Cut Layered Speaker Kits

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frugal-phile™
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atilsley said:
I remember first looking at that and thought what a wonderful design and manufacturing process it was. But then, someone said that that was an earlier version, and the layered CNC process was not being used...replaced by a more conventional process.

It was more a case of finding the drawings. A couple guys are now working on getting things hammered together to make Austin A166 III a reality for diyers.

Tony's work was so instrumental in pushing these techniques forward that the whole process is known (officially now that it has been printed in aXp) as 'layertoning".

The 1st thing Tony presented to us was his inspired version of the Mauhorn (see attached)

dave
 

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dzzmiller said:
Great stuff.

It would be interesting to compare mdf to gluing up solid wood and carving out the void. The glue-up could leave large voids to lessen the routers work.

http://www.boenicke-audio.ch/W18.html


Very smart...I'm jealous of that guy's work shop....!

I guess my focus has been to create a simple, yet elegant, approach. Take the Hedlund for example. This is a difficult speaker to build using traditional methods. Yet I've got a drawing which shows the horn being built with approx 9 slices....all the one shape...including the legs. So, for a DIYer, it's a dream.

The other thing I'm considering is using my cutouts to create a mould of the internals, and possibly playing with a solid resin block...eg boat building technique. The two main reasons:

1. sanding the MDF is relatively hard work...hence speeding up the already quick build process

2. the possible musical gain using an altrnate finish

Food for thought....

Andrew
 
dzzmiller said:

It would be interesting to compare mdf to gluing up solid wood and carving out the void. The glue-up could leave large voids to lessen the routers work.

http://www.boenicke-audio.ch/W18.html


Man, that looks Bee-u-tee-full! A solid block of wood may not be best for the sub-tropical QLD climate tho - hot, with a wide range of humidity.

As for the Hedlund - I have always liked the aesthetics of that speaker, tho I don't know how its performance would compare to some of the more recent designs in the public domain (thanx Scott and Dave!). Hmmm, a refined version - Hedland 2 - could be nice. Ah, dreams...

Cheers
 
I reckon my next diy speakers will involve cnc cut enclosures, it'll take out most of the effort involved in construction and result in a lot more accuracy! And i'm also guessing it wouldn't be difficult for beginner diyer's, the hard part would be drawing up the plan, then it's just a matter of taking it to a wood supply shop that has a cnc router. Everyone should be doing it!
 
The solid wood idea would work with a hand router too. Some people might prefer carving to carpentry. Each possible technique can produce results not easily achievable any other way.
Solid would would also require a lot less operator intervention per speaker. And would fit on a small CNC machine.
 
planet10 said:


It was more a case of finding the drawings. A couple guys are now working on getting things hammered together to make Austin A166 III a reality for diyers.

Tony's work was so instrumental in pushing these techniques forward that the whole process is known (officially now that it has been printed in aXp) as 'layertoning".

The 1st thing Tony presented to us was his inspired version of the Mauhorn (see attached)

dave


:radar:
You sure have a good record keeping there Dave!

Where was this aXp "printed"?!? I'm sure missing out
:bigeyes:

Thanks for the reminder; completely forgot my 1st layered Mauhorn is sitting in the shed
 
atilsley said:

1. sanding the MDF is relatively hard work...hence speeding up the already quick build process

Oooooohhhhhhh, don't sand MDF (I know most DIYr's do so anyway). The point of the MDF surface is to take a smooth finish in just a few steps, most economically ONE STEP. If the part has been machined, all you should have to do is clean it to remove the dust left over from CNC'ing. If the CAD drawings are correct you shouldn't have to use any fillers, etc.

Plywood, otoh, has whiskers -- and changes in humidity and temperature can require sanding.
 
jackinnj said:


Oooooohhhhhhh, don't sand MDF (I know most DIYr's do so anyway). The point of the MDF surface is to take a smooth finish in just a few steps, most economically ONE STEP. If the part has been machined, all you should have to do is clean it to remove the dust left over from CNC'ing. If the CAD drawings are correct you shouldn't have to use any fillers, etc.

Plywood, otoh, has whiskers -- and changes in humidity and temperature can require sanding.


OTOH, a light scuff sanding of the tempered surface layer of paint grade MDF could give you better glue adhesion, which can particularly be a problem with the number of layers involved in these fabrications.

Changes in temperature / humidity can affect MDF as well.


The smoothness of the CNC'd machined edges is dependent on more than just the accuracy of the drawings (i.e. sharpness of tooling & feed rate)
 
chrisb said:

Changes in temperature / humidity can affect MDF as well.

Indeed, production of machined MDF materials run during a humid, hot august day the results are much different than a mild day in September --

Grades of MDF vary all over the place with respect to the moisture content, fiber size, fiber consistency, resin content, outgassing. What you pick up at Lowe's or Home Depot just happened to be least expensive when the buyer asked for offerings.
 
atilsley said:


I do recall now building one of these layered ones back in 2005. Had some photos of a "mini Hedlund" using a FE126e in James Melhuish's fullrangedriver.com gallery, but unfortunately, the gallery is no longer working.

comments by Ron C about Hedlund

http://www.fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=211

built 5/23/2005

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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