Greets!
This one is the only one I'm aware or and at least one person said it had better highs to boot, but unfortunately not available in the USA/Canada AFAIK.
FWIW, the original CSS FR125S has performed quite well in some old 40-1354 MLTLs, though don't know about the current version. Anyway, worst case is the BSC ckt. may need changing or a little series R to better 'fill' the big pipe if it's not used.
GM
This one is the only one I'm aware or and at least one person said it had better highs to boot, but unfortunately not available in the USA/Canada AFAIK.
FWIW, the original CSS FR125S has performed quite well in some old 40-1354 MLTLs, though don't know about the current version. Anyway, worst case is the BSC ckt. may need changing or a little series R to better 'fill' the big pipe if it's not used.
GM
I ran some sims on a few drivers I found.
Yes the FE167E will work very well. The baffle of the Straight Pipe is 6.5" wide and so is the width of the driver. The new driver cutout will be 5.75. That will be tight.
The Tang Band W5-704D will work well, but will surely need a tweeter. I have not tried this driver, but for $25 a piece, I think I may get a pair.
The Alpair 10 will work. Of course, this driver is an order of magnitude more expensive.
There are possibly others, but a decent cheap 5" full ranger is hard to find.
Bob
Yes the FE167E will work very well. The baffle of the Straight Pipe is 6.5" wide and so is the width of the driver. The new driver cutout will be 5.75. That will be tight.
The Tang Band W5-704D will work well, but will surely need a tweeter. I have not tried this driver, but for $25 a piece, I think I may get a pair.
The Alpair 10 will work. Of course, this driver is an order of magnitude more expensive.
There are possibly others, but a decent cheap 5" full ranger is hard to find.
Bob
Greets!
Yes you did:
>Details please.
====
40-1354 modded by trimming off the gasket flush with the metal frame lip,
3/4" thick polyfil stuffed between cone/whizzer and held in place with a
rubberband, epoxied magnet assembly to the frame, added a foil star to the
center of the dustcap (much good natured wise-cracking over this), damped
the frame with gutter/drain/roof foil backed repair tape, used resilient
caulk to install 3/4" polyfil squares to the inside of the frame legs, and
added thinned rubber cement on bell lip of the whizzer after softening them
with my fingers.
Cabs are made from planed down planks (0.62") from a 150+yr old barn, and
hard as nails, so no stiffeners were used. This helped immensely with
maintaining some semblance of tonal balance from LF to HF. Inside dims
(i.d.) are 47.88" h x 6.93" w x 5.69" d. Drivers are mirror image and 37.25"
i.d. up from bottom, 3.03" i.d. over, with the 2" i.d. dia x 2"L vent on the
same vertical center and 21.31" i.d. up. Using 0.25lbs/ft^3 of R-19
fiberglass house insulation required 0.43lbs/speaker with 0.25lbs stuffed
from top down to the driver, one wall and back lined with a 2" thick layer
opposite it, and the balance stuffed down to just above the vent.
Since I figured they would position the speakers well away from any walls, I
velcroed an 8.13" square of 3/4" polyfil over the driver/baffle with a hole
cut in it to expose just the whizzer/dustcap (a real pain to cut neatly,
which I failed at). With it in place, the LAUD measurement revealed a <
+/-3dB FR from 60-12kHz, with an F3 = ~40Hz. Without it, there was a
~1k-5kHz broadband peak in the response, so it is an effective acoustic
notch filter in this application with minimal affect on the LF/HF. IOW, an
acoustic means of baffle step compensation.
Since these are front flush mounted, I beveled out the backside of the
baffle opening to reduce reflections off it. I used 8-32 T-nuts and Phillips
head machine screws to mount the drivers, and rope caulking for gasketing.
Terminals at the bottom rear are cheap/simple screw connectors for ring
tongue connectors. Wiring is 4ft of 14ga solid copper pulled from 14/2 NM-B
in-wall house wire and twisted together by clamping at one end and chucking
them in a drill. The stripped ends were squeezed flat in a vise and soldered
at each end with 2% silver bearing solder.
These were built for a friend whose hearing above 10kHz is gone so no super
tweeter is used (nor the polyfil filter due to his room/location), though I
highly recommend adding one, and mounting the driver from the rear with the
front of the baffle opening radiused in lieu of front mounted/rear beveled
if the rather unsightly polyfil filter isn't used.
GM
-----
>That was a great description, now all I need is an old barn (I've already
got the hearing loss).
=====
Thanks! I've been wondering what a decent substitute would be so I
measured/calculated its density and it turns out that many hardwood planks
could be used, so if you can acquire any of these 1x8 boards planed down to
5/8" thick......
Hard Maple
Red Oak
Teak
White Ash (now this would be stunning)
Hard Mahogany
French Walnut
GM
Yes you did:
>Details please.
====
40-1354 modded by trimming off the gasket flush with the metal frame lip,
3/4" thick polyfil stuffed between cone/whizzer and held in place with a
rubberband, epoxied magnet assembly to the frame, added a foil star to the
center of the dustcap (much good natured wise-cracking over this), damped
the frame with gutter/drain/roof foil backed repair tape, used resilient
caulk to install 3/4" polyfil squares to the inside of the frame legs, and
added thinned rubber cement on bell lip of the whizzer after softening them
with my fingers.
Cabs are made from planed down planks (0.62") from a 150+yr old barn, and
hard as nails, so no stiffeners were used. This helped immensely with
maintaining some semblance of tonal balance from LF to HF. Inside dims
(i.d.) are 47.88" h x 6.93" w x 5.69" d. Drivers are mirror image and 37.25"
i.d. up from bottom, 3.03" i.d. over, with the 2" i.d. dia x 2"L vent on the
same vertical center and 21.31" i.d. up. Using 0.25lbs/ft^3 of R-19
fiberglass house insulation required 0.43lbs/speaker with 0.25lbs stuffed
from top down to the driver, one wall and back lined with a 2" thick layer
opposite it, and the balance stuffed down to just above the vent.
Since I figured they would position the speakers well away from any walls, I
velcroed an 8.13" square of 3/4" polyfil over the driver/baffle with a hole
cut in it to expose just the whizzer/dustcap (a real pain to cut neatly,
which I failed at). With it in place, the LAUD measurement revealed a <
+/-3dB FR from 60-12kHz, with an F3 = ~40Hz. Without it, there was a
~1k-5kHz broadband peak in the response, so it is an effective acoustic
notch filter in this application with minimal affect on the LF/HF. IOW, an
acoustic means of baffle step compensation.
Since these are front flush mounted, I beveled out the backside of the
baffle opening to reduce reflections off it. I used 8-32 T-nuts and Phillips
head machine screws to mount the drivers, and rope caulking for gasketing.
Terminals at the bottom rear are cheap/simple screw connectors for ring
tongue connectors. Wiring is 4ft of 14ga solid copper pulled from 14/2 NM-B
in-wall house wire and twisted together by clamping at one end and chucking
them in a drill. The stripped ends were squeezed flat in a vise and soldered
at each end with 2% silver bearing solder.
These were built for a friend whose hearing above 10kHz is gone so no super
tweeter is used (nor the polyfil filter due to his room/location), though I
highly recommend adding one, and mounting the driver from the rear with the
front of the baffle opening radiused in lieu of front mounted/rear beveled
if the rather unsightly polyfil filter isn't used.
GM
-----
>That was a great description, now all I need is an old barn (I've already
got the hearing loss).
=====
Thanks! I've been wondering what a decent substitute would be so I
measured/calculated its density and it turns out that many hardwood planks
could be used, so if you can acquire any of these 1x8 boards planed down to
5/8" thick......
Hard Maple
Red Oak
Teak
White Ash (now this would be stunning)
Hard Mahogany
French Walnut
GM
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