My Frugel-Horn Build - Page 3 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Full Range

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 20th February 2009, 05:58 PM   #21
diyAudio Member
 
chuyler1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Nice work man! I can't wait to hear your listening impressions...but keep in mind, it's all about room placement, especially until you get those deflectors installed. I'm looking forward to your deflector build as I might have to follow your lead.

BTW, I installed these terminals on my frugel because they were easy and have a nice gasket. Didn't realize they were a good choice for sonic reasons.

Click the image to open in full size.

Oh, and btw, I can't hear any wire rattling inside the horn. If you're concerned about that, just wrap the wire with some foam weather stripping similar to what they do inside the doors of cars.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th February 2009, 06:03 PM   #22
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Quote:
Originally posted by chuyler1

Oh, and btw, I can't hear any wire rattling inside the horn. If you're concerned about that, just wrap the wire with some foam weather stripping similar to what they do inside the doors of cars.
well, as he said, the boxes are already glued up, so access gets a bit tricky for anything other than a short direct path, but for future reference, I'd embed the wire in either silicone or hot melt glue.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you?
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th February 2009, 06:38 PM   #23
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Toronto, Canada
I used tuc tape (red tape used for vapour barrier seams in construction) to keep my wires from rattling and tuc tape won't degrade over time.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th February 2009, 06:50 PM   #24
diyAudio Member
 
italynstylion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Dallas, Tx.
The CSS Trio8 was suggested to me for use as a subwoofer as well. It's power handling is more in line with what my amp has to offer and it has the advantage in cone area as well. It's also cheaper than the SDX7....which is always a frugal plus

It's not likely that these will be corner loaded but i'll certainly try.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th February 2009, 07:30 PM   #25
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally posted by italynstylion
The CSS Trio8 was suggested to me for use as a subwoofer as well. It's power handling is more in line with what my amp has to offer and it has the advantage in cone area as well. It's also cheaper than the SDX7....which is always a frugal plus

It's not likely that these will be corner loaded but i'll certainly try.
If not corner loaded you lose ultimate bass extension (ie probably from 50-80 Hz or so) and the deflector becomes more important for the bass (but i figure the ripple reduction is the most important).

The Trio8 is a fairly recent addition to Bob's stable. I just got 4 to play with/ For many of the things we are doing, the SDX7s extension to near 1kHz and then a smooth fall-off is important... Firing into a wall that is moot, and the Trio8 should have sufficient extension to integrate well. The Trio8 seems to be able to move about twice as much air, but needs almost twice the volume... somewhere between 20 & 30 litres per box (sealed). If you are out from the corner, the increased depth of the deflector becomes less of an issue. Sealed is an asset with this kind of loading but you do need to get the system Q down below 0.6. Attached is a sim of a 25 litre sealed box with Trio8. With driver loading the corner/wall junction, mirroring gives you close to an effective 4 8" drivers and should be flat to below 25 Hz.

I'd recommend a stereo amplifier and not a plate amp. This one has caught our eye -- i have a deal going to get one, but haven't yet. <http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-812>

Click the image to open in full size.

At an estimated 40 W into 8 ohms stereo, you'd probably want 2. For most situations with a push-push pair of woofers running 4 ohms, the 75 w is probably sufficient -- good current capability more important then ultimate power. The built in low pass (and a useful 3rd order) is nice.

The frugal-phile approach would be to scare up the cheap 70s/80s japanese receiver or integrated and use it's power amp with a PLLXO, or build a set of high voltage chip amps with lots of capacitance (ie for 8 ohms, bass only duty).

Trying to find room in the deflector to properly mount a plate amp is an attractive notion, but uses up already precious volume (and besides the inside of a loudspeaker is not the best environs for an amplifier)

And if you already have a 500 w plate amp, keep in mind that too much power is better than too little when it comes to speaker survival.

dave
Attached Images
File Type: gif trio8-x2-sealed-fr.gif (15.4 KB, 765 views)
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th February 2009, 07:47 PM   #26
diyAudio Member
 
italynstylion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Dallas, Tx.
Dave, thanks for the response. I already have the O-Audio 500watt plate amp. I decided when I got it that i wanted to mount it in it's own free standing little box so it wasn't integrated into any speaker enclosure.

I did this for a couple reasons. It runs a pair of Peerless XXLS 12" subs that each have their own enclosures. Since they are in separate enclosures, putting the amp in it's own little unit allowed me to make the sub enclosures absolutely identical. It also allows me to use the amp to power whatever I want. It's portable and i even integrated a small computer fan to help keep it cool. It sucks in cool air from the bottom and blows the hot air out the top.

Click the image to open in full size.



Keeping all this in mind, I'm really not planning to buy another amp. Since I wont have to mount a plate amp, I plan on making the deflectors/sub enclosures perfectly identical. I believe I could squeeze 30L of sealed enclosure space out of each of the deflectors easily. Both of the Trio8's wired in parallel would produce a final load of 4 ohms on my amp and provide 250RMS to each sub. I think this would be the best approach for the sub stage. Do you agree?
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th February 2009, 08:13 PM   #27
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally posted by italynstylion

Do you agree?
Given the current set of resources, sounds like the best plan.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2009, 04:30 AM   #28
diyAudio Member
 
italynstylion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Dallas, Tx.
Today I stained the cabinets and the suprabaffles. I think I'm going to use the poyacrilic sealer/finish on them individually before mounting the supra baffle. I think it will be easier to paint on this way and will yield a much better finish. That's what I'm hoping anyway...

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2009, 05:03 AM   #29
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
You really should have a much more dramatic radius on that supraBaffle.... and ideally a decreasing radius as you get to the edge -- it will take a big rasp & lots of work..

dave
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ben-sb.jpg (14.1 KB, 435 views)
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2009, 01:38 PM   #30
diyAudio Member
 
italynstylion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Dallas, Tx.
I know. I don't have one though so this is how they are going to be. I know it's not optimal.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:20 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2