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Old 3rd February 2009, 08:30 PM   #1
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Default Design feasibility

I've been looking at the TB drivers recently and decided I want to try to build speakers. However, space is an issue so I am looking at smaller footprint bookshelf sizes or micro sizes. I am looking at 3 inch full range drivers. I was wondering if I could build a cabinet with a full range pointing out the front near the top, then a woofer on the bottom facing down. The speakers would be raised on feet about 1 inch off the hardwood table. Would i be able to do a speaker / subwoofer hybrid combo? Would I have to cut a hole in the back for better venting since the cabinet is probably pretty small?

Also, how does plexiglass work for speaker building?

thanks
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Old 3rd February 2009, 09:04 PM   #2
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I did some more research, I found a 3" full range speaker and a 5.25" woofer with the same volume requirements according to my research. what do you guys think?

They both require 0.16cu ft. do I have to double up the volume or can I keep it at 0.16. that is exactly the size i want to build
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Old 6th February 2009, 10:45 AM   #3
gooki is offline gooki  New Zealand
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Double the volume, and split the box into two (equal) chambers.

In general the idea seems to be worth a shot.
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Old 6th February 2009, 10:57 AM   #4
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Another option (that would still require doubling the cabinet volume but you don't have to split it in two) is to buy 2 of the 3" full ranges for each speaker and use a filter coil on one of them so it only assists in the bass region.
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Old 6th February 2009, 02:33 PM   #5
HK26147 is offline HK26147  United States
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Quote:
Also, how does plexiglass work for speaker building?
It splits and cracks very easily. It doesn't handle stress well. Simliar to glass in many aspects, but not as delicate. It has to be cut with fine blades at the right speed or it melts as it cuts. It helps to use masking tape at the cut line and pre-score with a utility knife blade.
It also scratchs easily.
Being a "pure" material vs wood products ( mix of fibers and glue ), acoustically they are very different.
I wouldn't use it unless it was for a "demo" visualization sort of thing.
( my opinion )
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Old 6th February 2009, 02:43 PM   #6
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It's actually very easy to clear up cut lines and remove scratches in perspex (plexiglass), just heat it gently with a hot air gun and cut lines clears up and scratches disappear completely.
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Old 6th February 2009, 02:47 PM   #7
HK26147 is offline HK26147  United States
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I have also used jewelers rouge, and buffing compounds.
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Old 6th February 2009, 02:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by HK26147
I have also used jewelers rouge, and buffing compounds.
Too much hassle. Just heat it for 3-5 seconds with a hot air gun, and any scratch will disappear completely. It will look like it had never been scratched.
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Old 6th February 2009, 03:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Saturnus
It's actually very easy to clear up cut lines and remove scratches in perspex (plexiglass), just heat it gently with a hot air gun and cut lines clears up and scratches disappear completely.
That's pretty interesting. An easy fix for what has excluded plexiglass from my material list until now ... thanks!
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Old 6th February 2009, 03:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by kristleifur


That's pretty interesting. An easy fix for what has excluded plexiglass from my material list until now ... thanks!
The trick works on CDs too (not recordables or DVDs, only regular music CDs or CD ROMs) but because the information is in the polycarbonate you're actually melting one side of it while trying not to meat the other side so you have to be very very careful about the amount of heat, and you should press it firmly against a completely flat metal surface like a frying pan when you do it. Test it on a CD you can't read because it's too scratched or one that you don't intend to keep anyways to get a handle on how much heat it needs. Naturally it doesn't work on deep scratches on CDs as that would require so much heat that information recorded in the polycarbonate would disappear as well.
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