I've started my first project...

[Bigun]

We now have the veneer on ! - it's definitely a bit scrappy around the edges but it's not bad for a first project.

[chrisb]

Well done

for cleaning out the veneer and glue in the port slots I use a PSA sanding disc stuck to a painting stir stick

the weekend's coming, so lift a few, eh?

[Bigun]

that's the plan !

- what is recommended for finishing Birch Veneer in your house ?

[chrisb]

Of course every one has their own favorite material / technique, so it's really up to you, but considering the time it takes to build and veneer a pair of these, I tend to want to finish them as quickly as possible.

Normally I'm using cherry, walnut or mahogany veneer, so it's maybe some stain, then 3 or 4 quick coats of sprayed on post catalyzed nitro cellulose lacquer. With proper air flow, all 4 coats and the intervening sanding can be completed in a day in the booth.

If spraying any product, be sure to stuff the driver opening with newspaper or shop rags to prevent contamination of damping material. (since my driver cutouts are rebated for flush mounting, I'll mask them off with blue painter's tape)

[Bob Brines]

Birch and cherry are probably the hardest to stain for the novice. They can blotch pretty badly. By all means use a pre-stain treatment before you put a dark stain on birch.

I have a fondness for natural cherry at the moment. Three coats of MinWax tung oil finish looks great.

Bob

[Bigun]

That's a good point about Birch, I hadn't been aware of that when I chose it. Fortunately, I found the pre-stain stuff at Home Depot today but held-off from buying it. I'd have to buy a few different stain colours to really see which one is going to work for me as the silly sample pieces of wood at the store are no good to man nor beast. This would be quite an expense and light finish might also be a good fit for where these will be used so a no-stain approach is an option.

There was some Tung Oil and Danish Oil at the store. Do these avoid the 'blotchy' risk with Birch straight out of the can yet give the wood a nice 'glow' - the sanded Birch is 'too white' as-is ?

In the meantime I've installed some veneer inside the vent openings and some stick-on felt pieces on the inside back of the box opposite the driver. And I'm going to put some 'natural' semi-gloss nickwax final coat on a test piece to see how a light finish would look.

[planet10]

Originally posted by Bob Brines
I have a fondness for natural cherry at the moment.

That is the dominant "colour" around here too.. i am thou just putting some vibrant blue drivers in a red-stained Cherry boxe that looks like it will be a fethching combo.

dave

[Bob Brines]

Just about anything you do to natural birch will give it a yellowish color. That's not necessarily a bad thing, you just have to be aware of it. Wipe on urethane is the easiest. MinWax tung oil finish gives the best results IMO. You might consider shellac. Definitely yellowish, or you could use the "amber" variety which is orangish. Get the newest can of "Bullseye" you can find (cans should be dated ) and cut it 2/1 with alcohol.

Wipe on acrylic will give the whitest finish. Personally, I think acrylic look plastic and fake.

Bob

[Bigun]

I've seen too many mid-scale restaurants with stained plywood trying to look like something else. I've decided to be true to the wood and go for...... Birch. So I'll follow your advice Bob, wipe on urethane it is.