Conical Horn with Markaudio Alpair10 FR - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 21st February 2009, 03:42 PM   #11
Henkjan is offline Henkjan  Netherlands
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Default Re: clarification from newbi

Quote:
Originally posted by madawasca mike
The shaded area at the top left of the right hand view, I take to be the driver mounted. I just wondered since it's shown as a box if that is what is meant or does it simply represent the driver installed onto the baffle.

And lower down on the right above the opening, I take the squiggly
red lines to be suspended dampening held in with a mesh?

I have order the Alpair 10's and hope to make this my first build.
yes that is the position of the driver, so port is at the back (yes, this is important). the shaded grey area is meant to represent where the walls of the cab are lined with felt (8mm thick approx).

the red lines just above the port is damping material (about 50 grams of BAF (the white stuff)). in my case it just stayed in place by putting it there. so the other 50 grams are evenly distributed where the other red lines are, so a bit behind the driver, and some in the top

looking forward to hear your opinion of this design, I hope you like it as much as I do.
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Old 21st February 2009, 05:28 PM   #12
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Default further clairfication and thanks

That's is most helpful and we can begin our project. I am still a bit unsure how the sonofil stays in place in the upper portions of the enclosure since it seems to defy one or the other of Newton's laws. Or
does it get glued?

We hope to also make a smaller pair for a recording studio application at the same time using a MarkAudio design.

I will definitely report back about how it goes.
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Old 22nd February 2009, 01:32 PM   #13
Henkjan is offline Henkjan  Netherlands
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Default Re: further clairfication and thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by madawasca mike
..... I am still a bit unsure how the sonofil stays in place in the upper portions of the enclosure since it seems to defy one or the other of Newton's laws.
I used staples to keep it there, but some glue (spray-on) might also do the trick
(I guess that Acousta-Stuf Polyfill will be the equivalent available on your side of the pond of Sonofil )
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Old 22nd February 2009, 08:46 PM   #14
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Default About ready

Thanks, kinda figured as much, but good to have confirmation. Now I need to find the time.
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Old 24th February 2009, 03:20 PM   #15
Henkjan is offline Henkjan  Netherlands
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Default Re: About ready

Quote:
Originally posted by madawasca mike
....Now I need to find the time.
if you find any, can you send me some?
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Old 25th February 2009, 11:30 AM   #16
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Default start clock

Well for the record, the drivers just arrived yesterday. So now the guilt will stare me in the the face. As for creating time, I think the whole point of the exercise is to create from material reality (wood metal glue) a way to have the ensuing music either stop time or expand it. Or possibly both. Maybe I'll name my project Alchemy!

Do you have a preferred internal wiring that you used in your build?
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Old 25th February 2009, 10:42 PM   #17
Henkjan is offline Henkjan  Netherlands
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Default Re: start clock

Quote:
Originally posted by madawasca mike
Do you have a preferred internal wiring that you used in your build?
nope, I used plain 1˝mm˛ OFC copper, the cheap stuff that I had laying around but feel free to invest in some nice silver wire if you think that will make them even better
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Old 26th February 2009, 07:54 PM   #18
elac310 is offline elac310  France
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Hello Alpair 10FR users,

For your info, I've launched a thread on listening experience (and only that) with this speaker at ALPAIR 10 FR Focus on Listening experience

Feel free to feed it in due course with your own listening experience !
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Old 24th April 2009, 07:53 PM   #19
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Henkjan

Thanks for sharing Conic. Did you flush mount the driver. That 9mm flange are really thick

Thanks

JC
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Old 24th April 2009, 08:51 PM   #20
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madawasa mike...has the guilt got the better of you yet? Interested to know how they sound and your building/tuning/room placement experience.

Going to order some 10s with the intention of building Dr Jim's MLTL or pushing the boat out and going for this one which is probably at the limit of my woodworking skills. Kinda attracted to the horn it as it raises the height of the driver to about where I want it and interested to find out what efficiency benefit it might bring. May mate with a sub for the very bottom end but am a bit anti-sub has never managed to get them to sound "real".

A virtue one will drive them until I have a chance to experiment with some tubes.

Any and all views welcome.
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