Mark Audio Alpair 10 MLTL Design - Page 11

planet10 · 7th August 2009, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GM
L = 57"
CSA = 23.41"^2
zport = 56"
rport = 1"
Lport = 2"

Zdriver?

dave

GM · 7th August 2009, 05:21 PM

Oops! 'Haste makes waste!'

17"

GM

Trapshooter · 7th August 2009, 05:29 PM

Ok, I'll run those numbers when I get home.

Thanks

Jim Griffin · 7th August 2009, 07:33 PM

Trapshooter,

Actually the original design places the driver at approximately ear level for most listeners as is. Plus it gives you room to add a tweeter in the future like I did my 'Jordan with a Ribbon MLTL'. If you wish a little bit more bass, you can lengthen the port tube an inch or two and get a few more Hz on the low end.

Also you can still use the my original design and add a small base to raise the column a bit. This design needs a base if you have pets or kids anyway to make it more stable. Another idea is to just add a false bottom to the bottom of the column to raise it to your prefered height.

Jim

_henry_ · 9th August 2009, 09:18 AM

finally change th alpair 10bass to Fullrange

It does sounds much better.

More balance sound.

Right now running directly to amp.

Sounds promising.

Thank you Jim for the design.

Btw, the port turns out the same as yours, i miscalcualted the port

_henry_ · 9th August 2009, 01:08 PM

Jim,

i tried to put the 1.5mH + 3ohm resistor filter, the sound very muddy and takes out the clear and live sound without filters.

I put the filters on the negative from the binding post, by tie up the inductors to the binding post, then weld the other end of the inductors to the resistor then weld the resistor to the cable runs to the amp.

cheers

Jim Griffin · 9th August 2009, 08:01 PM

Henry,

Let me help you on connecting that baffle step comp circuit. It sounds like you have connected the two components in series and then in series with the amp to speaker side. The BSC network components need to be in parallel and then connected between the amp and speaker.

The parallel connection would be to: Connect one lead of the inductor to one lead of the resistor and then connect the other lead of the coil to the other lead of the resistor. Thus you have a BSC network with the two parts in parallel. Then take this network and place it in the path between one output from your amp and one terminal of the speaker. Let us say that you place the network in the positive leg (assume red). Then do the same thing to the other speaker. For the negative connections (assume black) between the amp and speakers just connect with your normal speaker cable.

What you should hear is a more balanced frequency response with more bass across low frequencies and less treble. Overall the response would be flatter.

Jim

_henry_ · 10th August 2009, 12:04 AM

Jim,

yes i think i mistakenly connected the bsc.

Thank you!

will try when i get home from work.

Cheers
Henry

_henry_ · 11th August 2009, 03:46 PM

Hi Jim,

It work. i followed ur instruction.

Definitely more bass, more punch

But why it seems im hearing missing bassnotes?

Cheers
Henry

planet10 · 11th August 2009, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GM
one of the sims I did awhile back was this one that looked OK:

Here, with a few minor liberties, is a plan for GM's MLTL

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...M-A10-MLTL.pdf

dave

7th August 2009, 05:21 PM	#102
GM diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Chamblee, Ga.	Oops! 'Haste makes waste!' 17" GM __________________ Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.

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7th August 2009, 05:29 PM	#103
Trapshooter diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2009	Ok, I'll run those numbers when I get home. Thanks

7th August 2009, 07:33 PM	#104
Jim Griffin diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Tennessee	Trapshooter, Actually the original design places the driver at approximately ear level for most listeners as is. Plus it gives you room to add a tweeter in the future like I did my 'Jordan with a Ribbon MLTL'. If you wish a little bit more bass, you can lengthen the port tube an inch or two and get a few more Hz on the low end. Also you can still use the my original design and add a small base to raise the column a bit. This design needs a base if you have pets or kids anyway to make it more stable. Another idea is to just add a false bottom to the bottom of the column to raise it to your prefered height. Jim

9th August 2009, 09:18 AM	#105
_henry_ diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Indonesia	finally change th alpair 10bass to Fullrange It does sounds much better. More balance sound. Right now running directly to amp. Sounds promising. Thank you Jim for the design. Btw, the port turns out the same as yours, i miscalcualted the port

9th August 2009, 01:08 PM	#106
_henry_ diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Indonesia	Jim, i tried to put the 1.5mH + 3ohm resistor filter, the sound very muddy and takes out the clear and live sound without filters. I put the filters on the negative from the binding post, by tie up the inductors to the binding post, then weld the other end of the inductors to the resistor then weld the resistor to the cable runs to the amp. cheers

9th August 2009, 08:01 PM	#107
Jim Griffin diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Tennessee	Henry, Let me help you on connecting that baffle step comp circuit. It sounds like you have connected the two components in series and then in series with the amp to speaker side. The BSC network components need to be in parallel and then connected between the amp and speaker. The parallel connection would be to: Connect one lead of the inductor to one lead of the resistor and then connect the other lead of the coil to the other lead of the resistor. Thus you have a BSC network with the two parts in parallel. Then take this network and place it in the path between one output from your amp and one terminal of the speaker. Let us say that you place the network in the positive leg (assume red). Then do the same thing to the other speaker. For the negative connections (assume black) between the amp and speakers just connect with your normal speaker cable. What you should hear is a more balanced frequency response with more bass across low frequencies and less treble. Overall the response would be flatter. Jim

10th August 2009, 12:04 AM	#108
_henry_ diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Indonesia	Jim, yes i think i mistakenly connected the bsc. Thank you! will try when i get home from work. Cheers Henry

11th August 2009, 03:46 PM	#109
_henry_ diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Indonesia	Hi Jim, It work. i followed ur instruction. Definitely more bass, more punch But why it seems im hearing missing bassnotes? Cheers Henry

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