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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Massachusetts
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Just curious if anyone has found anything along the lines of this in their search for cabinet feet. I think they'd be great for my frugelhorns. Unfortunately, Parts Express doesn't sell them anymore.
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/sho...number=249-720 |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Actually, we bought a few pairs of these just before final clearance, and they're stylish enough, but the relatively cheap plastic molding of the mounting bracket is not sufficient duty for massive enclosures. A decent quality solid metal bracket of this style would be nice indeed, but a set could easily cost more than many of the (stock) FR drivers in the cabinets they're supporting.
The rubber feet are soft enough to mark wood or vinyl tile floors, but the brass feet themselves are a very nice, and I think still available separately. They are certainly a welcome alternative to the armor piercing design of many of the available spiked feet - I narrowly avoided marital discord by strategically relocating furniture to cover damage to plush wool carpet in my wife's living room from carelessly moving a pair while testing for ideal listening position (which proved to be in an entirely different room - the cave downstairs.) IIRC they use a non-standard size (but not metric) thread.
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Massachusetts
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So for my frugels you think i might be fine with a set of dayton speaker spikes and then use some scrap wood to extend the base of my frugels a little?
I'm just worried about the cats hopping up or leaning on them and tipping them over. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Well, since you have cats (plural?), you'll no doubt be purchasing kitty litter in bulk. Fill the lower void cavity with litter - easier to do before the second side is attached, but also can be done after the fact by drilling a hole in the bottom and covering with aluminum or steel "mending plate". This will improve both the stability and sink some of the side panel resonances to the floor, improving overall midbass performance.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Massachusetts
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i've thought of that...but I think I'll still need feet extended out an inch or two.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
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Hi,
I have a few sets left but don't know exactly how many. Contact me if you want to pursue this. Bob |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
In which case the PE foot won't give you want you think you need - the actual mounting center of the threaded insert extends less than 12/" from the outside panel. You'd probably be better off with either a simple wider base plate, or outrigger bars with threaded insert fittings for the spikes of your choice. I've used both 1/2" square steel bar drilled and tapped for machine screws, or 1" solid wood with threaded insert fittings.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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