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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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I am looking for the inside dimension of these cabinets. The plans I got with my merrill drivers are very vague. Done quite a bit of research but everyone seems to have a different way to build them. The issue is if you put the sides in between the front or back or if you put the front or back over the sides. This will change the inside dimension. I am just curious what the original plans call for. If you put the front (baffel) in between the sides( like it looks on the review for 6moons) this would only leave 1/8" on each sides by the time you cut the hole for the driver. If someone has built these as they were intended I would really appreciate a response.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: germany
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here you can find a plan with all the dimensions you need to know
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...ornet-plan.gif |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Thanks for the relpy but those are the plans I have. I am looking what the inside dimension is..depth and with.This changes on how you put these cabinets together. I am interested in the correct way these were designed to be put together as described in my previous post.
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
If you can subtract the internal dimensions are obvious... ie internal width = 120 - 2x12 = 96mm. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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These are nice and sleek. It seems they are designed for the FE103E.
I have a bunch of Dayton RS-100-4's sitting around. Anyone have suggestions on modifications to this design to adapt it to the Daytons? Cheers, Mitch |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Quote:
Thanks Dave, I understand . I built a couple prototypes of these and the one out of 3/4 hardwood sounded much better than the 1/2 birch ply. I narrowed up the inside demensions and the bass is quite tunefull instead of just a low tone I got from the original plan. Much clearer, cleaner sound also. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Hi flippinjaz, can you estimate where the bass rolls off, e.g. with a test tone CD? The vertical dimension corresponds to a ~35Hz QW resonance which obviously seems a bit low for a driver of this size.
I read on Bob Brines' site that when a cab is tuned too low for the driver, you may hit the QW resonance but the price can be a sag above that. It would be interesting to know the Fs, Qts and Vas of this beefy little champ. Aesthetically it's pretty sweet. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
89.23 6.83 4.60 1.24 0.98 3.56 3.74 54.11 85.16 8.59E-07 3.40 sample size 4. Min-max deviation ~ 15% dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Hi Dave, thanks for posting the measurements. Oh dear, it's tuned more than an octave below Fs. So this cab is going to behave roughly like an infinite baffle? It looks like a much smaller box would get better bass. This driver does look like it would be fun to play with, though it would take more watts than I have at the moment.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Flippinjaz: What type of hardwood did you use? Were you able to compare to one made with MDF?
Thanks |
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