Decware DFR8

[Jamesuk1]

Hi guys .Well its too cold to be building speakers here in the Uk .Busy thinking about a future project.I love my Chilli-chang fostex 168e sigma's but im looking at improving the bass impact and dynamics a little.What about this driver ?http://www.decware.com/newsite/DFR8.htm

Would this sound more dynamic .Also im thinking of maybe a half chilli chang with this driver.Any thoughts ??? James

[chrisb]

Originally posted by Jamesuk1
Hi guys .Well its too cold to be building speakers here in the Uk .Busy thinking about a future project.I love my Chilli-chang fostex 168e sigma's but im looking at improving the bass impact and dynamics a little.What about this driver ?http://www.decware.com/newsite/DFR8.htm

Would this sound more dynamic .Also im thinking of maybe a half chilli chang with this driver.Any thoughts ??? James

I'd be surprised if his modifications to the suspension did not change the T/S parameters. Since Scott's designs are rather finely tuned, it would be interesting to know if Steve or others have measurements of modified drivers, in case revisions to the enclosure design would be required.

[Alex from Oz]

If you love your fostex 168e sigma's and want a little more bass and dynamics why not try EnABL?

EnABL removes the spurious 'noise' inherent with all speaker cones and brings out the dynamics that are there already.
In my experience this also improves the bass response.

If you are interested, I can explain how you could try EnABL on your speaker cabinets.
Not as dramatic as EnABLing the cones, but it will give you a taste of the EnABL magic without touching the drivers.

Cheers,

Alex

[just a guy]

IIRC Decware Steve measured and posted the "new" driver specs and IIRC they were virtually identical to unmodded - but don't quote me on that. I'd confirm this but refuse to even look it up based on the ludicrous amount of money he wants for his couple of relatively easy mods.

OTOH, I actually own a pair of the older style Decware modded drivers without the extra surround. Got these used cheaper than stock 206, so I dropped the snobbish attitude for long enough to purchase them. The ones I have are just colored black and have a socket fitted as a phase plug and that's about the extent of the mods, so I doubt the specs on mine are any different than any other plugged 206. I'd bet the cost of materials for Sachiko on it.

[Jamesuk1]

Hi Alex, thanks for your reply, Im very interested in how i can improve,EnABL both my drivers and cabinets.I wasn't sure you could enable the new sigma 168 driver could you please explain....James

[Alex from Oz]

IIRC dave from planet10 has done a set of 108eS, so it should be possible to do the 168eS.

With regard to your cabinets, I need to know a couple of things:
1) Did you use a single piece deflector?
2) Are your able to remove one side of your cabinets or are they completely glued up?

I can draw up some pics showing where to place the EnABL pattern on the cabinet based on your answers.

Cheers,

Alex

[Jamesuk1]

hi Alex well the deflectors are single piece and yes all glued up.What do i have to do inside the cabinet as its only accesible
through the driver hole now...
James

[planet10]

Originally posted by Alex from Oz
it should be possible to do the 168eS.

Certainly should... all the same rules apply...

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...48#post1709848

dave

[Alex from Oz]

Ok, to get us started.

First step is to get a cutting mat, blade and some Norton 'All Weather Tape'.
The tape is clear and can be removed.

Lay the tape sticky side down on the cutting mat and cut into rectangular blocks 8mm x 4mm.

I'll have some pics tomorrow of where to place the blocks.

Cheers,

Alex

[Alex from Oz]

My apologies for not explaining my previous post - blame the cat for that.

Block size is calculated based on 18 block pairs using 4 x internal width of the mouth as the circumference.

See the EnABL block size calculator.

Block material can be PVC duct tape, paint or the Norton "All Weather Tape".
The thing I like about the latter is that it is clear, works very well but can be removed.

Have a look at the pic below.

This is the first place I would start with EnABL for your speakers for two reasons:
1) requires a minimum number of blocks
2) should provide an audible change - which will encourage you to continue.

Obviously you need to repeat this top and bottom for both speakers.
Try doing one speaker first, then listen to them in stereo.
Usually they sound strangely unbalanced.
Listen with your ear close to the driver of the treated speaker and then compare with the untreated speaker - can you hear a difference?
Then do the other side.

Next step will be to treat the mouths and baffle.