Decware DFR8

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Hi guys .Well its too cold to be building speakers here in the Uk .Busy thinking about a future project.I love my Chilli-chang fostex 168e sigma's but im looking at improving the bass impact and dynamics a little.What about this driver ?http://www.decware.com/newsite/DFR8.htm

Would this sound more dynamic .Also im thinking of maybe a half chilli chang with this driver.Any thoughts ??? James
 
Jamesuk1 said:
Hi guys .Well its too cold to be building speakers here in the Uk .Busy thinking about a future project.I love my Chilli-chang fostex 168e sigma's but im looking at improving the bass impact and dynamics a little.What about this driver ?http://www.decware.com/newsite/DFR8.htm

Would this sound more dynamic .Also im thinking of maybe a half chilli chang with this driver.Any thoughts ??? James


I'd be surprised if his modifications to the suspension did not change the T/S parameters. Since Scott's designs are rather finely tuned, it would be interesting to know if Steve or others have measurements of modified drivers, in case revisions to the enclosure design would be required.
 
If you love your fostex 168e sigma's and want a little more bass and dynamics why not try EnABL?

EnABL removes the spurious 'noise' inherent with all speaker cones and brings out the dynamics that are there already.
In my experience this also improves the bass response.

If you are interested, I can explain how you could try EnABL on your speaker cabinets.
Not as dramatic as EnABLing the cones, but it will give you a taste of the EnABL magic without touching the drivers.

Cheers,

Alex
 
IIRC Decware Steve measured and posted the "new" driver specs and IIRC they were virtually identical to unmodded - but don't quote me on that. I'd confirm this but refuse to even look it up based on the ludicrous amount of money he wants for his couple of relatively easy mods.

OTOH, I actually own a pair of the older style Decware modded drivers without the extra surround. Got these used cheaper than stock 206, so I dropped the snobbish attitude for long enough to purchase them. The ones I have are just colored black and have a socket fitted as a phase plug and that's about the extent of the mods, so I doubt the specs on mine are any different than any other plugged 206. I'd bet the cost of materials for Sachiko on it.
 
IIRC dave from planet10 has done a set of 108eS, so it should be possible to do the 168eS.

With regard to your cabinets, I need to know a couple of things:
1) Did you use a single piece deflector?
2) Are your able to remove one side of your cabinets or are they completely glued up?

I can draw up some pics showing where to place the EnABL pattern on the cabinet based on your answers.

Cheers,

Alex
 
hi Alex well the deflectors are single piece and yes all glued up.What do i have to do inside the cabinet as its only accesible
through the driver hole now...
James
 

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Ok, to get us started.

First step is to get a cutting mat, blade and some Norton 'All Weather Tape'.
The tape is clear and can be removed.

Lay the tape sticky side down on the cutting mat and cut into rectangular blocks 8mm x 4mm.

I'll have some pics tomorrow of where to place the blocks.

Cheers,

Alex
 
My apologies for not explaining my previous post - blame the cat for that.

Block size is calculated based on 18 block pairs using 4 x internal width of the mouth as the circumference.

See the EnABL block size calculator.

Block material can be PVC duct tape, paint or the Norton "All Weather Tape".
The thing I like about the latter is that it is clear, works very well but can be removed.

Have a look at the pic below.

This is the first place I would start with EnABL for your speakers for two reasons:
1) requires a minimum number of blocks
2) should provide an audible change - which will encourage you to continue.

Obviously you need to repeat this top and bottom for both speakers.
Try doing one speaker first, then listen to them in stereo.
Usually they sound strangely unbalanced.
Listen with your ear close to the driver of the treated speaker and then compare with the untreated speaker - can you hear a difference?
Then do the other side.

Next step will be to treat the mouths and baffle.
 

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rjbond3rd said:
Even lacking a theoretical basis, it's easy to settle this empirically. Either it's audible or it's not. I do have two sets of identical drivers and have been A/B'ing them for a month or so. It's a lot easier to listen than to slog through the debate. I guess I'm lazy. :)


I assume you're referring to EnABL driver treatment - and the impressions of your listening are ....?


Full disclosure - I was "brain-washed" at my initial listening session at Bud's place almost 2 years ago, so for me the final (?) outcome of the technical / theoretical debate is meaningless.

The only thing that matters is getting closer to the music, and for me the polka-dots open that door just a little wider.
 
According to sensible theory EnABL is nonsense.

Thankfully, throughout Hx, people have pursued such nonsense and come to prove the "sensible theory" wanting. That is the nature of science, the progress of learning, understanding... Scientific method has disproven innumerable sensible theories and proven many theories that were once considered nonsense.

Personally, I would not dismiss just because it has not been proven; this would limit my willingness to investigate and understand. However, I may choose not to accept or utilise something until it is proven... or I may take a leap of faith or investigate it myself.

Cheers
 
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