Started this week, may be a bit slow
working on the baffles
Good thing about this build is everything is right angled, no fancy angle cuts
working on the baffles
Good thing about this build is everything is right angled, no fancy angle cuts
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
both baffles are complete, should finish one completely tomorrow
dunno about you guys but these cabinets require two people to move safely
as you can see I have another rather expensive hobby
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dunno about you guys but these cabinets require two people to move safely
as you can see I have another rather expensive hobby
Yeah its a 33% version of the real one.
Was considered big at the time, now 40% is the norm in giant scale rc.
I have a pair of 206e's a few years old.
I fired up one incomplete box yesterday, still needs the deflectors.
The sound is excellent, these are the most sensitive speakers I have ever used, the sound jumps out at you.
They project a large full sound source like electrostatics.
Playing the speaker alongside the other blh box I have, I can hardly hear that box. I also have a small sub which appears to be now irrelevent as I am getting more lowend with the Sachiko.
Was considered big at the time, now 40% is the norm in giant scale rc.
I have a pair of 206e's a few years old.
I fired up one incomplete box yesterday, still needs the deflectors.
The sound is excellent, these are the most sensitive speakers I have ever used, the sound jumps out at you.
They project a large full sound source like electrostatics.
Playing the speaker alongside the other blh box I have, I can hardly hear that box. I also have a small sub which appears to be now irrelevent as I am getting more lowend with the Sachiko.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I completed the pair last week.
Unfortunately I found they were a bit too efficient,
I am using a preamp(Welborne Ultrapath) which has an electronic stepped attenuator driving a gainclone.
On the lowest notch it was quite loud, so much so my diy sub couldnt keep up.
So I put in the bsc I had with my previous blh and that toned things down a bit as well as boosted the lowend.
Is it unusual to use BSC's with these large double horns ?
I am happy with the sound quality and the sound projected is quite large and imposing, kinda like some large accoustat 8foot electrostatics I once heard. Luckily I have a fairly large room, I suspect a small room might be different though.
Indeed. They need a large room, hate being near boundaries, & you have to be a minimum of 8ft from them for proper LF wavefront integration.
They self-correct for baffle-step loss, so your shelving filter will be reducing levels above whatever frequency it's set at to levels below that of the LF.
One thing that's got me scratching my head a bit -you say they're too efficient. That has the opposite effect to what you describe. The cabinet is a high-gain horn that only works up to just above the mass-corner of the driver & does nothing above that (aside from attenuating the upper treble regions due to the high level of damping imposed on the rear of the cone), so if you're saying the response above it is too hot, that's inherently nothing to do with the cabinet.Possibly your choice of ply isn't helping -I can't see too clearly in the picture, but it doesn't look like the baltic birch they were designed for & is unlikely to be as stiff, so they might have some panel resonance problems.
They self-correct for baffle-step loss, so your shelving filter will be reducing levels above whatever frequency it's set at to levels below that of the LF.
One thing that's got me scratching my head a bit -you say they're too efficient. That has the opposite effect to what you describe. The cabinet is a high-gain horn that only works up to just above the mass-corner of the driver & does nothing above that (aside from attenuating the upper treble regions due to the high level of damping imposed on the rear of the cone), so if you're saying the response above it is too hot, that's inherently nothing to do with the cabinet.Possibly your choice of ply isn't helping -I can't see too clearly in the picture, but it doesn't look like the baltic birch they were designed for & is unlikely to be as stiff, so they might have some panel resonance problems.
I know the feeling, believe me.
You might find it worth doubling the sides then, and this is one of those rare occasions where (good Lord forgive me) MDF would probably be useful.
It should help the stereo imaging at the very least if you can get them away from side-walls.
If it's too much for your existing pre to control properly, you'll probably do OK by using a series resistor sans inductor, although that'll also fool with the balance somewhat. A line-level attenuator might be a better idea, until you can upgrade your preamp.
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