anchoring speakers to hard wood

[binarywhisper]

Pretty much everything I've seen touted as a solution had nothing to do with anchoring the speakers, but rather isolating. Things like spikes on cups don't anchor the speaker.

The only thought I've had so far is to use a 50 or 60 lb peice of slate. We build scratch posts using slate bases that we drill 1/2 inch holes though to lag bolt the post to. We use Goop to glue rubber feet to them. I thought I'd just lag bolt the speakers to them.

That will make for 120lb speaker though and I do pull them 4 ft from any wall when I do serious listening.

Any other ideas?

[mwmkravchenko]

WHY?

Do you seek to anchor the boxes to the floor for some reason?

If you desire better coupling as an experiment you might try a bag of dry sand on the top for a time and see if there is any desired improvement. I mentioned sand because a bag of it at Home Despot costs about $7

Your idea about the slate is interesting but pretty much permanent when you think of the weight!

Mark

[GM]

Interesting you didn't get any links off 'slate' as I've repeatedly recommended topping off (mass loading) any lightweight and/or TL, MLTL, etc. speaker, especially end loaded ones, with slate, marble, heavy planter to appease WAF, etc..

GM

[binarywhisper]

Yes I seek to anchor my speakers to the floor.

mwmkravchenko
Your response suggests that you are mystified by my desire to anchor my speakers to the floor.

That is exactly what spikes that are physically attached to the bottom of speakers do when they penatrate though carpet into the underlying floor.

That is what I have read and what my internal logic tells me and in my limited experience it is a good thing. It serves the same purpose that adding weight to the box does. Anything that can be done to keep as much of the drivers movement and vibrations limited to the driver itself is a good thing. It is also one of the reason I chose a bi-polar design with the drivers coupled directly to each other back to back.

The front and rear panels of my speaker boxes were built hollow and filled with sand but that was done as much to minimize radiant vibrations with the additional weight a bonus. I tested with 25 lb steel plates but they are not pretty enough to please my wife.

So while additional step to control vibrations are likely overkill considering the size of my drivers and the power I put to them it is essentially free overkill that requires very little effort so why not do it? Our whole hobby is overkill by most standards

Anyway it is my beleif that it is everything except the speakers that we want to de-couple from the floor.

The attached slate idea is what I beleive I'll go with. It is easy for us as we already have lots of it and are used to drilling it plus it will only take 10 minutes to remove if we move or something.

GM I never searched for slate or granite. That was something I thought of after I search .... as I was typing the message actually.