dayton pa130-8 in BIB?

[brookbh]

Does anyone have any dimensions for the 5" dayton FR driver in a BIB? I put it in the calculator and it came up with like a 73" line length which seemed a little off, even though the Fs is 92.

I think i may just do the Pioneer a-11 in a BIB in the 84" line.

This is for an apartment on the 3rd floor which has discouraged me from trying the b20 in a BIB even though I really want to. Plus the cost of a 3/4" mdf sheet at home depot is $27 now times 3 sheets and thats almost a $100 in mdf. Does anyone sell 3/4 mdf sheets in anything besides 4 x 8 and 4 x 2?

[mikje]

Did you try this site? (Column R)
http://www.zillaaudio.com/diy-speaker-building.htm

You might look at shelving pieces for different dimensions of wood or you might be able to have the wood cut to size at the store.

[fwater]

Try the PA-130 over the A-11. I have both and each has its own merits, but I lean toward the Dayton for what seems like slightly better definition and much better extension up high. Plus, though sensitivety is listed as 90dB for both drivers, the PA-130 is simply louder and more "exciting". What the Pioneer does have over the Dayton is better extension down low without EQ, but the Dayton has much higher excursion before audible distortion sets in, so it can be "dialed-up" in the bass region for more output. Neither of these is a hot performer down low, so if you're in need of a rockin' speaker, you'll need a sub for either. Calculate a BiB at 60Hz for the PA-130 and 45Hz for the A-11, they'll handle these lengths just fine.

Or, try what I'm doing... a PA-130 and Goldwood 15" or18" in an open baffle... we could compare notes.

[brookbh]

Do you have a tweeter on either the dayton 5" or the pioneer a-11? Im going to be running either off a dayton APA 150 amp, so roughly they could see around 35 to 40 watts @ 8ohms. I could add a sub later if it needs it, like i was thinking an one of the mcm 8" subs in a tl, BIB or tapped horn, to keep everything on the cheaper side.

[fwater]

IMO, the PA-130 doesn't need a tweeter. I know what the plots looks like vs. the A-11, but the Dayton just got shimmery and bright with a small tweet, while the Pioneer got better overall character. In both cases, the addition of a Dayton ND20 caused confusion in imaging and took some realism out of the mix. The degredation was not very profound in either case, but it was enough to say "Why use an ultra cheap fullranger just to massage it more into a two-way?".

Summation- I suggest the PA-130 in a BiB or even a traditional bass-reflex, without tweeter, and then experiment with BSC or even a wide notch filter to adjust tone if you're so inclined. In fact, maybe it's a good idea to try the BR enclosure first to see if the mids and highs are what you're looking for, it's what I did. The only advantage with the A-11 (which could tip the scale for anyone) is slightly more low bass output at the cost of non-stellar highs or the addition of a helper tweeter. If you're willing to add a sub, pick the PA-130 by a small margin.

[fwater]

I should clarify that the addition of a tweeter to either driver doesn't hurt things enough to immediately discount them, it's a matter of opinion... you're the ultimate judge, and the only correct answer is the one you arrive at.