Aiko owners, some suggestions please.

[901Fixer]

I'm curious what combinations you have tried that you have liked.

1. What kind of damping material and where.

2. Room placement, toe-in, elevation etc.

3. Amplifier options.

4. Subwoofer help. HP cap to the Aiko or not.

I will be using FE108Enabled drivers, thanks Dave. I currently have two Sony Recievers that I will temporarily use so as to really enjoy the improvement a proper amp will provide later.

Are any of the Tube amps on eBay from China any good? They look nifty.

I have no loyalty or preference to any brand, style, type anything. I realize many of the decisions you have made were from personal preference through experience. As a newbie to clean Hi-Fi, an informed starting point is what I'm looking for.

[chrisb]

I'm a bit curious myself as to the number of Aikos extant, and builders' impressions vis a vis other projects.

Regarding amps - I'm all for tube amps, and the Chinese products I've heard ( e-Bay sourced and otherwise) have ranged from decent, if not captivating, sound but rather scary build quality to very nice indeed - but before making a categorical recommendation either way, it would be helpful to have some idea as to budget.

Be aware that after sales service is not necessarily a strength of many of these offerings.

OTOH, there are some great sounding high value tube kits available, particularly if you don't need scads of power.


http://www.decware.com/newsite/diy.html

http://www.bottlehead.com/et/adobespc/S.E.X./SEX.htm

service and forum support for the Bottlehead gear is legendary

This factory built unit is very nice:

http://www.audio-magus.com/glow_amp_one_p/gla1.htm


Some of the Class-T amps also offer good bang for the buck:

http://www.audio-magus.com/product_p/ta10.htm

http://www.audio-magus.com/product_p/krt20.htm

http://www.audio-magus.com/product_p/krt20u.htm

[901Fixer]

Thanks for all of the links, will definately be helpful when the time comes.

I was doing some cutting calculations and wondered if you fine folks use Baltic Birch in 4' x 8' sheets or the 5' x 5' variety I read about but was previously not aware existed? Looks like two of the 5' x 5' sheets would be enough where one 4' x 8' is not. Two sheets of 4' x 8' would work but cost would be higher and lots more leftover.
Are the 5' x 5' sheets available in the US? I can't say I've actually ever shopped for high quality plywood other than the stuff Home Depot or Lowes carries.
Is good 'ol Elmers Wood Glue up to the task or what should I be using?

[jeffx]

I am also planning on starting to build the Aikos over Christmas with the help of my stepfather. I've got the 108ESigmas and the baltic birch ready to go.

You can get 5 x 5 sheets of baltic birch here in the states. I got mine(2 sheets) from Wurth Wood here in South Carolina. I checked and the closest Wurth to you is in Chattanooga.

My question about the Aikos is about the size of the supra-baffle. I know someone else has made it elliptical, but has anyone experimented with a smaller circle? What difference would this make?

[901Fixer]

I'm currently in Orlando, FL. I hope to be moved to Knoxville soon though.

What did you pay per 5x5 ? Is there a Wurth in Orlando? I suppose I can check that too. Thanks for the info.

From what I've read, the oval supra-baffle works the best. A round was tried first. I prefer the look of the Aiko with no baffle but it is supposed to make a desirable difference.

[jeffx]

The furthest south a Wurth Wood is in Atlanta. I paid $35/sheet for the 5/8" 5 x 5.

Visually, I prefer the circle over the oval. More importantly, hopefully I can use my circle cutting guide that I use for the speaker cutouts to easily make round SBs.

[chrisb]

Originally posted by jeffx

My question about the Aikos is about the size of the supra-baffle. I know someone else has made it elliptical, but has anyone experimented with a smaller circle? What difference would this make?

The elliptical baffle was probably mine - dimensions were 273mm x 440mm. ( approx a golden ratio )

I'd made a variety of rectilinear shaped supra-baffles on several other projects, and it had been calling to me for a while to try an ellipse. Never did try a circle on this pair.

Originally posted by 901Fixer


From what I've read, the oval supra-baffle works the best. A round was tried first. I prefer the look of the Aiko with no baffle but it is supposed to make a desirable difference.

This particular pair of Aikos were originally intended for the Lyeco 4" driver that turned out to be a major disappointment - so it took some major revisions to the front baffle to fit the Fostex 108ESigma. In the end it was easier to just remove the driver cut-out portion of the fixed front panel altogether, and seal the suprabaffle to the cabinet. Future experimentation with different drivers, or without the SB is thereby complicated somewhat - so I've only heard them this way.

Originally posted by jeffx

Visually, I prefer the circle over the oval. More importantly, hopefully I can use my circle cutting guide that I use for the speaker cutouts to easily make round SBs.

The circle is certainly easier to cut by hand - I was able to get the ellipse machined on a CNC at work (in less time that it would take to cut the circles with a jig) . The aesthetics is of course entirely a matter of personal taste.

[901Fixer]

I've been discussing with Jeff a dimension that is not listed on the spec page for this enclosure. The "A" piece, 4 per box, does not have a location/dimension measurement for the inner pair. These look to determine the volume of the CC.

Jeff also mentioned to me that when using the FE108Sigma the driver mounts to the Supra-Baffle which is mounted to the face of the actual Baffle. If we are building this for the 108 to begin with should we change anything so as to mount the driver to the actual Baffle directly?

[chrisb]

Originally posted by 901Fixer


1) I've been discussing with Jeff a dimension that is not listed on the spec page for this enclosure. The "A" piece, 4 per box, does not have a location/dimension measurement for the inner pair. These look to determine the volume of the CC.

2) Jeff also mentioned to me that when using the FE108Sigma the driver mounts to the Supra-Baffle which is mounted to the face of the actual Baffle. If we are building this for the 108 to begin with should we change anything so as to mount the driver to the actual Baffle directly?

1) piece A is listed as 30mm x 127mm. Yes, they will determine the internal depth of the chamber.

2) I wouldn't recommend that for 2 reasons:
- the CC volume and parts dimensions include the additional layer of the "supra-baffle". If you tried to mount the driver directly to the 862mm long "actual" baffle, it might not fit.
- Even if it did fit, mounting the driver directly on the main baffle would result in it (driver) being rear-loaded on the suprabaffle. I've actually done this with FE126E and chamfered the front of the SB (which results is what could be considered a short, conical waveguide - see photo of A126 ), but the Sigma series beveled front mounting ring would seriously complicate things. I did consider it, but gave up.

This also means that the SB needs to be removable, while maintaining an air-tight seal to the main baffle.

All in all, I'd imagine it would be easier to attach the SB first, and than mount the driver. It does of course become one of those "I trust it'll work".

If you'd like to hear what it sounds like without the SB, you could always mount the driver to a small (157mm square) plate. In either case, note the drawings indicate the main baffle and driver mounting plate are bevelled on the back side to allow adequate "breathing room" around the large diameter of the magnet on the Sigma driver.

[901Fixer]

Originally posted by chrisb


1) piece A is listed as 30mm x 127mm. Yes, they will determine the internal depth of the chamber.

I see the dimension of the actual piece but don't see where it is located, the inner pair, relative to anything else.

The Supra-Baffle looks to be made up of 3 pieces. The whole elipse that mounts to the front of the actual baffle that the driver mounts to. Two elipse halves that fit behind it up snugly to the sidepanels. What is the overall thickness of the Supra-Baffle and what is the thickness of the 3 pieces?

Is there an updated set of plans for the Aiko or has everyone used the set on the Frugal-Horn site?