Fonken floorstander duct seal & damping

artfuldodger · 16th December 2008, 03:57 AM

Hello, i'm getting ready to build the floorstander Mark II's. Does it help to do the Duct seal on the basket trick? What inner walls is the cotton or wool felt attached to? Seems like i've read all walls but the back wall. Does the holey board actually touch the back of the speaker?
I've read a lot of post about building Fonkens but haven't read a "Sticky" or any indepth post on building these. I have the Planet-10 drawing and a few pictures.

TerryO · 16th December 2008, 04:11 AM

The Duct Seal works well for me. I might add that before Duct Seal, I used oil based modelling clay which also works pretty good, never hardens and damps well.

I've seen a "few" Fonkens over at Dave's and while I admire the design (and sound!), I have never constructed one. Dave, Chrisb or SCD can tell you what you need to know as far as cabinet damping is concerned.

Best Regards,
TerryO

planet10 · 16th December 2008, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by artfuldodger
Does it help to do the Duct seal on the basket trick? What inner walls is the cotton or wool felt attached to? Seems like i've read all walls but the back wall. Does the holey board actually touch the back of the speaker?

Yes. Yes (i'd do the back wall too -- just not near the vent exit). Yes.

dave

chrisb · 16th December 2008, 06:32 AM

Well, these are a considerably easier build than the original stand-mounted Fonken, so I guess we considered an assembly log unnecessary. Plus, I tend to accelerate the construction process, and taking photos is generally the last think on my mind, and I usually need to drag Dave into the shop for that.

Yes, we like to fit the driver brace as tightly against the magnet assembly as possible - which generally requires the driver to be temporarily installed for accurate measurement.

If you build with the lower void cavity, I'd definitely recommend filling with inert ballast - as much to stabilize the slender enclosure as to attenuate resonances.

artfuldodger · 17th December 2008, 03:00 PM

Thanks for the info guys, i've found a few more build pictures and hope to get started soon. I'll fit the drivers tight against the brace/holey board. Do i need to insulate one side of the holey board and not cut out the insulation for the holes? I saw this on one Fonken build.

planet10 · 17th December 2008, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by artfuldodger
Do i need to insulate one side of the holey board and not cut out the insulation for the holes? I saw this on one Fonken build.

Yes.

dave

16th December 2008, 03:57 AM	#1
artfuldodger diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	Fonken floorstander duct seal & damping Hello, i'm getting ready to build the floorstander Mark II's. Does it help to do the Duct seal on the basket trick? What inner walls is the cotton or wool felt attached to? Seems like i've read all walls but the back wall. Does the holey board actually touch the back of the speaker? I've read a lot of post about building Fonkens but haven't read a "Sticky" or any indepth post on building these. I have the Planet-10 drawing and a few pictures.

16th December 2008, 04:11 AM	#2
TerryO diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Seattle,Wash.	The Duct Seal works well for me. I might add that before Duct Seal, I used oil based modelling clay which also works pretty good, never hardens and damps well. I've seen a "few" Fonkens over at Dave's and while I admire the design (and sound!), I have never constructed one. Dave, Chrisb or SCD can tell you what you need to know as far as cabinet damping is concerned. Best Regards, TerryO __________________ "If you have to ask why, then you're probably on the right track." quote from Terry Olson's DIYaudio Forum application

16th December 2008, 06:32 AM	#4
chrisb diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: victoria BC	Well, these are a considerably easier build than the original stand-mounted Fonken, so I guess we considered an assembly log unnecessary. Plus, I tend to accelerate the construction process, and taking photos is generally the last think on my mind, and I usually need to drag Dave into the shop for that. Yes, we like to fit the driver brace as tightly against the magnet assembly as possible - which generally requires the driver to be temporarily installed for accurate measurement. If you build with the lower void cavity, I'd definitely recommend filling with inert ballast - as much to stabilize the slender enclosure as to attenuate resonances. __________________ you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi

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17th December 2008, 03:00 PM	#5
artfuldodger diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	Thanks for the info guys, i've found a few more build pictures and hope to get started soon. I'll fit the drivers tight against the brace/holey board. Do i need to insulate one side of the holey board and not cut out the insulation for the holes? I saw this on one Fonken build.

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