FR taming tricks

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diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
I just bought some old CHEAP FR drivers with a wizzer.
Not much good but much better after coating the paper with a couple of coats of PVA, they are a bit harsh at the top end, I remember dave/planet10 had a trich with winding soft wool around the base of the wizzer but can't find the link or discussion thread.
Can some-one please point me to that thread or link.
Thanx in advance.
I only paid $5 for 3 drivers so not much lost if I fail, and it is fun tinkering, I'll do the baskets only if the wool trick cleans up the top end
 
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98 cent whizzer trick... in the original incarnation uses very low density foam (attributed to Marc Wauters -- probably adapted from Wharfedale's successful application in the Super X series).

Use an appropriate size rectangle of foam (ie furnace filter) to support the outer edge of the whizzer against the main cone.

dave

Note: a lot of posts while i was typing 🙂
 

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G'day Alex, they were old DickSmith from the late 70's early 80's. generic made in Taiwan stuff, 8inch cone 20oz magnet 1inch VC, typical driver for the DIY scene from those days, I bid on one because they looked like Fosters in the photo.
Funny how there can be such a difference in sound between generic drivers using similar componentry, I have another pair of 8's here that use same magnet, front plate pole and rear plate very similar paper for the cone that sound so good I'm leaving them "as is" just like they came in the cheap box I pulled them from.
Just a note for anu-one in Melbourne Australia.
One of the best local suppliers of panels is so busy with custom shop fitting jobs at the moment that all off-cuts are going for $1- each, 300 X 1200 and bigger in 12/16/19 mm I'm going back tomorrow with a bigger car.
AllBoards in Trawawalla Ave Thomastown, near the ring road
 
On modifying FR drivers. I have been searching years for the perfect FR driver and in desperation have tried some mods. Like removing dust caps, fitting phase plugs (usually good), painting cones etc. I can't say I have been successful. Now I have Visaton B200s and often gaze at those dust caps...................🙂

EDIT Previusly I had CSS FR125Ss they are smooth without the 'shout' a lot of FRs have, but eventually I felt they were too smooth for me, I craved alittle excitement so went with the B200s they have a little too much excitement sometimes, something in between would be nice.
 
Truth is I use FR drivers as extended range mids in the OB's I've been building lately and because they are dirt cheap when salvaged or bought on E***, this particular drier was the first that wasn't acceptable straight off and if I experiment I like to do it on low cost components, so far I have only ruined one pair of drivers and I learned a lot ( as in remembering old lessons ) and will try not to make the same mistake again.
As for modifying a Visiton I admire you but if I paid that much for a driver I would want it to be perfect straight out of the box.
 
Moondog55. I driver I ruined was an old Goodmans Twin Axiom 10. ( I hate too admit this) It has a phenolic whizzer cone. At the time I was fed up with crossovers and decided to try FR, but this speaker suffered from a mechanical crossover problem (soft cardboard to hard phenolic) which was worse than any electrical crossover, the whizzer cone sound just jumped out (ringing) and it drove me nuts. I thought I'll progressively reduce the size of this cone to hopefully reduce or move the problem higher up. No good don't try it.
Another 12" driver with a phenolic whizzer a Goodmans also I think has four slots filled with foam on the edge of the whizzer cone to damp ringing, I won't touch that one I promise. 😀

I have also had nice results from old Alnico cheap drivers, they can be excellent and well worth searching out. I think the goodmans were just trying too hard to extend the freq range.
 
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