Getting ready to begin construction of a pair of Fonken Floorstander Mk II speakers here and have a few questions.
What size hole is required for the FE127eN drivers? Is there a standard size hole saw that will work so I don't have to buy a circle jig for my router. I already have a collection of hole saws.
While researching Fonken boxen, it seems like the question most asked is what size holes for the internal baffle. Compared to the standard Fonken, it would appear the Floorstander Mk II is a little more forgiving with baffle design, although I could be wrong. Any recommendation on what size holes to drill? Is it better to have a bunch of smaller holes or would a couple big holes towards the front of the baffle with small holes towards the back be better?
The drawings on planet10-hifi, thanks Dave and Chris, are based on 15mm material. Here in the US, that is somewhere between 1/2" and 3/4" but closer to 1/2" at roughly 59/100th's of an inch give or take a few thousandths. Home Depot, major chain, here in the US has some nice looking 3/4" Birch plywood that I would like to use. Any problem with this?
Back of the driver should fit firm against the baffle, correct? So I guess I should have drivers on hand before beginning construction? The drawing doesn't show accurate dimensions for the baffle unless I am missing something.
My old man will be building these for me. He's a master craftsman when it comes to woodworking but he is a stubborn pain in the ***, and getting more stubborn with age, when it comes to having him build stuff from other peoples drawings so I'm trying to nip somethings in the bud before we begin. He's my dad though so I have to love him unconditionally I suppose.
He really does do nice work, he just likes to find fault with anything he hasn't personally designed.
Thanks guys.
What size hole is required for the FE127eN drivers? Is there a standard size hole saw that will work so I don't have to buy a circle jig for my router. I already have a collection of hole saws.
While researching Fonken boxen, it seems like the question most asked is what size holes for the internal baffle. Compared to the standard Fonken, it would appear the Floorstander Mk II is a little more forgiving with baffle design, although I could be wrong. Any recommendation on what size holes to drill? Is it better to have a bunch of smaller holes or would a couple big holes towards the front of the baffle with small holes towards the back be better?
The drawings on planet10-hifi, thanks Dave and Chris, are based on 15mm material. Here in the US, that is somewhere between 1/2" and 3/4" but closer to 1/2" at roughly 59/100th's of an inch give or take a few thousandths. Home Depot, major chain, here in the US has some nice looking 3/4" Birch plywood that I would like to use. Any problem with this?
Back of the driver should fit firm against the baffle, correct? So I guess I should have drivers on hand before beginning construction? The drawing doesn't show accurate dimensions for the baffle unless I am missing something.
My old man will be building these for me. He's a master craftsman when it comes to woodworking but he is a stubborn pain in the ***, and getting more stubborn with age, when it comes to having him build stuff from other peoples drawings so I'm trying to nip somethings in the bud before we begin. He's my dad though so I have to love him unconditionally I suppose.
He really does do nice work, he just likes to find fault with anything he hasn't personally designed.Thanks guys.
N1ESE said:
4" hole saw should do it.
If you are talkinng about the holey braces, the hole size id non-critical, you want to target 35-45% holes.
15mm is nominal 5/8". You can use 3/4" as long as you keep the internals (and shorten the port slot by 1/8")
dave
[/QUOTE]Back of the driver should fit firm against the baffle, correct? So I guess I should have drivers on hand before beginning construction? [/QUOTE]
yes
dave
Dave has answered most of your questions, so I'll just add or clarify
Yes, it's easiest to have the drivers on hand to test dry fit the driver/magnet brace .
Make sure to offset the brace from center by at least one thickness of the material.
think of your daily doses of unconditional love as deposits towards future good karma - and remember the power of compound interest
N1ESE said:
Yes, it's easiest to have the drivers on hand to test dry fit the driver/magnet brace .
Make sure to offset the brace from center by at least one thickness of the material.
My old man will be building these for me. He's a master craftsman when it comes to woodworking but he is a stubborn pain in the ***, and getting more stubborn with age, when it comes to having him build stuff from other peoples drawings so I'm trying to nip somethings in the bud before we begin. He's my dad though so I have to love him unconditionally I suppose.
think of your daily doses of unconditional love as deposits towards future good karma - and remember the power of compound interest
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