No.
Short & sweet wasn't it.
Longer version: actually, you can, sort of. Remember, a BLH only operates over a very narrow passband -Fc to Fh, so, for e.g., 40Hz - 200Hz. It effectively does nothing above that upper corner frequency. Fortunately. Aside from in some cases attenuating the HF / upper midrange. You can certainly go low with a BLH, but it'll have to be big to do it. If that's your design goal, may I suggest a couple of bass horns with 15in woofers per channel, hand over to something else at 200Hz upwards.
Short & sweet wasn't it.
Longer version: actually, you can, sort of. Remember, a BLH only operates over a very narrow passband -Fc to Fh, so, for e.g., 40Hz - 200Hz. It effectively does nothing above that upper corner frequency. Fortunately. Aside from in some cases attenuating the HF / upper midrange. You can certainly go low with a BLH, but it'll have to be big to do it. If that's your design goal, may I suggest a couple of bass horns with 15in woofers per channel, hand over to something else at 200Hz upwards.
Hmm. Well, a driver with an Fs of 30Hz and Qts of .25 works out to be 120. So anything with a Qts of .25 with a higher Fs would be acceptable, according to the rule. That sounds reasonable (Fs of 50Hz would be more believable).
But the rule also implies that a driver with an Fs of 121Hz and a Qts of 1 would also work -- and that does not seem correct.
So maybe it's key to make sure you have a low Qts regardless of Fs? Just guessing here.
Interesting, I thought I gave enough info to resolve this seeming conundrum in the other thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1643579#post1643579
BTW, the Fs/Qts rule of thumb is for compression loaded horns, not BLHs, and not a particularly good one overall. I just did a mid-bass compression horn that was only ~62.
GM
BTW, the Fs/Qts rule of thumb is for compression loaded horns, not BLHs, and not a particularly good one overall. I just did a mid-bass compression horn that was only ~62.
GM
bigcatdairy said:
Hi Guys, haven't been around in a while, but I will try to tackle this one lol
I guess it can be done. Well, yes it can be done. There are definitely going to be some stipulations though. How big is the room you are working with and how big the speaker can be will make a big difference. Realistically speaking, a FR blh will give you great sound down to a certain point. You could build many of these as a way to get great sound and extreme volume down to that point. If you had an extreme amount of room to take up, you could do all that you ask. Being realistic, a single driver blh will not give what you seek though. A pair or 4 pair will still likely fall short unless you have an extremely large (commercial theater?) sized space and a lot of power and money to throw at it. The easiest way would be to build a good sounding blh and add a subwoofer or 2 or 10. They can be smaller than the blh cabs would be and can add lots of thunderous noise. Making them mate well with the blh can be tricky but it is possible.
Let us know your parameters. Size room, size budget, size cabs you can work with etc.
Take care,
Robert
Are you trying to build this around an existing 5" driver?
If so which one?
I don't know any that will give "massive, thundering and low bass..."
But maybe it depends on what you define as bass?
The Austin series I mentioned previously are as good as anything I know down to 40Hz, and a lot smoother than BIBs.
As Planet 10 sez: 'benefitting from some of the most advanced design tools available today."
There's plans for 4", 6", and 8" drivers @ http://www.frugal-horn.com/ details @ http://www.frugal-horn.com/ronhorns.html
I played around with placement, room treatment, and I lost count of how many amps (SETs, PPs, even a 650 wpc UREI studio amp & a 1400 wpc Mackie PA amp).
To get near anything I would call "massive, thundering and low bass," I replaced the rear deflectors with a pair of 18" Linkwitz Transformed Subs.
http://www.bagend.com/bagend/downloads/s18e-i.pdf
F3 went from 40 Hz to 8 Hz, still @ 96 dB efficiency, can run everything off one flea power SET amp.
Like everyone else here has said, adding a pair of subs was a far more effective way to get bass.
Putting them where the deflectors were (down-firing) finaly made them integrate.
If so which one?
I don't know any that will give "massive, thundering and low bass..."
But maybe it depends on what you define as bass?
The Austin series I mentioned previously are as good as anything I know down to 40Hz, and a lot smoother than BIBs.
As Planet 10 sez: 'benefitting from some of the most advanced design tools available today."
There's plans for 4", 6", and 8" drivers @ http://www.frugal-horn.com/ details @ http://www.frugal-horn.com/ronhorns.html
I played around with placement, room treatment, and I lost count of how many amps (SETs, PPs, even a 650 wpc UREI studio amp & a 1400 wpc Mackie PA amp).
To get near anything I would call "massive, thundering and low bass," I replaced the rear deflectors with a pair of 18" Linkwitz Transformed Subs.
http://www.bagend.com/bagend/downloads/s18e-i.pdf
F3 went from 40 Hz to 8 Hz, still @ 96 dB efficiency, can run everything off one flea power SET amp.
Like everyone else here has said, adding a pair of subs was a far more effective way to get bass.
Putting them where the deflectors were (down-firing) finaly made them integrate.
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