Fonken Build Questions

[cgrums]

I seem to be having trouble finding the thread I started previously asking about switching from 1/2" material to 3/4" material in a Fonken build.

I made the switch and adjusted the widths of the panels to maintain the same internal volume.

I've cut most of the pieces down to size and am realizing that I didn't leave enough additional material to rabbet the edges of the panels to make a more 'finished' final product.

Here's my question: if the overall length and width of the speaker is reduced by ~1" to allow for 1/2" rabbets on either side, will the design be compromised totally?

I'm in the process of creating a drawing to illustrate what I'm referring to.

 

[planet10]

Here's my question: if the overall length and width of the speaker is reduced by ~1" to allow for 1/2" rabbets on either side, will the design be compromised totally?

I wouldn't do it... that will reduce volume sufficiently to completely redesign the port structure. And with a loss of LF extension.

dave

 

[chrisb]

I seem to be having trouble finding the thread I started previously asking about switching from 1/2" material to 3/4" material in a Fonken build.

I made the switch and adjusted the widths of the panels to maintain the same internal volume.

I've cut most of the pieces down to size and am realizing that I didn't leave enough additional material to rabbet the edges of the panels to make a more 'finished' final product.

Here's my question: if the overall length and width of the speaker is reduced by ~1" to allow for 1/2" rabbets on either side, will the design be compromised totally?

I'm in the process of creating a drawing to illustrate what I'm referring to.

As Dave has already noted, you can't reduce the internal volume without diminishing the performance.

If what you're looking for is a higher degree of finish detail on the exterior of the box, and you already have all the parts cut, you could simply laminate another layer of thin material, either before, or even simpler, after major assembly. They can easily be overlapped, and with appropriate adhesive and panel clamping, effectively create a rabbeted joint .




If you're post veneering the boxes, the fiddliest part of the finishing is hand cutting the veneer around the port slots and rebated driver cutouts. That's where the nose of the clothes iron, a sharp veneer knife, and practice will pay off.

 

[Jim Shearer]

Why not just veneer the cabinets? That's what I'm doing w/ my Fonkens. If you have the patience to build the cabinets right in the first place, then putting a layer of veneer over them is no great burden. Yes, it takes some time & effort w/ an X-acto knife (or in my case, a No. 11 scalpel,) but the result is well worth it.

Cheers, Jim