Guess I will start,
I decided a few weeks ago that I really did not have the proper space and ability to set up my 5.1 500W system in my dorm next year as I have a standard single and not a "double as a single".
I looked around for small speakers that sounded good and nothing that was palatable was under $100 (a price that if they get knocked over or drinks spilled on them that I could live with).
So I decided to go super cheapo.....
The enclosure I am going to use it actually two Walmart Bamboo stackable Drawers done one on top of the other (the same ones I am using to make the enclosure for my active ground Millet SS and Power supply) and the single full range driver is the MCM 55-1854 (very similar to the 55-1853, but with lower distortion and better bass response - basically a next gen version at the same price). I picked this driver because of a few reasons: relatively easy to drive, Freq response, low distortion, CHEAP!). Zaph at Zaphaudio.com also seems to love them for many projects.
The enclosures cost just above $10 each (not including the gluing and other building/refenforcement). I know that I will have to renforce the front because of thickness and the frame style fo the driver, plywood will have to do. The back will be partially or fully open according to design. Closed is not needed since they will be close to a wall corner "ala Frugalhorn".
I am unsure about the size of the front port or doing the angles. If you have any suggestions - it would be appreciated!
Pics:
w/ possible angles and extra backing panel
I decided a few weeks ago that I really did not have the proper space and ability to set up my 5.1 500W system in my dorm next year as I have a standard single and not a "double as a single".
I looked around for small speakers that sounded good and nothing that was palatable was under $100 (a price that if they get knocked over or drinks spilled on them that I could live with).
So I decided to go super cheapo.....
The enclosure I am going to use it actually two Walmart Bamboo stackable Drawers done one on top of the other (the same ones I am using to make the enclosure for my active ground Millet SS and Power supply) and the single full range driver is the MCM 55-1854 (very similar to the 55-1853, but with lower distortion and better bass response - basically a next gen version at the same price). I picked this driver because of a few reasons: relatively easy to drive, Freq response, low distortion, CHEAP!). Zaph at Zaphaudio.com also seems to love them for many projects.
The enclosures cost just above $10 each (not including the gluing and other building/refenforcement). I know that I will have to renforce the front because of thickness and the frame style fo the driver, plywood will have to do. The back will be partially or fully open according to design. Closed is not needed since they will be close to a wall corner "ala Frugalhorn".
I am unsure about the size of the front port or doing the angles. If you have any suggestions - it would be appreciated!
Pics:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
w/ possible angles and extra backing panel
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
how's this for an alternative enclosure?
I'm a little confused about your plans:
"The back will be partially or fully open according to design. Closed is not needed since they will be close to a wall corner "ala Frugalhorn".
I am unsure about the size of the front port or doing the angles. If you have any suggestions - it would be appreciated!"
Do you mean the back of the speaker enclosure? If you leave the rear of the speaker enclosure open, a port on the front baffle won't serve any acoustic function. If you are going to use a "standard" vented design, you'll need to know the net volume of the finished enclosure and the T/S parameters of your MCM drivers to calculate the port length and cross-sectional area.
I'm also not sure what you mean by "doing the angles." Do you mean joining the plywood baffles you will make to the drawer boxes, or chamfering around the rear-side of the driver cut-out, or something altogether different?
Here's another cheap option for a small bamboo box link . I just picked up a couple of the 24cm by 13cm by 10cm versions at ikea for some cheapo bipoles using the B-Stock Aura NS3-193's at Madisound. Ikea has them in a couple of different dimensions (16cm x 16cm, 20cm3), and they are pretty well constructed with nice box joints. Each panel is ~12mm thick (0.5 in), if I recall correctly. I'll be using some left over maple for the front baffles. After this, I'm getting away from the Aura's, as I've already fallen into a rut at the very beginning of my DIY audio habit... err, hobby.
So, my costs for the pair: $12 x 4 for driver + $6 x 2 for boxes = $60.
I'll be running mine sealed.
I'm a little confused about your plans:"The back will be partially or fully open according to design. Closed is not needed since they will be close to a wall corner "ala Frugalhorn".
I am unsure about the size of the front port or doing the angles. If you have any suggestions - it would be appreciated!"
Do you mean the back of the speaker enclosure? If you leave the rear of the speaker enclosure open, a port on the front baffle won't serve any acoustic function. If you are going to use a "standard" vented design, you'll need to know the net volume of the finished enclosure and the T/S parameters of your MCM drivers to calculate the port length and cross-sectional area.
I'm also not sure what you mean by "doing the angles." Do you mean joining the plywood baffles you will make to the drawer boxes, or chamfering around the rear-side of the driver cut-out, or something altogether different?
Here's another cheap option for a small bamboo box link . I just picked up a couple of the 24cm by 13cm by 10cm versions at ikea for some cheapo bipoles using the B-Stock Aura NS3-193's at Madisound. Ikea has them in a couple of different dimensions (16cm x 16cm, 20cm3), and they are pretty well constructed with nice box joints. Each panel is ~12mm thick (0.5 in), if I recall correctly. I'll be using some left over maple for the front baffles. After this, I'm getting away from the Aura's, as I've already fallen into a rut at the very beginning of my DIY audio habit... err, hobby.
So, my costs for the pair: $12 x 4 for driver + $6 x 2 for boxes = $60.
I'll be running mine sealed.
I may be missing something but I thought that you needed an airtight enclosure to recieve any benefit from a port. If the back is open it is basicly and open baffle and if the back is partially open then that's a port right there.
Do you have any more info on those drawers? A fairly large bamboo box would have a lot of uses.
Let us know how it progresses.
They look similar to these, except that they are grooved to be used stacked together.
javascript:openWindow('/browse/big_product_pic.jhtml?PRODID=10012612', 650 , 600, 'yes')
The walmart ones also come in:
3" x 6" x 2.5" (might be good for small power supply)
6" x 12" x 2.5" ( I almost used these, but it was more cumbersome for my purpose)
All of the Walmart ones are groved to be stacked on the bottoms.
Bamboo can be harder to work with because it is stiff and rather slippery.
What will be funny is that my Headphone Amp and power supply will match entirely with my speakers!
javascript:openWindow('/browse/big_product_pic.jhtml?PRODID=10012612', 650 , 600, 'yes')
The walmart ones also come in:
3" x 6" x 2.5" (might be good for small power supply)
6" x 12" x 2.5" ( I almost used these, but it was more cumbersome for my purpose)
All of the Walmart ones are groved to be stacked on the bottoms.
Bamboo can be harder to work with because it is stiff and rather slippery.
What will be funny is that my Headphone Amp and power supply will match entirely with my speakers!
This is the pic of similar ones:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is nearly identical - I hope you can see the propotion of it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ikea hacker
Off topic but of possible interest:
http://ikeahacker.blogspot.com/
That MCM unit had an unusual spec or two, but modeling it with what is given
in the description in the BIB calculator gave a slender but tall box.
I guess it's a toss up as to which would be a better conversation piece.
But the BIBs would fit almost anywhere and possibly be fairly lightweight.
Off topic but of possible interest:
http://ikeahacker.blogspot.com/
That MCM unit had an unusual spec or two, but modeling it with what is given
in the description in the BIB calculator gave a slender but tall box.
I guess it's a toss up as to which would be a better conversation piece.
But the BIBs would fit almost anywhere and possibly be fairly lightweight.
Some interesting ideas for pre-fab enclosures. Here's another possible candidate.
Might be a good kit to mod, you can always plug the port, stuff the box, or replace the speaker. Not too sure about the included driver though, it seems to be the little-known Tang Band W3-832SE which the same seller has posted in other listings.
Figured i'd just throw some other ideas out there
Might be a good kit to mod, you can always plug the port, stuff the box, or replace the speaker. Not too sure about the included driver though, it seems to be the little-known Tang Band W3-832SE which the same seller has posted in other listings.
Figured i'd just throw some other ideas out there
That tang band speaker was considered, but I decided to go my own way. The laminate looks kinda cheezy to me. Plus, it seemed much less like a project I could learn from and take pride in. I also would have to wait for international shipping.
With this setup, I will learn more and have something that matches the other things I am making or have made.
With this setup, I will learn more and have something that matches the other things I am making or have made.
Cool idea!
I was just over at Bambooharwoods todayBamboo Hardwoods in Seattle today. Plenty of cool stuff.
The Walmart drawers are fun and should be pretty cheap. FWIW, bamboo makes a nice sounding speaker box. I should know, I've built a few. =)
I was just over at Bambooharwoods todayBamboo Hardwoods in Seattle today. Plenty of cool stuff.
The Walmart drawers are fun and should be pretty cheap. FWIW, bamboo makes a nice sounding speaker box. I should know, I've built a few. =)
I guess it would make sense that it would be. The long - very consistent grain, strength, and it seems like it might be able to be used almost like a sound board if done thin enough.
I am building them today and tomorrow - will update about SQ. I heard the speakers just hooked up to one of my headphone amps (SS) and it got pretty loud with that 4 ohm impedance - room filling almost! A SI-Gen 2 T-Amp will be powering these and its seems like that will be more than enough.
Just done open, the sound was agreeable - but lacking bass. I could see it and feel it coming deep from the little driver, but open I didn't hear all that much. What do you expect from a $13 4" driver? Hopefully I can configure the box to give a bit more. I laid out the box differently after being a bit more realistic about some things (like center of gravity). I have it marked out as being in the center ( so no front port - which was just for volume anyway). The back piece will probably be in the center so that it send the volume up/down and out.
Even if they sound pretty average in the end , it is a learning experience and they will look much nicer than anything in this price range. Will post later once done.
I am building them today and tomorrow - will update about SQ. I heard the speakers just hooked up to one of my headphone amps (SS) and it got pretty loud with that 4 ohm impedance - room filling almost! A SI-Gen 2 T-Amp will be powering these and its seems like that will be more than enough.
Just done open, the sound was agreeable - but lacking bass. I could see it and feel it coming deep from the little driver, but open I didn't hear all that much. What do you expect from a $13 4" driver? Hopefully I can configure the box to give a bit more. I laid out the box differently after being a bit more realistic about some things (like center of gravity). I have it marked out as being in the center ( so no front port - which was just for volume anyway). The back piece will probably be in the center so that it send the volume up/down and out.
Even if they sound pretty average in the end , it is a learning experience and they will look much nicer than anything in this price range. Will post later once done.
finished product
Overall, I am VERY happy with the look and the performance.
The Bass got much better an the little 4" driver transmits bass that is deep enough to be felt through the floor in a medium sized room with carpet with them on a TV stand.
They easily fill a Medium room to ear splitting levels using 3-5W of power. I actually annoyed people down the hall and one floor down on that amount of power. I dare say that you could likely run these on a computer sound card for small rooms or as computer speakers.
The enclosure actually amplifies the sound pretty well.
Sound is clear and pretty balanced. I was expecting it to be anemic and it really isn't. Sound like $250-300 store bought speakers for a pair in terms of clairty and balance (CC and BB) where I was doing listening and those speakers were much larger. Yeah, they are not the best, but I was just looking for something purpose built and a fun project.
This is my first speaker build and my first design.
I am just happy to not lug the Surround system to school this year again. It is just too much for a small room.
Overall, I am VERY happy with the look and the performance.
The Bass got much better an the little 4" driver transmits bass that is deep enough to be felt through the floor in a medium sized room with carpet with them on a TV stand.
They easily fill a Medium room to ear splitting levels using 3-5W of power. I actually annoyed people down the hall and one floor down on that amount of power. I dare say that you could likely run these on a computer sound card for small rooms or as computer speakers.
The enclosure actually amplifies the sound pretty well.
Sound is clear and pretty balanced. I was expecting it to be anemic and it really isn't. Sound like $250-300 store bought speakers for a pair in terms of clairty and balance (CC and BB) where I was doing listening and those speakers were much larger. Yeah, they are not the best, but I was just looking for something purpose built and a fun project.
This is my first speaker build and my first design.
I am just happy to not lug the Surround system to school this year again. It is just too much for a small room.
Nicely done. The Open back IIRC on a shelf should give very pleasing results.
Open back was my first foray into using the FE127e in an enclosure about the size as yours.
Mine was a mini enclosure hack where I removed the original parts and put in the Fostex. GM was the brains behind that.
I am still looking for the first original contribution I can make to the
hobby after all these years.
Open back was my first foray into using the FE127e in an enclosure about the size as yours.
Mine was a mini enclosure hack where I removed the original parts and put in the Fostex. GM was the brains behind that.
I am still looking for the first original contribution I can make to the
hobby after all these years.
I found that the back plate was the key to getting the "correct" sound. When it was completely open in the back, it did not seem as full or rich in the mids. It also made the "sweet spot" larger.
My knowledge bass is not in speakers (headphones), so I am pretty sure that there can be design improvements here. I wonder what a triangle piece in the center of the back plate would do? Have a curved funnel to a down firing bass tube? Variation in the slot sizes?
It might be a fun little project for little cash and be good for garage speakers or just when something small and nice looking is needed for background.
They are not HI-FI, but Mid-fi...yeah sure.
My knowledge bass is not in speakers (headphones), so I am pretty sure that there can be design improvements here. I wonder what a triangle piece in the center of the back plate would do? Have a curved funnel to a down firing bass tube? Variation in the slot sizes?
It might be a fun little project for little cash and be good for garage speakers or just when something small and nice looking is needed for background.
They are not HI-FI, but Mid-fi...yeah sure.
Your project piqued my interest, time to build something! I have a Freecom MusicPal internet radio that has a built-in speaker, but it sounds awful. It needs an amp an a pair of small speakers. I've been eyeballing this for a while:
http://www.stootsi.com/store/item.aspx?item=55407721
A pair of full-range 3" speakers and a 15W+15W T-amp for $21 shipped...
So, I went to WallyMart to check out the boxes. Noticed that none of them fit together too well, but found what I thought would be a cool alternative in the kitchen section - cylindrical bamboo "tool holders", and bamboo banana trees. Also got a box to house the amp and set the MusicPal on.
The cylinders are about 1.8 liters in volume each, so maybe someone will suggest how to get the best sound from them while I wait for the Psyclone to be delivered (Oct. 7th).
http://www.stootsi.com/store/item.aspx?item=55407721
A pair of full-range 3" speakers and a 15W+15W T-amp for $21 shipped...
So, I went to WallyMart to check out the boxes. Noticed that none of them fit together too well, but found what I thought would be a cool alternative in the kitchen section - cylindrical bamboo "tool holders", and bamboo banana trees. Also got a box to house the amp and set the MusicPal on.
The cylinders are about 1.8 liters in volume each, so maybe someone will suggest how to get the best sound from them while I wait for the Psyclone to be delivered (Oct. 7th).
Attachments
Do these give you ideas?
http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/indexn.cfm?project=TotallyTubular
http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/indexn.cfm?project=TotallyTubular
chicks said:
The Psyclone looks just about the right size and shape and price.
But it looks like it needs to be docked to get power.
Please continue the discussion on this if not here, in the appropriate forum (which I never get straight.)
The goal is to get sound from the sound card AC'97 of my computer motherboard to listen to streaming audio from broadband.
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