As requested on the gallery thread, here is a new thread for the di-pole front horn. Again, it should be noted that this uses a full range driver with no crossover, however, they definitely need some help from a powered sub on the bottom end. IMO, without a sub, one would be dissapointed.
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Hmm. Here's a very rough FR plot, although this doesn't account for the dipolar radiation pattern. Not bad -a kind of very large lower-midrange horn. Certainly interesting -I bet it projects vocals nicely. 
The dip over ~800Hz might be the trickiest thing to deal with -crossing to LF units should be simple enough.
Making a compound horn with these could be interesting...
The dip over ~800Hz might be the trickiest thing to deal with -crossing to LF units should be simple enough.Making a compound horn with these could be interesting...
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More listening impressions
Vocals are so good, they make you want to weep.
Incidently, the more I have listened to them, about 3 days (not continuous as much as I would like to) I believe the 800hz hump is audible. It only seems to rear its head with certain recordings however & isn't bothersome most of the time. I would say perhaps due to the dipole radiation and the big sense of space and air it creates, that one of my favorite groups, The Canadian Brass, sound incredible with these. A big horn projecting horns....duh.
BTW, we need to encourage head 1962 to post a photo of his finished pair of di-poles. They are Gorgeous!!!
Vocals are so good, they make you want to weep.
Incidently, the more I have listened to them, about 3 days (not continuous as much as I would like to) I believe the 800hz hump is audible. It only seems to rear its head with certain recordings however & isn't bothersome most of the time. I would say perhaps due to the dipole radiation and the big sense of space and air it creates, that one of my favorite groups, The Canadian Brass, sound incredible with these. A big horn projecting horns....duh.
BTW, we need to encourage head 1962 to post a photo of his finished pair of di-poles. They are Gorgeous!!!
see if this works...
anyway..
You can see them here.
http://timemachines4.blogspot.com/
If someone tells me how to attach images...
bp2.blogger.com/_eePk-f1Usdk/R-phKfMp5WI/AAAAAAAAARE/j5T1WAOVing/s1600-h/DSCN2626-1.JPG[/IMG]
bp2.blogger.com/_eePk-f1Usdk/R-pgkfMp5TI/AAAAAAAAAQs/xi1ENen-oeg/s1600-h/DSCN2623-1.JPG[/IMG]
I'll post the diagram of the 6EM7 SE today too..
anyway..
You can see them here.
http://timemachines4.blogspot.com/
If someone tells me how to attach images...
bp2.blogger.com/_eePk-f1Usdk/R-phKfMp5WI/AAAAAAAAARE/j5T1WAOVing/s1600-h/DSCN2626-1.JPG[/IMG]
bp2.blogger.com/_eePk-f1Usdk/R-pgkfMp5TI/AAAAAAAAAQs/xi1ENen-oeg/s1600-h/DSCN2623-1.JPG[/IMG]
I'll post the diagram of the 6EM7 SE today too..
Never tried any of these...
The cheaper, the less low... most of the time
The speaker is not made for huge WATTS anyway, so I'd guess you do need a HUGE sub woofer either.
Something from 150 down to 50 or so.
My Klipsch is only just on and it does not go up high enough, so there is a hole...
Something a lot smaller then the Klipsch would be more then ok.
The cheaper, the less low... most of the time
The speaker is not made for huge WATTS anyway, so I'd guess you do need a HUGE sub woofer either.
Something from 150 down to 50 or so.
My Klipsch is only just on and it does not go up high enough, so there is a hole...
Something a lot smaller then the Klipsch would be more then ok.
As suggested, I reckon you'd struggle with some of the cheaper subs. You'd need to cross over at about 200Hz, & not all that many can motor up that high -certainly not with grace. You'd be better off with a pair of 10in - 15in Eminence drivers in a suitable box or baffle & run a passive XO if you can't afford plate-amps etc.
the "SMALL" amp diagram.
Here it is!
You can build one for about 500$
The end price depends a lot on the output transformers.
Since there are no cap's in the signal way, no need to spend money here either
Use a "cheap" pot, no Alps
Save some on the Selector, no Elma
Use a plasic rectifier.
And you'r down to under 400$
I've developped a PCB, if anyone is interested..
100x160mm
Here it is!
You can build one for about 500$
The end price depends a lot on the output transformers.
Since there are no cap's in the signal way, no need to spend money here either
Use a "cheap" pot, no Alps
Save some on the Selector, no Elma
Use a plasic rectifier.
And you'r down to under 400$
I've developped a PCB, if anyone is interested..
100x160mm
Re: to be partnered with a "cheap" subwoofer ?
Actually, if you look at the photo of my di-pole horns, the two subs I'm using are the Parts Express 10 inchers. $99 each with free shipping when they have a blowout sale sometimes. I think mine have a 100 watt plate amp. I have the cutoff set at 180hz and about half way up on the gain. I'm more of a purist and generally dismiss using a sub in my 2 channel system, but stole these from my home theater system as the front horns require a sub or they sound very thin. I did try them with one sub and the sound was decent.
The front horns have now led me to search for a good DIY sub to build.
hornophile said:
Actually, if you look at the photo of my di-pole horns, the two subs I'm using are the Parts Express 10 inchers. $99 each with free shipping when they have a blowout sale sometimes. I think mine have a 100 watt plate amp. I have the cutoff set at 180hz and about half way up on the gain. I'm more of a purist and generally dismiss using a sub in my 2 channel system, but stole these from my home theater system as the front horns require a sub or they sound very thin. I did try them with one sub and the sound was decent.
The front horns have now led me to search for a good DIY sub to build.
Scottmoose said:
FWIW, here's HR's take on the FE103S dipole. Assumed is a path-length difference of 33 cm between the front/rear on axis and of course it assumes a rigid piston driver in a round horn, so not accurate above ~1310 Hz BW wise or how the high aspect ratio may affect its 'ripple':
GM
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Re: More listening impressions
Again, the aspect ratio will affect it as well as whether you're on axis or not, but apparently it does sound somewhat like it sims as noted by cervelorider, so sims aren't completely worthless if you know how to interpret them WRT how they might sound:
Fortunately, we're amplitude oriented, so dips are filled in somewhat by our brain if not too wide, especially outside our acute hearing BW. Regardless, I've experimented with dipole horns and I found them to only be viable in the lower/higher frequencies outside our acute hearing BW for a high SQ app, but as always YMMV since we each hear the same, yet not so much, so to each his own.
GM
Again, the aspect ratio will affect it as well as whether you're on axis or not, but apparently it does sound somewhat like it sims as noted by cervelorider, so sims aren't completely worthless if you know how to interpret them WRT how they might sound:
cervelorider said:
Fortunately, we're amplitude oriented, so dips are filled in somewhat by our brain if not too wide, especially outside our acute hearing BW. Regardless, I've experimented with dipole horns and I found them to only be viable in the lower/higher frequencies outside our acute hearing BW for a high SQ app, but as always YMMV since we each hear the same, yet not so much, so to each his own.
GM
Scottmoose said:Interesting plot there Greg -thanks.
I suspect that any version I did would likely be either a pure FLH, or a compound horn, but as you say, to each their own poison.
Thanks, nice to know at least one person appreciates the effort.
Yeah, AFAIK a FLH using his old WS is your only option. How would you input a compound horn?
GM
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