Fe127/Fonken driver mounting questions

[strider75]

A couple of quick questions from a novice during his first speaker project, if you will.

Given the shape of the mounting frame of the driver, it looks quite difficult to recess the driver into the baffle so it sits flush and looks decent. Is there a suggested way (short of CNC milling) to recess the driver? Would surface mounting detract from the speakers performance significantly?

Second, as I bought the drivers used, they didn't come with any gasket for between the driver and the baffle. Any suggestions on a suitable replacement? I've got some open cell weatherstrip tape that compresses to about 3/32" and a closed cell tape that compresses to approx. 1/16". Would either of these be acceptable?

I figure I need to get these things nailed down before I can cut the brace so it contacts the back of the driver properly.

[loninappleton]

The resident experts say flush mounting does not effect sound a lot on this unit so it is a cosmetic issue at this time.

I made a thread on flush mounting called 'flush mounting speakers, the whole story' which is in the 'Everything Else' section of DIY audio.

That covers all the techniques and also has the most verbal description I could manage with few pictures.

Flush mounting speakers: the whole story

Yaaay. I did a search on here that didn't fail.



Good luck with things.

The original gasketing on the FE127 is very thin foam. Bob Brines has some advice on this. Initial thought is that the thinnest 1/8 foam as a replacement should do. Bob says you don't want to 'float' the driver on the gasket but make a solid contact with the baffle to avoid vibrations. He recommends using washers under the screws on the stamped metal frame of the Fostex to avoid bending the frame.


You have made a good selection. I've used the FE127e for years
in various projects.

[strider75]

Excellent link, thanks. I did search, honestly, but didn't see that one. Still learning the ins and outs of my router, but using the frame to make a template for the odd shaped flange makes sense. Maybe next pair.

Cheers on the gasket tips, too.

Ben

[planet10]

We think flush-mounting makes a bit of difference... in Lon's flush-mount thread someone near the end mentions 3mm cork. Surface mounting the driver and then building the baffle up to meet the driver is probably superior to flush mounting.

For substitue gaskets (or just gaskets in the case of FE166e or 206) i use the widest thinnest neoprene (closed cel) weather stripping i can find. Apply the sticky side to the driver.

dave

[loninappleton]

Originally posted by strider75
Excellent link, thanks. I did search, honestly, but didn't see that one. Still learning the ins and outs of my router, but using the frame to make a template for the odd shaped flange makes sense. Maybe next pair.

Cheers on the gasket tips, too.

Ben

I was not faulting your search, *I'm* the one that has the awful time of it. Then GM has to come to the rescue.



The current issue of Fine Woodworking (Sept '08 I suppose)
has router tips and an illustration for making a pattern jig.
But you can't get away from doing the forming freehand near as I can tell.

[strider75]

Originally posted by loninappleton


I was not faulting your search, *I'm* the one that has the awful time of it. Then GM has to come to the rescue.

I know you're not giving me a hard time, no worries here. I was commenting more towards the box that you must check when starting a new thread. A good feature, really.

My new router table (yay, more toys, er, tools!) is sitting inside my front door, still in the box. Me thinks the learning curve may be a bit steep when compared to my eagerness to listen to the Fonkens, though. I'd still need to get the bushing type base for my plunge router, in order to use the method described in the post linked above.

Who's GM, BTW?

[strider75]

Originally posted by planet10
We think flush-mounting makes a bit of difference... in Lon's flush-mount thread someone near the end mentions 3mm cork. Surface mounting the driver and then building the baffle up to meet the driver is probably superior to flush mounting.

For substitue gaskets (or just gaskets in the case of FE166e or 206) i use the widest thinnest neoprene (closed cel) weather stripping i can find. Apply the sticky side to the driver.

dave

Given my construction expertise, I may surface mount the driver initially, listen to the speakers for a bit, then try the cork method. Honestly, I've never heard a pair of single driver speakers, so this will all be a learning experience.

Re the gasket, I found a sheet of 1/16" neoprene gasket material that I'm going to cut gaskets out of for the drivers. I'm thinking it'll reduce the possibility of bending the driver frame over using the close cell tape since I won't have to torque the mounting screws as much to get the driver tight to the baffle.

[loninappleton]

Originally posted by strider75



I know you're not giving me a hard time, no worries here. I was commenting more towards the box that you must check when starting a new thread. A good feature, really.

My new router table (yay, more toys, er, tools!) is sitting inside my front door, still in the box. Me thinks the learning curve may be a bit steep when compared to my eagerness to listen to the Fonkens, though. I'd still need to get the bushing type base for my plunge router, in order to use the method described in the post linked above.

Who's GM, BTW?

Aside from regular magazine reading, I have only found one superior book on router tables. That's the one by Bill Hylton:

http://product.half.ebay.com/Bill-Hy...40678QQtgZinfo

Also there is a router forum where they give advice on everything including deals on hardware:

http://www.routerforums.com/index.php

[planet10]

Originally posted by strider75
I won't have to torque the mounting screws as much to get the driver tight to the baffle.

Screws/Bolts on a driver should be tightened like lug-nuts on a car tyre and only tight enuff that a washer under the head won't move.

dave