WAF issues

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Hi Guy's, after redecorating and 'rejigging' the room I need to look at rehousing my FE207E's in something more..... 'discrete'?:rolleyes: (currently MLTL's)

I was thinking of building them into the dresser/cupboard in sealed cabs.... I've read that as low as 10.2L can be good for low level listening?
I can then put a SUB in the bottom of the unit and even put my FT17H tweets firing out of the top...
All hidden away nicely and good for low level listening over a meal and a bottle or two...

Any advice or experiance would be greatly appreciated on this issue:D
 
That has been discussed but they are rather big for the room and I can't put them in the corners were they are now. No pictures to hand at the mo..
I've had my way for nearly two years now so it's time for a change ‘she’ reckons.
I’ll keep the cabs in the loft for a rainy day……
It might be fun to get this arrangement working anyway, they would be at head height when seated….
 
I found a thread on another forum talking about a similar situation using them as a home cinema system. 10.2L cabs with the sub crossed in at about 80hz.
It sounds like it may just work especially at the volumes I normally get to listen at:rolleyes:
One thing I am worried about is the beaming of these drivers, currently they are toed in quite dramatically......
 

GM

Member
Joined 2003
Right, while you're moving in the right direction of sub/sat with the 206E IMO, any driver with a rising response will need a contour shaping network if mounted perpendicular to the listening position to flatten its response, necessitating a tweeter to get an acceptably wide/flat power response.

GM
 
GM said:
Right, while you're moving in the right direction of sub/sat with the 206E IMO, any driver with a rising response will need a contour shaping network if mounted perpendicular to the listening position to flatten its response, necessitating a tweeter to get an acceptably wide/flat power response.

GM

..... and I have a couple of FT17H's sat on top of them at the moment so it sounds as if this could work... but I'm gonna need some help here if you dont mind chaps.... this really isn't something I know how to simulate:(
I do have them bi-amped with two T-amps at the moment as well.... it was easier when getting the balance just right.
This sub is going to be completely new ground for me as well, the only one I've ever switched in was off a computer setup and I only used it for very low frequencies..... once I got my amp/MLTL's sorted I didn't need it anymore.

Edit:
Hold the phone... I think was you who I was reading on another thread GM...?
 
OK I've been having thoughts about the beaming issue as the closest listening position will be about 1.5M away...
Should I go for ear level and put 'light bulb' phase plugs in there...... or should I go for above ear level? More like standing ear level?
Also, if anyone could recomend a suitable and cost effective sub driver/design it would be very much appreciated.

I am also wondering if I could actually disguise the whole thing within the cabinet? i.e build the unit around the existing cabs?.... Now that might work but the front baffle wouldn't be a flat face like it is now... would that matter too much?

Cheers
 
Greets!

Well, we don't have a clue what the details are of your proposed layout, so for now all I'll say is you need to make a scale drawing of your room and draw whatever beamwidth angle covers the listening area at preferably all channel locations or at least the three screen wall ones using the THX various set-up guidelines: http://www.thx.com/home/setup/index.html

Note that the goal here is to not have any early reflections above ~1 kHz, i.e. when you draw your patterns they in theory shouldn't touch any boundary (wall, ceiling, floor) until they pass behind the listening area.

Obviously, meeting this requirement without using CD horns or at least waveguides (WG) on 'FR' drivers will severely restrict the room layout, so you do the best you can in your choice of drivers (bigger = narrower beamwidth) and add throw rugs on the floor if not carpeted and hang any decorative wall coverings as required using the 'mirror' method to find the first reflection, etc.. WRT the ceiling most folks are caught between a 'rock and a hard place' due to building constraints, so typically the speakers are either put either near the floor aimed up or up high aimed down when a front projector is used depending on several variables, though personally I prefer aimed down if for no other reason than when you go to a cinema or live sound event the sound is coming from above if you don't typically sit in the balcony or bleachers.

Ideally you want the HF BW drivers at 2/3 screen height to lock in the dialogue to the actor's heads, so typically the CC either sits on top or below the screen with the mains somewhere along the screen height on each side, but at best this sucks IMO, so putting the tweeters in line horizontally is a much better compromise and if mounted across the top, then space them up so that there's enough of a gap to ~eliminate the screen's impact on the CC's response (usually found through experimentation) if you're not willing to add similar size baffle boards to the mains to tonally balance them out.

WRT mains cab sizes, sub systems and their blending when using bass management, in theory you'll use an 80 Hz 4th order XO to a powered sub system that either is < 1/3 WL/80 Hz away from the farthest driver (~54" 'as the Crow flies') or there's a separate sub system for each channel to meet this spec. The room dominates down low though: http://www.harman.com/wp/pdf/multsubs.pdf

Anyway, once you've gotten the basic layout worked out, then we can start talking particulars.

GM
 
WOW! Sorry been glued to the box this morning watching our cyclists and rowers do the business:hot:

Thanks a lot for the input and advice those plots surprised me on the 35ltr but like you say, the 13L does look good when partnered with a sub.
The setup is for a dining room with a dresser on one wall and the table on the other, this is where I do most of my listening... over a meal and a bottle of wine;)
The MLTL's used to be at the far end by the french windows, an excellent place that filled the room nicely. There are to be a couple of lounging chairs and a coffee table up there now so that's why she wants 'em moving.
They are currently against the wall where the new unit will go but this is what I want to build them into with a central sub.

Thanks again for the input chaps, very much appreciated

100M final's on... gotta go
 

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:cool: Now they are pretty cool:cool:

I like them and the wife even approves although my finances are low and I wonder what size they would be with 207E's in there?
Base response isn't too bad either but I would still need a sub in there I would think?

I was going to put big boxed canvas paintings on the wall so these would be spot on.

Thing is, if I still need a sub then would I need to bother with the spiral horn? Just a simple ported shallow box maybe?

This is getting really interesting..... thanks guys
 
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