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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NW UK
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Hi Guy's, after redecorating and 'rejigging' the room I need to look at rehousing my FE207E's in something more..... 'discrete'?
(currently MLTL's)I was thinking of building them into the dresser/cupboard in sealed cabs.... I've read that as low as 10.2L can be good for low level listening? I can then put a SUB in the bottom of the unit and even put my FT17H tweets firing out of the top... All hidden away nicely and good for low level listening over a meal and a bottle or two... Any advice or experiance would be greatly appreciated on this issue
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brisbane
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What do the current cabs look like? Post a picture.
Perhaps they can be dressed up a little. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NW UK
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That has been discussed but they are rather big for the room and I can't put them in the corners were they are now. No pictures to hand at the mo..
I've had my way for nearly two years now so it's time for a change ‘she’ reckons. I’ll keep the cabs in the loft for a rainy day…… It might be fun to get this arrangement working anyway, they would be at head height when seated…. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
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Rehouse the wife? Or is that a bit too extreme
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NW UK
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Temping.........
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NW UK
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I found a thread on another forum talking about a similar situation using them as a home cinema system. 10.2L cabs with the sub crossed in at about 80hz.
It sounds like it may just work especially at the volumes I normally get to listen at One thing I am worried about is the beaming of these drivers, currently they are toed in quite dramatically...... |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Right, while you're moving in the right direction of sub/sat with the 206E IMO, any driver with a rising response will need a contour shaping network if mounted perpendicular to the listening position to flatten its response, necessitating a tweeter to get an acceptably wide/flat power response.
GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NW UK
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Quote:
I do have them bi-amped with two T-amps at the moment as well.... it was easier when getting the balance just right. This sub is going to be completely new ground for me as well, the only one I've ever switched in was off a computer setup and I only used it for very low frequencies..... once I got my amp/MLTL's sorted I didn't need it anymore. Edit: Hold the phone... I think was you who I was reading on another thread GM...? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NW UK
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OK I've been having thoughts about the beaming issue as the closest listening position will be about 1.5M away...
Should I go for ear level and put 'light bulb' phase plugs in there...... or should I go for above ear level? More like standing ear level? Also, if anyone could recomend a suitable and cost effective sub driver/design it would be very much appreciated. I am also wondering if I could actually disguise the whole thing within the cabinet? i.e build the unit around the existing cabs?.... Now that might work but the front baffle wouldn't be a flat face like it is now... would that matter too much? Cheers |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Quote:
GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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