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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Hi all,
I got a pair of very cheap "woofers". I put "woofer" between quotation marks because they have a Qts of 1.009......... not much of a woofer, èh ? Anyway, here are the rest of the T/S parameters: Diameter 8" Revc=7.9 Ohm Fo=47.634Hz Sd=15.416msqM BL=3.851TM Qms=4.621 Qes1.291 Qts=1.009 No=0.376% SPLo=87.8dB Vas=46.507mcuM Cms=1.378mM/N krm=170.017uOhm Erm=1.003 Mms=8.101g Mmd=7.000mkg Kxm=2.701mH Exm=0.792 Now, there are not much options with a driver like this, except open baffle / dipole frames. Now I got a nice 8" FR speaker (vintage Onkyo) to put above it, so I'd like to make a U-frame with the "woofer" near the floor, and the Onkyo at approx. 90cm. from the ground (ear-level-when-seated). I was thinking something like the sketch below. Who van help me on the dimensions ? Cheers, Empee
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In the end, all is good If it's not good, it's not the end |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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MJK used 7.5" deep frames in his article about them. I used folded wings of the same depth for awhile with my RS100s (~3" aluminum Dayton drivers) and they helped the little driver hit 70Hz with reasonable slam. I figure if you're using real wood and just want stock pieces to use, 8" lumber should be just fine (really 7.75" since everything is planed down at the mill). And I like your design. You'll get good reinforcement from the floor, and as long as you're sitting back from the speakers a bit, integration should be fine. Also, it kinda looks like a cheapo Orion
Kensai |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ontario
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I modeled the driver using MJK's MathCad worksheet for U-frames. I would suggest that the U-frame be 10" x 10", 6" deep (inside dimensions) using a 2nd-order Linkwitz-Riley xover at 150 Hz. The actual rolloff will occur at 300 Hz at roughly 7 dB per octave. At the low end the rolloff will occur at around 50 Hz. Bad news is that the sensitivty of the combination driver/U-frame will low at roughly 80 dB/watt.
You'd probably be better off going with a larger OB, and as Kensai notes, with "wings" by the woofer. It won't go quite as deep but will be more sensitive. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Hi all !
thanks for the replies ! In the mean time I read a lot of sheets by MJK and others, and found that the so-called "woofer" isn't the best option 'cause it's sensitivity is far less that the fullrange 8"... Yes I could temper the fullranger but since I play with SE pentodes with about 4watts I do not see the point in doing that. Now I got a pair of 15", unbranded, but measurement (by myself) say a Qts of 0,35, Fs of 25... Maybe I could use that on bottom, although I understand a high Qts is better suited for OB. Maybe I could get the Qts up with a series resistor on that 15" woof ? Cheers ! Empee
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In the end, all is good If it's not good, it's not the end |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ontario
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Quote:
Adding a series resistor can bring up the Qts but will also lower the sensitivity of the driver. I don't have access to the MJKs worksheets right now but it wouldn't surprise me if the resister had to be greater than 10 ohms. |
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