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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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...and I thought it might be useful for molding my own fibreglass horns.
I donīt know if the shape matches any known horn flare but it sure looks good The throat diameter is 5,2cm, mouth dia. 38 cm and length 22cm. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I am convinced, that it will perform well.
Many years ago a friend of mine used similar shaped IKEA lamps in two different sizes, one for the midrange and the smaller one for hirange. He used the lamps directly glueing some damping pads on the outside to prevent them from ringing. He added a baffle around the horn mouth too. The lamps were driven by Dynaudio units without pressure chamber, tweeter was D21, midrange don't know maybe D76 ... He replaced the mid and tweeter horn of his original Klipsch corner Horn . He built a decent crossover and got the new mid-high units out of the corner ... Useless to say, that the original Klipschorn sounded like ridiculous crap compared to the IKEA horn ... Cheers |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Quote:
GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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Thanks!
Iīm working on turning the lamp into a useful plug by adding some MDF parts and lots of Plastic padding filler. The plan is to make it more "Tractrix-ish" by expanding the mouth slightly, itīs a bit hard to explain but I will post pictures when Iīm done. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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This project is now abandoned, my first attempt went straight to hell and the plug was ruined in the process.
Better luck the next time... |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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Success!
This time I used an old horn speaker from the thirties as a plug: |
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#7 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Nice job. Did you use multiple layers of light ( 1 oz.) cloth?
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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Thanks!
The horn is still thin as an eggshell, so I will add several more layers of fibreglass + plywood bracings on the outside. I used light woven cloth to get the throath right and then 10oz mat for the rest. In retrospective it would have been better to use woven cloth all over. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Norway, -north of the moral circle..
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Hi Fuling....
Are you going to use the new cast as a mould for the real things??? For sake of appearance, you should cast the real horns on the outside of a polished mould, - that will give you a smooth inside flare, which is the most visible partof the horn. I have been thinking about this for quite some time, but neve got around to doing something with it. Some will say fibre glass casts cannot be used doe horns, as they will ring too much....I thinkit is fairly easy to damp the outside, to prevent ringing....cork strips, etc. A few weeks ago I came across a liquid rubber product, used for roofing...( called "Gummitett" in norwegian ).. like thick paint.. Should work OK for damping the outside of the horn, If at all necesseary.......... Nice idea! |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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Quote:
Nope, the cast is the real thing. So far this is very much a "for fun" project just to get an idea of how to do it (and make some noise along the way). Later on Iīm planning to make a plug for a properly designed horn and build something serious out of it. Using carbon fibre cloth, epoxy resin and proper vacuum techniques would be completely awesome for a project like this, but the materials involved are horribly expensive and vacuum bagging a horn would be a mess... |
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