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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Hi to all!
Has anyone tried "Rehdeko cone treatment" or other similar (NOT "EnABL") cone treatments with 8 inches fullrangers? here is Weber Rehde's patent description: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4100992.html I have Fostex FE206E. This particular driver suits my needs very well, almost perfectly BUT it has a big problem it is sharp nasty ringing (=howling) resonance at around 2.8 kHz. I know that it is a break-up resonance of the main cone - not of the whizzer I wonder how it could be effectively treated. best regards, graaf |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Quote:
GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Hi,
i used "Ponal" as coating for paper cones with good results. Another possibility is to use a small aluminium pipe, bend it as a ring to stabilize the cone along a certain radius. Use an appropriate glue, not too hard and only very little amount . You can use a piece of a toothpick e.g. to close the ring tightly. In both cases it is useful to know, how the breakup mode looks like. I have used cork powder to visualise it with some success so far ... The "Ponal" wood glue applied to the whole cone ia a good broadband "quietener" but to do selective damping or bracing to save moved mass is preferable. If the picture you have posted shows the breakup mode correctly, maybe an alu ring stabilizer placed slightly outside the phase coherent center of the cone would work - just a gut feeling ... Cheers |
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#4 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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thanks You GM and LineArray for Your interest and suggestions
Quote:
what I found most interesting is that He recommended coating of only part of cone area, sometime only a small part I have made some tries with Fostexes and the posted pattern is mostly similar to the one I used mine looks more like the "radioactivity symbol" and coated cone surface area more or less equals the uncoated I chosed it because I wanted an asymmetric pattern - I read somewhere that it is good to break the symmetry of the cone because most harmful are axis-symmetric modes Quote:
I chose it after some tries on sheets of paper. The cyanoacrylic glue seemed to penetrate the paper best and to stiffened it most Weber Rehde recommended "varnish of cellulose type" (nitrocellulose) I have tried nitrocellulose based nail varnish on sheet of paper and it seemed to work less effective than cyanoacrylic glue Unfortunately I cannot do any genuine measurements but a "measurement" I did using DEQ2496 RTA function and ECM8000 showed that after the treatment of the FE206E resonant frequency response peak got a bit smaller and shifted from around 2.8 to around 4 kHz audibly it certainly became less offensive but not enough, therefore I think what can be done next/better Quote:
Have You tried Stabilon and Vinylflex paper cone treatments offered by Intertechnik Deutschland? they are both polyvinylacetate based but the first is said to be a stiffener and the second to be a dampener what about treating of half of the cone surface with stiffener and the rest with dampener? what do You think? best, graaf |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Quote:
Hi, i found that thinking too much about cone treatment, breakup modes and coating drives me mad. I modified lots of drivers and basically i think that someday you will end up with building drivers by yourself. An 8 inch fullrange will inevitably suffer from breakup to a certain extent. I basically think you cannot win using a stiffener. With a paper cone, a dampener is the way to go. Most paper is stiff and has little damping, you have to add what is missing to get a composite material with better habits. "Ponal" introduces some stiffness but is mainly a dampener. If you bend a sheet of coated paper and watch how it goes back into its shape, you get a feeling how much damping is introduced by the coating. One way might be to make a foam of the coating material to increase the thickness of the coat and keeping mass low ... When moved mass is an issue, i think it is preferable to coat only near the surround, but i have litte experience with fullrangers. For most bass and midrangers a total area coating will give best results IMO. With some drivers i had good results introducing slots into the cone and then closing them with a dampener ... Very expensive experiments, maybe get some cheap and evil sounding drivers to practice ... At present i do not want to spend much time in modifying drivers anymore, i think it is better to use drivers of smaller size. Unsufficiently damped breakup modes are worst in the nasal to precence region from 1-6 Khz, if you find a driver which behaves well in that range one can tolerate some uncontrolled breakup at higher frequenies. Since you cannot supress breakup totally in my present fullrange design i use multple drivers and balance them taking advantage of the tolerances of individual drivers. Using that method i obtained the best results ever, thereby keeping the need for compensation in the XO at minimum. Cheers |
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#6 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
isn't it reasonable to move it higher? in case of my FE206E moving it from around 2.8 kHz to around 4 kHz was certainly beneficial to the sound quality Quote:
but I need one fullrange driver to fulfill my "room/loudspeaker interface" design priorities best regards, graaf ps. any more experience with coating of fullrangers anyone? help please! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I use liquid bitumen
With a very thin cone you may have to stiffen it first with something hard first But be aware of likely loss of sensitivity Also such FR drivers usually have very small voicecoil with short Xmax which may not be able to deal with the exstra weight and new lower Fs |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Quote:
i think it is a success to move the breakup from 2.8 to 4 Khz, if it was a midranger then the difference would be between nasty and perfect. But i think in your case the resonance must have become less prominent too, otherwise you would not feel it sounds better now. Moving resonance up in frequency is a way to go for midrangers but what to do with a fullranger ? If it is a whizzer cone design, maybe moving a resonance above the mechanical XO of the whizzer works well ... so in some cases stiffener would be in the race again, don't know. |
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#9 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
fortunately it has "some" damping interesting papers on physical properties of diaphragms: http://www.fostexusa.com/support/pdf...hite_paper.pdf http://www.infinitysystems.com/home/...apers/cmmd.pdf these are manufacturer information brochures of course, nevetheless presented facts and measurements are interesting (especially in the Fostex brochure)) Quote:
this seems to be "the way to go" with a fullranger Quote:
on the other hand I wonder why it has become less prominent. Is it a matter of added damping? or perhaps the diaphragm itself has more damping at this higher frequency? or perhaps this is a benefit of introducing of an assymetrical pattern in the diaphragm? best, graaf |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
taking the image attached to the first post as an example - treating the grey coloured parts with stiffener and the rest with dampener? or the other way round? or yet different - treating the grey coloured part in the center with stiffener and the radial coloured parts with dampener leaving the rest untreated? or the other way round? so many options does the theory of cone diaphragm suggest best/optimal one? has anybody tried such an approach? best, graaf |
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