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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Most back loaded horns expand in only on dimension, have many folds, and are a hybrid horn/TL/bass reflex design. I am experimenting with a pair of Fostex FE126E drivers in different enclosures and plan on building a relatively compact and efficient design for a small room listening environment.
The design would use the principle of the cochlea in the human ear, but operate in reverse with the driver replacing the "sensor" and be back loaded. It would essentially mechanically filter high frequencies and amplify low frequencies. Why the Inner Ear is Snail-Shaped Short article with scientific link http://focus.aps.org/story/v17/st8 Coiled like a tuba instrument, it would expand exponentially. It could be made with paper mache with 20 gauge steel wire forming the skeleton. Wood glue would be used for strength. Damping should be similar to MDF, but it would need to be built up in layers. Has anyone tried this before? Also, how is the compression chamber volume and throat area determined for maximum efficiency? Using the same principles, theoretically it could also be made into a 1/2 wave mass loaded transmission line with a sealed end like the B & W Nautilus. Not sure of the effectiveness of this though. |
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#2 | ||||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Quote:
Folds are a double edged sword. They're the enemy of absolute efficiency; however, they can be useful too. A perfectly smooth expansion is not automatically going to be an advantage. Most designs expand only in one direction a) because it's easier for most DIYers and b) given that they're bass-horns, the added potential distortion / standing waves aren't as much of an issue down in the LF where our hearing sucks, as it would be in the midband. Quote:
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Thanks Scott. I read some of the recent posts and read MJK's quarterwave website. I played with Hornresp software and even with instructions, could not understand it. Yes, a true horn action would be too large for even a very small room. I looked at plans on the Frugalhorn website, and it is difficult to know the advantages of each design other than looks and size. It seems few have built enough different designs for direct comparison.
Currently, the FE126E drivers are in 6.7L bass reflex enclosures tuned to 92Hz (-3dB at 90Hz). I am using this as a starting point for comparison. The Fostex recommended simple bass reflex design tuned for 61Hz seems very low, especially considering the average parameters measured by Planet10 (Fs = 92Hz). Overall, they sound very good from about 200 Hz to 15KHz. Beyond subjective listening, I do not have the equipment to do a frequency response measurement. Would the best compromise be a 1/4 wave TL with some sort of horn action, i.e. flared mouth? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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FWIW, the best compromises for the FE126E (IMO) are either
a) a long path, high gain horn -but not taken too low. Or b) Get it in either a baffle or sealed box, and support everything below about 500Hz with a suitable 15in HE woofer. Yeah, the number of boxes on the FH site are a bit confusing -we'll have to have a bit of a tidy up at some point I reckon. Pick of the bunch on there for the 126, in no particular order are probably the Frugel-horn itself, Ron's A126, or the Saburo cabinets. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Appleton, WI
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As a reminder, there was that one made of PVC-- not the seraphim at
the TL site --but another stand mount PVC horn made in sections.... there were even plans on how to make it, but I tried to find the link and couldn't come up with it. Line length winds up to be about 81 inches or so. Very sculptural. I can't remember if the FE126 was used. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yea, I remember that one, http://tpluspod.com/rtl/fostex%20PVChorn.html
pvc horn. using fostex 108ez |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Appleton, WI
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Interesting application of pvc pipe for straight transmission line.
I suppose you could do all the length calculations and approximate, but could you also tune it by ear? I.e., mount the driver on a baffle at one end of a mass loaded Sonotube. Then make a sliding baffle with a 2" port at the other end. Basically three mdf discs, 1 slightly smaller than pipe with firm weatherstrip around the circumference for a press fit sandwiched between 2 discs same size as the pipe. Apply a signal to the driver one octave below Fs (or lowest possible) using a frequency generator and tune for maximum resonance by sliding the rear baffle. Keep in mind I have yet to build a TL speaker, so this is theoretical. Seems very simple to do though. A friend tuned his piano by starting with a tuning fork as a reference and adjusting the strings successively along the music scale by listening to interference created when sounds were not at 1/2 octave intervals. However, he is an engineer and violinist with a good ear. |
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#9 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Aangus says he is going to have his Harveys for us to hear at the upcomong diyFEST. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Really?!? Now that is surprising. In a positive way of course.
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