On my way home from work last night, I picked a single, working E-V LT-12 out of the garbage. It was bolted into a Cerwin-Vega cab. Cab's trashed, tho the tweeter might still be good.
This is a pretty nice coaxial driver, now I'm the market for a mate. I have plans on putting them into OB with some other 12" drivers to up the bass.
Anybody have one before I resort to eBoy?
This is a pretty nice coaxial driver, now I'm the market for a mate. I have plans on putting them into OB with some other 12" drivers to up the bass.
Anybody have one before I resort to eBoy?
After some listening, I found that the tweeter would keep dropping out. The tweeter comes back if I raise the volume for a brief period. Hopefully, it is just a bad cap.
I removed the back of the driver to find the crossover as there was no instruction or other information online. I used a pocket knife to lift off the back. It was glued into place and didn't take much effort.
For the benefit of others this is the back of a Wolverine LT-12 with the crossover exposed. The cap is 3uf 25v.
I removed the back of the driver to find the crossover as there was no instruction or other information online. I used a pocket knife to lift off the back. It was glued into place and didn't take much effort.
For the benefit of others this is the back of a Wolverine LT-12 with the crossover exposed. The cap is 3uf 25v.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yep. Had a pair of these. On mine the caps were electrolytics, which got changed to poly's. The switch seems like a weak link and could carbon up. Interestingly simple crossover, if I recall, the switch changed the resistance parallel to the tweeter (after the cap).
I fiddled with them and built 2 way crossovers and tried a L-pad on the tweeter, and decided I liked them better just rolling off the tweeter. Mine had a peak around 6-7k (woofer cone break-up I'll guess) which I found I could null by reversing the tweeter phase, but the sound was "wrong". And lowering the crossover to reduce the peak didn't seem to work. A notch filter might have worked but I'm not that good.
So I eventually went back to something similar to the original. Got rid of the switch and installed binding posts (externally) so I could easily switch the resistor parallel to the tweets. I think I was using around 5 ohm Mills. Good luck.
Scott
I fiddled with them and built 2 way crossovers and tried a L-pad on the tweeter, and decided I liked them better just rolling off the tweeter. Mine had a peak around 6-7k (woofer cone break-up I'll guess) which I found I could null by reversing the tweeter phase, but the sound was "wrong". And lowering the crossover to reduce the peak didn't seem to work. A notch filter might have worked but I'm not that good.
So I eventually went back to something similar to the original. Got rid of the switch and installed binding posts (externally) so I could easily switch the resistor parallel to the tweets. I think I was using around 5 ohm Mills. Good luck.
Scott
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