It's still set up as a 4' X 6' OB. I replaced the PHL 18" drivers
with some Taiwanese OEM 18" that I got - light paper cones
with big magnets and voice coils. Much better due to the lighter
mass and the very low resonant frequency. As a result I'm
going to stick with these for a while.
I need to finish documenting these and the crossover performance,
and then the Lowther PM6A Ticonal/16 ohm silvers go in for another
comparison against the D9nf's.
After that, the PM6A without Ticonal, and PM6A's stock and the
Moths.
Probably then the D55's / A55's / C45's
The the SEAS Exotics
Then all the Audio Nirvanas.
Then the Fostex 166E, 166E with the bih magnets, and the 206E's
Then I'm going to start cutting the baffle width down in 6 inch increments
and experimenting with foam side diffusors.
It's going to be a long fall and winter....
with some Taiwanese OEM 18" that I got - light paper cones
with big magnets and voice coils. Much better due to the lighter
mass and the very low resonant frequency. As a result I'm
going to stick with these for a while.
I need to finish documenting these and the crossover performance,
and then the Lowther PM6A Ticonal/16 ohm silvers go in for another
comparison against the D9nf's.
After that, the PM6A without Ticonal, and PM6A's stock and the
Moths.
Probably then the D55's / A55's / C45's
The the SEAS Exotics
Then all the Audio Nirvanas.
Then the Fostex 166E, 166E with the bih magnets, and the 206E's
Then I'm going to start cutting the baffle width down in 6 inch increments
and experimenting with foam side diffusors.
It's going to be a long fall and winter....
Nelson Pass said:It's still set up as a 4' X 6' OB.
The the SEAS Exotics
....Then I'm going to start cutting the baffle width down in 6 inch increments
and experimenting with foam side diffusors....
Yeah...since I am interestted in a 20" x50" baffle, with something like Fe206 on top...uhm...next summer?
Just kidding. These OB's are addictive. And we wanna fly higher...but! My ceiling is only so high, and my room is small...
And my wife is giving me a bad look sometimes: "You are STILL fiddling with THOSE speakers?" Ehm..what can I do...
So I may take a turn and build some BiB's...if nothing else, they can stay close to the wall..
But I will enjoy reading your OB articles....
Big thanks!
Attachments
Nelson,
I'm impressed... you're able to get that much done during the winter?? I'll consider myself lucky if I finish building up my 2A3 monos by the new year.
The driver inventory you mentioned is impressive to say the least! This easily goes beyond dedication. Looking forward to your findings and future posts here.
Regards, KM
I'm impressed... you're able to get that much done during the winter?? I'll consider myself lucky if I finish building up my 2A3 monos by the new year.
The driver inventory you mentioned is impressive to say the least! This easily goes beyond dedication. Looking forward to your findings and future posts here.
Regards, KM
Hey Nelson, have you tried treating the Lowther cones with the "Enable" process? Have you read through:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100399&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
I was skeptical until a person in town loaned me a pair. I have my Lowther DX4s mounted in Basszilla cabinets (modified to have open baffle bass as well). I was shocked at the improvement in the quality sound from the the Lowther driver due to this treatment.
If you have heard these modified drivers, what do you think?
Jon ver Halen would probably loan you a pair.
Retsel
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100399&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
I was skeptical until a person in town loaned me a pair. I have my Lowther DX4s mounted in Basszilla cabinets (modified to have open baffle bass as well). I was shocked at the improvement in the quality sound from the the Lowther driver due to this treatment.
If you have heard these modified drivers, what do you think?
Jon ver Halen would probably loan you a pair.
Retsel
I know this is kind of an Open Baffle thread using Feastrex-Lowther-Fostex and don't get me wrong I like open baffle projects too, therefore I am probably coming from left-field, but instead of building a huge 4' x 6' baffle in order for the bass response to go from 180Hz (in a 2' baffle) to 80 Hz (in a 4' baffle) - why not just put the Lowther or whatever driver in about a 30 litre BR box?
My own simulations using WIN-ISD with a Lowther DX-3 or PM2A TICONAL show that they can reach about 85 Hz @ -3dB in a 30L box. In my opinion, Lowthers are already such lovely, open and transparent sounding speakers (and because they don't really 'excite' the box much), they do not suffer much from being put in a box. A 30L BR box is a much more room friendly size for essentially the same result from a 4' x 6' baffle.
It may sound like sacrilege, but I'm wondering how a Feastrex driver would sound in a well contstructed BR box? Certainly with Lowthers IME, it doesn't seem to do them too much harm.
I'm running Lowthers with a Raven R-2 ribbon cutting in at 15kHz plus two outboard 10" TL woofer modules ...the result is right up there with the best, IMHO.
Regards,
Steve M.
System Pics: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1146370182&view
My own simulations using WIN-ISD with a Lowther DX-3 or PM2A TICONAL show that they can reach about 85 Hz @ -3dB in a 30L box. In my opinion, Lowthers are already such lovely, open and transparent sounding speakers (and because they don't really 'excite' the box much), they do not suffer much from being put in a box. A 30L BR box is a much more room friendly size for essentially the same result from a 4' x 6' baffle.
It may sound like sacrilege, but I'm wondering how a Feastrex driver would sound in a well contstructed BR box? Certainly with Lowthers IME, it doesn't seem to do them too much harm.
I'm running Lowthers with a Raven R-2 ribbon cutting in at 15kHz plus two outboard 10" TL woofer modules ...the result is right up there with the best, IMHO.
Regards,
Steve M.
System Pics: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1146370182&view
"It may sound like sacrilege, but I'm wondering how a Feastrex driver would sound in a well contstructed BR box? Certainly with Lowthers IME, it doesn't seem to do them too much harm.
I'm running Lowthers with a Raven R-2 ribbon cutting in at 15kHz plus two outboard 10" TL woofer modules ...the result is right up there with the best, IMHO."
I have never tried my Lowthers in a "box." I started with them in Hedlund Horns and now I have them in open baffles.
There are three reasons that I have thought of which probably contribute to why the sound from my Lowthers is better in open baffles.
The first is that the compression chamber of the Hedlund Horns causes early reflections to radiate back through the cone that results in a short delayed echo - a type of distortion.
The second is that the backpressure caused by the compression chamber reduces the dynamics (comperesses the sound) of the driver.
The third is that the backpressure causes the very light paper cone to deflect, increasing distortion.
All of these items are avoided by putting the Lowthers in open baffles, and I would think that you would find open baffles superior to BR boxes as well for these very same reasons.
One issue is that the backwave of open baffle speakers needs to be managed to protect the integrity of the open baffle sound.
Have you tried open baffle speakers?
Retsel
I'm running Lowthers with a Raven R-2 ribbon cutting in at 15kHz plus two outboard 10" TL woofer modules ...the result is right up there with the best, IMHO."
I have never tried my Lowthers in a "box." I started with them in Hedlund Horns and now I have them in open baffles.
There are three reasons that I have thought of which probably contribute to why the sound from my Lowthers is better in open baffles.
The first is that the compression chamber of the Hedlund Horns causes early reflections to radiate back through the cone that results in a short delayed echo - a type of distortion.
The second is that the backpressure caused by the compression chamber reduces the dynamics (comperesses the sound) of the driver.
The third is that the backpressure causes the very light paper cone to deflect, increasing distortion.
All of these items are avoided by putting the Lowthers in open baffles, and I would think that you would find open baffles superior to BR boxes as well for these very same reasons.
One issue is that the backwave of open baffle speakers needs to be managed to protect the integrity of the open baffle sound.
Have you tried open baffle speakers?
Retsel
KevinHeem said:
It's pretty clear that you need a big room for big baffles. I have a 30' X 30'
room with a vaulted ceiling, so I can get away with larger baffles.
Even so, it appears that the 4' X 6' baffles are bigger than I want, but I won't
be cutting them down until I've tried a few more things while I have them.
It looks to be like the sweet spot will be around 3' wide by 5' to 6' high. I've
had 2' X 4', but if you were going 2' wide, I would still recommend trying 5' high.
First Watt and Lowther at RMAF
Hi Nelson
I listened to Jon's setup at RMAF this year... Very nice, actually I loved it.
And it got me thinking... Yes me thinking is dangerous. What if I swapped out the PM6 with the Feastrex 9Dnf?
I found butcher block tabletop from Lumber Liquidators... Good price for 1.5" x 24" x 72"... under 200 bucks each at their door. So I would use Jon's size, 18" x 40"...
The Tone Tubbies in the bottomand using Jon's simple Xover... I think Jon said the Xover was set at about 200 cycles.
I have built the Maiko's for the 5Dnf as well as the Freddies. (Freddies better with solid spruce)
The 9Dnfs are sitting in their boxes waiting for the numbers from Hal and myself. Speaker Testing is not real high on my list of things to do.
So do you think this is a Reasonably good idea?
Phil
Santa Fe
Hi Nelson
I listened to Jon's setup at RMAF this year... Very nice, actually I loved it.
And it got me thinking... Yes me thinking is dangerous. What if I swapped out the PM6 with the Feastrex 9Dnf?
I found butcher block tabletop from Lumber Liquidators... Good price for 1.5" x 24" x 72"... under 200 bucks each at their door. So I would use Jon's size, 18" x 40"...
The Tone Tubbies in the bottomand using Jon's simple Xover... I think Jon said the Xover was set at about 200 cycles.
I have built the Maiko's for the 5Dnf as well as the Freddies. (Freddies better with solid spruce)
The 9Dnfs are sitting in their boxes waiting for the numbers from Hal and myself. Speaker Testing is not real high on my list of things to do.
So do you think this is a Reasonably good idea?
Phil
Santa Fe
here is the study on baffle size/shape you might find interesting
http://www.petoindominique.fr/php/planspirale.php
http://www.petoindominique.fr/php/planspirale.php
Re: Re: First Watt and Lowther at RMAF
It's a start in the right direction: http://www.gokudo.co.jp/Vanguard/index/hayashi 0891.jpg
GM
Nelson Pass said:
It's a start in the right direction
: http://www.gokudo.co.jp/Vanguard/index/hayashi 0891.jpgGM
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