I have about 50 hours on a pair of Fe127e's and they seem to be opening up nicely. Nice imaging with a good amount of bass and the mids are as most say, very clear. When comparing them to the W3-871s, the highs are still definitely better on the little TB's. The highs on the 127e's still have a lot of "sssss" sound to them. I know they have a lot more burn in in time left but will that clear up as time passes?
You might need to add BSC. I found they had a tad too much upper energy for my likings until I added about 2dB BSC. See what I mean about this circuit that's added.
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/Fostex-FE127E-Bass-Reflex/index.htm
One other thing is that top end can depend on partnering equipment. Others have much more experience with this driver so should be able to tell you about any long term SSSSS.
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/Fostex-FE127E-Bass-Reflex/index.htm
One other thing is that top end can depend on partnering equipment. Others have much more experience with this driver so should be able to tell you about any long term SSSSS.
rabbitz said:
Additional driver break-in is not going to change anything above 500 Hz. But as you get more bass, the top won't seem as bright.
As mentioned, you likely need a BSC. Here is a online calculator you can use to size a
speaker baffle step compensation circuit. The amount of attenuation you need will be room and amplifier dependent. In general, a solid state amp is going to require more correction than a tube amp.
Other tricks include moving the speakers closer to the wall and toeing them in.
What type of enclosure and amp are you using? Post some pictures too!
rabbitz said:
I notice it using both my T-amp and my Pioneer home theater amp.
planet10 said:
You're reffering to the EnABL process? - It is interesting but I don't know enough about it to understand how it works. Does the added driver coating and the "dots" improve the high end or does it add more bass. Does the process affect sensitivity?
gmilitano said:
Additional driver break-in is not going to change anything above 500 Hz. But as you get more bass, the top won't seem as bright.
As mentioned, you likely need a BSC. Here is a online calculator you can use to size a
speaker baffle step compensation circuit. The amount of attenuation you need will be room and amplifier dependent. In general, a solid state amp is going to require more correction than a tube amp.
Other tricks include moving the speakers closer to the wall and toeing them in.
What type of enclosure and amp are you using? Post some pictures too!
Thanks for the link, very helpful tool for experimenting and learning. My speakers are already about 10 inches from the back wall and slightly toed in. I'd prefer to stay away from adding any kind of filter as I feel it takes away from the simplicity of a single driver but I'll wait to hear how they sound after another 100-150 hours or so. They still sound great, I'm just trying to get them closer to their full potential.
Right now they're just in some simple .25cu ft boxes. I already have larger cabinets on my mind. I'm still going to keep it simple and I'd like to utilize the wasted space taken up by my speaker stands so a not too intrusive floor stander will be next. I like the TABAQ or maybe a TQWT.
Anyway, here are my current speakers (you may have already seen these in another thread)
Attachments
type said:
No, i'm not. The pre-treatment i do before the EnABL (quite close to my previous version) is aimed at the resonance.
EnABL does something completely different (the really short description is that it drastically improves downward dynamic range).
My entire treatment causes a loss of ~1/2 dB of sensitivity.
dave
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