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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: US
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Hey!
It's been a while since I've posted (a few family / work issues have prevented such things) but I'm interested in trying the Supravox Signature Bicone in an open baffle and I was wondering if anyone had any vendor recommendations for a US purchase. The US Supravox distributor's site seems a little low on frills and may not have been updated for some time. I could try abroad, but I'm unfamiliar with any of the vendors I've seen Any recommendations? Kofi |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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The drivers look nice. Any idea on pricing? They don't look cheap. The parameters for the Supravox Signature Bicone look like they will work nice in an OB.
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DIY Audio Projects [ 10" DIY Subwoofer | FE127E Sealed Bipole | [ LM3886 Chip Amp / Gainclone | K-12M Tube Amp Kit ] |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in center
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I use 215RTF Bicone in ob.
The sound is stunning.
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"I'm glad I can build my own mistakes." |
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#4 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: US
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Quote:
Quote:
felixx-- would you share your OB dimensions? Are you using them full range or with a "helper" tweeter? Any subwoofer? OK-- so anyone know of a reputable distributor that would ship to the US? Kofi |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in center
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felixx-- would you share your OB dimensions? Are you using them full range or with a "helper" tweeter? Any subwoofer?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...02#post1194102 Also I have a pair of Fostex T925A for help...10khz upper for really full range of bandwith. The dims. on ob is not scarry: -117cm-high -41cm-wide -15cm-deep -20cm from the top to the center of the Supravox. All measurements is from exterior of the baffle.
__________________
"I'm glad I can build my own mistakes." |
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#7 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: US
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Quote:
Would you offer details on the crossover (unless you're bi-amping)? Also, what's the efficiency of the system? I'm planning to mate this with a 300b SET (~8W), so high efficiency is important for me. Quote:
I have been working ona clone of Thorsten's OB as you have done. Let me know how these turn out as this is exactly what I was going to build, but I have some bass considerations. My room is pretty big, so I think I will need some bass help to make it work. Kofi |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in center
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Quote:
I run ob's with two amps.One (stereo)-tubes-for Supravox (and I attached lately top mounted Fostex T925A-only a cap from 12khz) and an solid state-lateral mosfets -stereo for woofers. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...27#post1033827 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...71#post1310471 Also I have an active cross from 300hz-down-only for alpha's.On the Supra only a cap(300hz).Don't need notch filter for Supra. The alpha's have an Fs-41hz.With my cross. I touch 30-35hz with a little help boost....a little one and depend of the music listened in most cases. For the Alpha's the active filter looks like this: 1-Shelving high-pass filter with 6 dB gain to transition between the woofer on the floor radiating into half-space and the main panel radiating into full-space. 2-Buffer-Low impedance drive source for the following channel. 3-Low-pass filter for 12 dB/oct, 300 Hz L-R acoustic crossover. 4- +/-2.5dB - Gain adjustment with 5 dB range and precisely linear dB scale. 5-Shelving low-pass filter to equalize the 6 dB/oct roll-off of the woofer dipole response. 6- High-pass filter to block any dc offset voltage from reaching the power amplifier for the woofer. The low cut-off frequency of the high-pass filter reduces low frequency phase distortion for improved realism of bass reproduction. The operational amplifiers what I use are Burr-Brown OPA2134. This is the active 300hz cross for woofers....Linkwitz design. Eminence drivers gave my all I need in matter of bass.Soft, a little silky and good impact.The Supra gave me all the details I need -voices and instruments- extraordinary.The Fostex is amaizing....no words for that. On the pannels of the back of the baffle is glued some absorber material(0,5" max.thick),the same absorber used on the backloaded horns...Also the material on the frames front and rear is the real acoustical one.When I listen serious music I prefer to not have the front frame but that one behind... I keep it. This do the job right on that place. I use active because the deep of the baffle is 15cm and if I was going passive the dimmensions will be much more(maybe double)....see Martin King baffle-wings closed. If you going passive,seems a single L-coil still do the job but the wide of the baffle need to be larger.And from this point you need to start a new cross. I myself tryed both and the active was more closed for my preferences.The feeling is exactly like I was near on the instruments....live performance.Maybe I will try another passive in the near future.... The only care is to make sure you have at list 80-90cm behind the speaker and from the lateral speaker to the walls. Front baffle is 45mm thick and the laterals and also the base plate 22mm...MDF material.
__________________
"I'm glad I can build my own mistakes." |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: US
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Thanks for all the details! You really put a lot of great work into that and should be very proud.
Unfortunately for me, I have just been reminded of the weakness of the US dollar in attempting to order the Bicones. What was once a $600 - $700 investment would now be almost $1,000, which is significantly above Mrs. Annan's limit for projects. ---PROJECT OFFICIALLY POSTPONED UNTIL U.S. ECONOMY OR MRS. ANNAN PERMITS--- END OF TRANSMISSION KOFI |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Second hand? Although I suspect most owners hang onto theirs, so you'd have to go a-searching. Me, I need to hear a pair of their field-coils at some point.
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