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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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I'm looking for some help - I have a pair of Fostex FE167E drivers which I plan to use in a small room (6' 3" x 9' 2" with 8' ceiling). The resulting speakers will need to be mounted on the short wall (over a desk so floorstanders are out) and I will be listening from around 2-3 feet. Amp is a Trends TA 10.1.
What I would ideally like to do is build cabinets with a triangular cross section which would then fit flush into the corners. What I don't know is how to adapt the cabinet design to work with the corner placement rather than against it. Should I go for a 15l cabinet as recommended by Fostex or something a little larger? How can I avoid boomy bass or other problems normally associated with corner placement? Thanks for your help, Mark |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Cary NC
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Are you living in prison?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New York
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http://www.zillaspeak.com/systems.asp
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp My room is not much bigger. Godzilla |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Melb
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Quote:
try this site you may get a few ideas there. http://www.pispeakers.com/ the designer/owner is very helpful. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SoCal
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Quote:
![]() In all honesty I've had some full rangers sound better in the corner. The bass was slighly boomy but still better defined then what comes out of a lot of the subs these days. The FE167E normally has no bass anyways without a BSC circuit. So the recommended enclosure adapted for the corner might do fine with no correction circuit. Corner horns are sweet. There is one using the FE167E on the Decware website, but it's big and heavy. |
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#6 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SoCal
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Quote:
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#8 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-fostex.html We built a variation on the factory 15l (with lower tuning) for our initial 167e tweaking experiments.. It was good sounding and served th epurpose -- low bass is not its strong point -- and the current owner really enjoys them. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Yeah, the Fostex BR isn't bad -one of their better reflex-boxes IMO, but it doesn't extract the most out of the drivers; certainly not WRT extension.
My own 167 MLTLs are actually running sans a BSC circuit too. That said, they are pushed up against a rear wall, which helps, despite my designing them with as narrow a baffle as possible. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Thank you to everyone for the replies - I'm new to this and you've been very helpful.
I don't expect miracles from this compromised room, but would like to make the best out of the situation. As far as bass goes my only reference is listening to typical small standmount speakers which list frequency reponse low numbers of around 65/70Hz. I wouldn't want less bass than this type of speaker. I've plotted a couple of boxes in WinISD - a 15l sealed box gives a Q of 0.57, as advised by planet10. Am I right in saying that I could start sealed and simply add a port later if necessary? Also, should I build the triangular cross section cabinet with a narrow baffle (equilateral triangle) or a wider baffle (right triangle) - what affect does baffle width have? Thanks again, Mark |
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