So I'm still looking at all these plans trying to decide what to build. I still am considering the Fonken Floorstander and the Meliva but I also think taper pipes are so cool looking and look very easy to build.
I've googled fe127e and a bunch of things and can only find folded pipe designs.
Anyone know of an unfolded pipe design for it or similar driver (that's still made; there's tons of plans online of RatShack drivers no longer made) a MLTL or TQWP kinda of enclosure.
I looked at this page--
https://mywebspace.wisc.edu/jstalnak/web/VoightPipeSpeakers/#TQWT
but the small designs are for that RatShack driver.
I image allow I really need to know is how the calculate the length, the base area, and the area of the port. Anyone have a spreadsheet for that? I found the one for the BIB and one for folded pipes but not straight.
I've googled fe127e and a bunch of things and can only find folded pipe designs.
Anyone know of an unfolded pipe design for it or similar driver (that's still made; there's tons of plans online of RatShack drivers no longer made) a MLTL or TQWP kinda of enclosure.
I looked at this page--
https://mywebspace.wisc.edu/jstalnak/web/VoightPipeSpeakers/#TQWT
but the small designs are for that RatShack driver.
I image allow I really need to know is how the calculate the length, the base area, and the area of the port. Anyone have a spreadsheet for that? I found the one for the BIB and one for folded pipes but not straight.
BB's RS pipe can be used, though I recommend moving the driver up from 30" to 24" from the top and like most narrow baffle speakers it will probably require a BSC filter: http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/Straight_Pipe.html
GM
GM
It will if it's ~8 ft square. 
You will need one of the high gain BLHs to offset the LF/mid-bass/lower mids loss if not built into a wall. Then again, these little drivers by themselves really should only be critically listened to either up close and/or in a small room when tuned below ~1.6*Fs as they rapidly begin sounding 'congested' due to their low Xmax, so depending on the driver's HF response in these situations they may not need any BSC.
GM
You will need one of the high gain BLHs to offset the LF/mid-bass/lower mids loss if not built into a wall. Then again, these little drivers by themselves really should only be critically listened to either up close and/or in a small room when tuned below ~1.6*Fs as they rapidly begin sounding 'congested' due to their low Xmax, so depending on the driver's HF response in these situations they may not need any BSC.GM
http://www.zillaspeak.com/fostex127eStraightPipe.asp
I used BB's straight pipe and just swapped out the RS drivers for the 127e and they sounded better. May not be an optimal cabinet but the speakers look great and sound great too.
Godzilla
I used BB's straight pipe and just swapped out the RS drivers for the 127e and they sounded better. May not be an optimal cabinet but the speakers look great and sound great too.
Godzilla
Re: FE127 bipole TQWP
Scott's bipole Voigt pipe did sound quite fine indeed, although Dave might suggest some minor refinement to details.
There were a pair of bipole metronomes with Hemp FR4.5 played at a DIY party last year that sounded spectacular.
One other class of very easy to build enclosure that works well with the FE127E is the BIB. Although as a crude BLH, it requires corner boundary loading, and since it's fairly narrow for this driver, a suprabaffle, or BSC filter.
The Mileva is a pretty darned easy build as well, and with the wide baffle and shallow depth allowing for close wall mounting, baffle step loss is far less of an issue.
SCD said:
Scott's bipole Voigt pipe did sound quite fine indeed, although Dave might suggest some minor refinement to details.
There were a pair of bipole metronomes with Hemp FR4.5 played at a DIY party last year that sounded spectacular.
One other class of very easy to build enclosure that works well with the FE127E is the BIB. Although as a crude BLH, it requires corner boundary loading, and since it's fairly narrow for this driver, a suprabaffle, or BSC filter.
The Mileva is a pretty darned easy build as well, and with the wide baffle and shallow depth allowing for close wall mounting, baffle step loss is far less of an issue.
>>> Were the removable baffles just to swap drivers...
Yes. I find pipes to be forgiving cabinets that work well with many different drivers. Basically, i built these originally for the RS 1354 drivers but wanted more detail. I found the 127e to be a nice upgrade. Subjectively, bass went deeper and was more detailed tho the overall presentation was more forward. I am thinking of swapping drivers again and using the older fostex 168s in the straight pipes. Again, not the perfect cabinet for this driver - i enjoy swapping drivers to get a sense of their sound - sort of like tube rolling. There are better cabs more optimized for the 127e if that is your choice. Meliva and some ported boxes. A BIB would probably work great but they do look like simple (elegant) cabinets. The sloped back baffle does look great and everyone always runs their fingers across it. They look very hi-end. I would consider building one of the smaller, more optimized sloped back pipes for the 127e - stick them into corners for bass support or add a powered sub. They light up the room with sound in a nice way but they do become congested on loud music and they are light in bass. Currently i am enjoying them in the cabinets in the link below.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/fostex127eSSB.asp
And of course, here is a fantastic resource regarding the 127e and other drivers.
http://www.frugal-horn.com/index.html
Godzilla
Yes. I find pipes to be forgiving cabinets that work well with many different drivers. Basically, i built these originally for the RS 1354 drivers but wanted more detail. I found the 127e to be a nice upgrade. Subjectively, bass went deeper and was more detailed tho the overall presentation was more forward. I am thinking of swapping drivers again and using the older fostex 168s in the straight pipes. Again, not the perfect cabinet for this driver - i enjoy swapping drivers to get a sense of their sound - sort of like tube rolling. There are better cabs more optimized for the 127e if that is your choice. Meliva and some ported boxes. A BIB would probably work great but they do look like simple (elegant) cabinets. The sloped back baffle does look great and everyone always runs their fingers across it. They look very hi-end. I would consider building one of the smaller, more optimized sloped back pipes for the 127e - stick them into corners for bass support or add a powered sub. They light up the room with sound in a nice way but they do become congested on loud music and they are light in bass. Currently i am enjoying them in the cabinets in the link below.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/fostex127eSSB.asp
And of course, here is a fantastic resource regarding the 127e and other drivers.
http://www.frugal-horn.com/index.html
Godzilla
Godzilla said:
Darn, that looks easy. The comments say you shrunk the dims to fit. I looked at that thread but it's a bazillion pages long and could not find the original reference design. Can you point me in the direction of the optimum dims?
I have some reclaimed pine from some 40-yo bedroom closet shelves I took out. Nice patina and don't have to worry about warping /splitting from using new wood. If they're not more than 11.5" wide, I could get some nice stained fronts.
kvk said:
Dimensions as built:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think that DaveD has a drawing for this cabinet as well - I seem to recall cutting out parts for a flat-pak of this design a year or so ago, but can't remember the exact dimensions.
If I may, I'd suggest two details not shown in the pictures - a brace from the back of the driver magnet to the rear panel (could be a simple as a short piece of 3/4" x 3" stock), and 45dg chamfer to the backside of driver cut-out.
For some reason i remember the reference project having a box volume of .44 cubic feet.
I love the dimensions of these and the way they look.
http://www.onspeakers.com/product-reviews/stereo-speakers/omega-system-speakers-super-3-xrs.html
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/diyA-FRref-monopole.gif
This is just beautiful:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=529806&stamp=1102613660
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=969462&stamp=1153883724
This one is very cute. I wonder if you can switch the driver from the 126 to the 127e?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=534730&stamp=1103233917
There are almost too many good choices for the 127e. I'm sure they are all just variations of 'very good' and all enjoyable to listen to.
I love the dimensions of these and the way they look.
http://www.onspeakers.com/product-reviews/stereo-speakers/omega-system-speakers-super-3-xrs.html
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/diyA-FRref-monopole.gif
This is just beautiful:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=529806&stamp=1102613660
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=969462&stamp=1153883724
This one is very cute. I wonder if you can switch the driver from the 126 to the 127e?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=534730&stamp=1103233917
There are almost too many good choices for the 127e. I'm sure they are all just variations of 'very good' and all enjoyable to listen to.
I've got a Harvey up and running and still doing listening tests on that.
For the builds described and your materials on hand I would go with GMs MLTL and shown by Godzilla to get a fell for what the 127e can do.
But I'm posting here thinking of some variations to optimize the design.
This has to do with ports.
The Zilla design has side firing ports. No combining the current thread on square vs round ports, what would be the optimal tube style port and placement on the side and as close to ear level as makes sense?
The port sound radiates on the same plane as the terminus and so
radiated sound would be going more towards the ear. A cylinder seems to be the ideal shape for this rather than a port cutout.
But I've always liked the MLTL version as a reference. BIB's and Harveys can do more embellishments of sound but the MLTL is the most instrumental I've built. So I'm wondering if there are additional tweaks to make a new set.
For the builds described and your materials on hand I would go with GMs MLTL and shown by Godzilla to get a fell for what the 127e can do.
But I'm posting here thinking of some variations to optimize the design.
This has to do with ports.
The Zilla design has side firing ports. No combining the current thread on square vs round ports, what would be the optimal tube style port and placement on the side and as close to ear level as makes sense?
The port sound radiates on the same plane as the terminus and so
radiated sound would be going more towards the ear. A cylinder seems to be the ideal shape for this rather than a port cutout.
But I've always liked the MLTL version as a reference. BIB's and Harveys can do more embellishments of sound but the MLTL is the most instrumental I've built. So I'm wondering if there are additional tweaks to make a new set.
loninappleton said:
Lon - the Tom Z PAWO (somewhat similar to the Jordan VTL design, with a side firing ports - I built them as mirror imaged pairs) and more recently the Mileva (folded ML Voigt pipe with a front slot terminus loaded at the floor that adds flexibility to room placement) are also worthy of consideration.
It's hard to keep track of all the projects the seriously addicted builders have played with - have you experimented with either of those?
chrisb said:
I have my eye on the Mileva and looked at the PAWO labyrinth design
for some time but never executed it.
The idea I have at the moment is to modify the design of the GM MLTL I'm using. This takes a bit of explanation: The dimensions are the exact ones given by GM. But I made a down firing port 2 in. standard pvc x 4 in long projecting out the bottom. The stand holding this has a hole cut in it for the port and is open on 2 sides.
What I could do with one or both to move the physical location of the port to the side would be to simply plug up the bottom and use an elbow joint inside the box to get the right length. Then comes the issue of positioning the cutout. I don't believe that specialized flared ports are beneficial. The goal is to get the port terminus action closer to ear level.
A question I have with this is what effect does the side flush to the port have as opposed to the 'free air' down firing jobbie I have now (?)
That's what keeps the hobby going.
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