First time builder- micro Fonken

[scooterdad]

Hello,

I am new to the forum, and I thank many of you for teaching me a lot already through past discussions. I am attempting to build the microFonkens (thank you Dave for kindly supplying the plans!) with the FF85 K drivers.

I plan to use these as a computer/nearfield set up at my desk at work. They will come reasonably close to the hard drive on my iMac, and will be paired with an inexpensive T amp(Sonic Impact Gen 2) at least to start. I had a few questions.. hoping for some help.

1. Do I need to worry too much about my computer hard drive with the unshielded FF85K?

2. Any recommendations for mounting the drivers to the cabinet? Do I need to use some sort of tape/sealant/foam?

3. I am using baltic birch plywood 1/2 inch, and my woodworking skills are pretty rudimentary. I plan on painting the speakers some version of black to hide my mistakes. Any suggestions for an easy black finish, preferably with non-toxic or low toxicity paint?

Thanks for your help! I will add photos and listening impressions when done.

[d to the g]

Originally posted by scooterdad

I plan on painting the speakers some version of black to hide my mistakes. Any suggestions for an easy black finish, preferably with non-toxic or low toxicity paint?

This could quite possibly be the worst color choice to cover a mistake. Have you ever noticed how dirty a black car looks?

I'd suggest a dull grey, or a nice dark stain. Black is pretty hard to get right, and involves a lot of sanding.

Good luck on the build!

[gurley123]

With a little looksee around the interwebs, It seems that it should be no problem. the driver magnets will have to get through the shielding of the hard drive. Then overcome the really strong magnets in the hard drive themselves.

Here is a page that addresses it somewhat. http://www.dansdata.com/gz009.htm

Here's a pic of a pair of surplus hard drive magnets lifting a 50lb weight. http://www.wondermagnet.com/item2demo.html

Can the FF85K lift 50lbs?

[scooterdad]

Thanks for the color suggestion. Dull grey might work...

[vinylkid58]

Originally posted by scooterdad
2. Any recommendations for mounting the drivers to the cabinet? Do I need to use some sort of tape/sealant/foam?

The drivers usually come with a thin foam gasket.

Jeff

[planet10]

Most of the questions have been answered. You could use a textured paint... this is the almost universal cure-all for covering mistakes.

FF85 come with gaskets & a set of screws (philips thou -- i'll have spares because we tend to use Robertsen screws.

dave

[chrisb]

Originally posted by scooterdad
Hello,

I am new to the forum, and I thank many of you for teaching me a lot already through past discussions. I am attempting to build the microFonkens (thank you Dave for kindly supplying the plans!) with the FF85 K drivers.

I plan to use these as a computer/nearfield set up at my desk at work. They will come reasonably close to the hard drive on my iMac, and will be paired with an inexpensive T amp(Sonic Impact Gen 2) at least to start. I had a few questions.. hoping for some help.

1. Do I need to worry too much about my computer hard drive with the unshielded FF85K?

2. Any recommendations for mounting the drivers to the cabinet? Do I need to use some sort of tape/sealant/foam?

3. I am using baltic birch plywood 1/2 inch, and my woodworking skills are pretty rudimentary. I plan on painting the speakers some version of black to hide my mistakes. Any suggestions for an easy black finish, preferably with non-toxic or low toxicity paint?

Thanks for your help! I will add photos and listening impressions when done.

1) unless they're sitting right on top of the drive, I'd think an older CRT monitor would notice the flux more. Although that is a good question for anyone using an iMac, or external backup drive.

2) the stock Fostex screws (Phillips drive) will certainly work, but I prefer #6x 1/2" pan or button head square head screw.
If your driver hole is snug, the stock (very thin) gasket is adequate

3) For a tolerable black finish on BB, I use the following technique:

Fill exposed edge plys and minor chips with DAP or equivalent latex based spackle;
Sand with 180-220 G;
2 coats shellac based sealer stain hider (Zinsser BIN), sanding between coats with 220G;
3 coats of Painter's Choice semi-gloss/satin acrylic latex paint, applied with a short nap fabric roller. Black, or for that matter white or primary red/yellow isn't so much the issue, as is attempting a gloss finish, particularly on plywood. Provided you don't have ugly knots, stains or patches on the veneered panels, there's a lot to recommend a clear or lightly tinted top coat, such as:

http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/9417/img0968hu1.jpg

[ronc]

Truck bed coating.

ron

[chrisb]

Originally posted by ronc
Truck bed coating.

ron

OK for MDF, but hiding that lovely birch veneer seems like a shame

[ronc]

I am just too intregrated into industry. About the last thing i consider is appearence, if ever.
1. Will it work according to the requirements.
2. Is it cost effective.
3. Does it require trained techs.(Simplicity)
4. Will it be reliable.
.
.
.
100 . What is the appearence.

ron