Goldwood G-8003 8" Fullrange

[Carlp]

After playing with tube amps (still building them!) I'm ready to try a speaker. Fullrange at this point and I'm thinking a folded TQWT, not for any logical reasons. Anyone know this speaker or have any suggestions? I'd love to work with a 4' x 4' sheet of birch ply I have, but I'm open to ideas. I could add a tweeter per Chang's BIB mod.

Specifications: Power handling: 50 watts RMS/80 watts max
VCdia: 1-1/2"
Le: .63 mH
Impedance: 8 ohms
Re: 7.05 ohms
Frequency range: 50-20,000 Hz
Fs: 47 Hz
SPL: 87 dB
2.83V/1m
Vas: 1.01 cu. ft.
Xmax: 2.0 mm
Qms: 3.82
Qes: 1.48
Qts: 1.07
Diameter: 8", Cutout Diameter: 7-1/8", Mounting Depth: 3-1/2"

I did a search here and found only 2 threads mentioning it, and one was the 150+ page BIB thread which I just don't have time to wade through right now.

Thanks a bunch!
Carl

[Godzilla]

If you have two pieces of that ply simply cut holes in them and mount the drivers as an open baffle. That is how they will work best.

If you only have one piece of ply i wonder if 4 x 2 would be a good open baffle size for this driver? Specs suggest this driver works best in open baffle. It was probably designed to work as a ceiling speaker like the Pioneer B20.

[John L]

Originally posted by Godzilla
It was probably designed to work as a ceiling speaker like the Pioneer B20.

I think you are right. I did not know this actually existed, it doesn't appear to be in the PE catalogue.

However, if you are using tubes, you would be better off with the Pioneer B20, because it is far more efficient. And it's respose curve is less ragged.

[Nelson Pass]

Originally posted by John L
However, if you are using tubes, you would be better off with the Pioneer B20, because it is far more efficient. And it's respose curve is less ragged.

I agree - the Pioneer is smoother for a couple more $.

[John L]

Originally posted by Nelson Pass


I agree - the Pioneer is smoother for a couple more $.

Nelson, could I get your input on this project?

[Nelson Pass]

I think you should move in next door.

[ronc]

Its been my experience in DIY audio that you should start with a better driver. Saves on time and expense. You can EnABL a B20 add phase plugs dink endless with the cab, but the end result it will not sound as good as a stock FE207.
If i was to advise anyone just getting into DIY i would still suggest the Curvy Chang with the 207. Saves time and $.

ron

[Kensai]

Nelson has already addressed the comparison between the Goldwood and the Pioneer in his article on current source amplification and high efficiency full rangers. I get excellent results with the Pioneer B20 on OB, and have a hard time not believing Nelson when he says that the ~$5 difference in the cost of the two drivers is negligible compared to the difference in sound quality produced.

Don't bother with the Goldwood, especially if you're wanting to build any sort of enclosure. They really are meant for OB or IB installation and will require a huge enclosure if you went for any other sort of alignment.

ronc,

You got a set of stock FE207 you'd like to put up against that assertion? I've finally got the other half of that equation and would be more than willing to make direct comparisons for the edification of all.

Kensai

[Carlp]

Thanks for all the replies. I'd like to read Nelson Pass' comparison of the two if someone can provide the link. I'll stick with the Goldwood or Pioneer for now as I'm doing this the REAL CHEAP. If I like what I hear, I'm willing to spend more. I want to convince my wife it's really worth the trouble and time. BTW, regarding SPL, I built a 1W SET tube amp and run it through some 89dB Boston Acoustics bookshelf speakers and it's PLENTY loud for most of my listening.

Thanks again. I may consider the open baffle as well since I've always been curious about them.

Carl

[Nelson Pass]

http://www.firstwatt.com/articles/cu...ource_amps.htm