ecir38,
Were just guys, and a few girl geeks and artists. But it is the best place I have ever hung around, with dumb questions or smart ones in hand.
I missed this location earlier. It is a tutorial, pages 8 & 9.
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1429&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=105
Bud
Were just guys, and a few girl geeks and artists. But it is the best place I have ever hung around, with dumb questions or smart ones in hand.
I missed this location earlier. It is a tutorial, pages 8 & 9.
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1429&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=105
Bud
Besides the pre-coat treatment, the differences were to adjust the gloss to using coats of 50% (i felt easier to get even) and for not as much soaking into the cone because the puzzlecoat is there instead.
I've also found this template easier to use.
I generate these with the linear pattern, create a batch of 8-10 strips a little bigger & a little smaller than the traget circumference, and then cut them out one-by-one, tape them up, and try onr till it fits perfect. The shorter it can be and still be able to get it off is the right height.
dave
I've also found this template easier to use.
I generate these with the linear pattern, create a batch of 8-10 strips a little bigger & a little smaller than the traget circumference, and then cut them out one-by-one, tape them up, and try onr till it fits perfect. The shorter it can be and still be able to get it off is the right height.
dave
Attachments
planet10 said:
The bigger drivers won't necessarily sound better... i have ordered drivers to start R&D on an uberFonken thou.
dave
So, keep us in suspense ... any hints? Which driver? Is this a floorstander or a stand speaker like a regular fonken?
I'm looking for a project to start when ski season ends and I'm vacillating between one of the fonken designs and one of the monolith. A lot depends on which room I decide to put them in. The monoliths would only work against the wall in my den but tall thin floorstanders would work in either my den or living room. I'd sure like to see a 6.5" design of the Fonken Floorstander.
kvk said:
The FE127eN in the Fonken is relatively inexpensive (but a giant killer IMHO)... Fostex makes 2 more expensive drivers of the same size with similar specs... Gio's recent very positive comments on the FX120 vrs his FE127 has us exploring a Fonken with the FX120, and Jim Rebman's loan of the EnABLed F120A another variation... so these would make be FonkenSE and the uberFonken with the AlNiCo driver. Initial target is for boxes of similar size.
dave
planet10 said:
Dave, I am getting close to going foward with the pre-treatment. I went to my local Michael's today and picked up some mod podge, damar varnish and assorted brushes. I have the stuff for enabl on order.
Can you give me an idea of a ratio to cut the puzzlcoat? I am not looking for a color so I am thinking cutting with water will be fine.
It looks like the dimples for the voice coil wire do not get coated, is this correct?
One thing I have not purchased yet is the PollyS paint. Do you by chance have the number for the color that looks to be tan or brown that I have seen on some of the drivers on your site?
Oh yeah, how long should I wait between the two coats of mod podge?
Thanks
The FX 120 A is a seriously pretty sounding driver too. When finished with Jim's pair, I did apply an Electron Pool and what tiny amount of metal sizzle was still on piano chords and guitar string squeaks, just turned into natural air and resonance. Throws a great big sound stage too.
Having the EnABL'd 120's and the Hemp FR8's at the same time, allowed me to get a glimpse of what the differences between ferrite and alnico are. The Ferrite core seems faster, with more vertical transients and maybe a bit more internal information, within instruments and their voices. The Alnico is just sweet sounding. Misses some of the exactness of the ferrite, but also is a bit easier to listen to for long periods. The Hemps did wear a small bit, after a few hours.
Definitely an ad hoc, subjective comparison between two dissimilar drivers. Both are just fabulous music machines.
I would expect the ferrite 120 to be every bit as musical, but with a bit faster rise time, a bit more detail and a bit less beauty. But so deep into all of these categories, that there is hardly any reason to complain.
Bud
Having the EnABL'd 120's and the Hemp FR8's at the same time, allowed me to get a glimpse of what the differences between ferrite and alnico are. The Ferrite core seems faster, with more vertical transients and maybe a bit more internal information, within instruments and their voices. The Alnico is just sweet sounding. Misses some of the exactness of the ferrite, but also is a bit easier to listen to for long periods. The Hemps did wear a small bit, after a few hours.
Definitely an ad hoc, subjective comparison between two dissimilar drivers. Both are just fabulous music machines.
I would expect the ferrite 120 to be every bit as musical, but with a bit faster rise time, a bit more detail and a bit less beauty. But so deep into all of these categories, that there is hardly any reason to complain.
Bud
ecir38 said:
Water is what i use for natural... It is hard to give a "cut with x% of water because the consistency to start with will vary brand-to-brand and as your bottle gets used up and particularily if it takes a long time to use up. My current bottle is nearing the end, but it has taken 5+ years to use up so it might be thicker than yours. I thin it until "it is not quite runny. You want it to be thin so that you can spread it evenly and to use as little as possibble, You want the PVA to only bond and seal the top layer of paper. The 2nd coat pretty much sits on the 1st. Do not dawdle during application because if thinned right it can start setting up on one end while you are working your way around. I apply the PK by painting it around the cone, try to get it as even as possible and then go over it radially to finish off. Stop before or as it starts getting tacky, Leave 24 hrs to dry.
It is not that you don't coat them, it is that not much sticks.
Rust/F414323*. Guess that is why i got the email from Eddie Vaughn that said -- looks like rust spots on the cones. (i just think of it as brown -- choosen to better match wood colour boxes).
The Polly Scale goes off pretty quick. Make sure you clean the top before putting the top back on. You probably won't get thru an entire bottle before it turns lumpy.
dave
*(note that the colour # ends in 23, And that the sum of the digits is 17, and the sum of those 2 digits is 8 and 8 = 2^3 -- another 23. A good omen. It is just The Law of Fives. (you'll have to read The Illuminati Trilogy to understand the Law of Fives). I thot in the stead of snake oil we could have a little numerology
)
Do ya'll think it would be worth it to buy a piece of this to practice drawing blocks on. Don't have any spare drivers to play with.
http://tinyurl.com/32go8m
One sheet is 65cm x 48cm x 1mm or 25.59" x 18.89" x .039"
http://tinyurl.com/32go8m
One sheet is 65cm x 48cm x 1mm or 25.59" x 18.89" x .039"
ecir38 said:
Anything that bolsters you confidence probably can't hurt, but remember that in spite of similarities of fiber content, papers can range widely in their physical characteristic .
As Bud, Dave et al can no doubt attest from their experience with actual drivers, the absorption characteristics can vary substantially.
A very light coat of diluted gloss or Modge-podge/puzzle-coat can help control that to a degree.
Moreover, what you'll really need to practice is working in tapered / curved cone surfaces. That's where a few cheap drivers could come in handy.
The biggest thing you need to get a handle on is how the polly scale flows forom the pen tip. This is further complicated by how long it has been since you cleaned the pen tip (when i'm really rolling i get between 3/4 and 1 1/2 drivers done (for the A4 tip) between running the tip under the tap, with some wiping with paper towel and running my thumbnail under the resivoir clip, and usually a little longer with the small tip for the centre. How the paint flow reacts is also affected by weather, how old the paint is, the actual tip you are using, and seemingly the colour of the paint.
dave
dave
That is why I will be practicing first, thanks for the tips. I decided to go with the PollyS 414227 Empire Green since it was easily available.
Here is a Polly Scale color chart in pdf if anyone is interested.
http://tinyurl.com/ywv2oh
Here is a Polly Scale color chart in pdf if anyone is interested.
http://tinyurl.com/ywv2oh
I will be using the image in the attached file below to mark the driver in 1/6 sections that allows you to mark the cone in the proper places to use and apply Dave's damar pattern as explained here. http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=535
Attachments
That is what i started out with... now i use a cone from a blowed-up FE127, that i have carefully cut-out... if is ever get the time i'll make a fold up 2D template that i will release (actually at some point -- unless someone sends me some more blown up 126/127 -- i'll have to do this)
dave
dave
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