The whizzer is super easy to cut off. You can start with scissors and finish with some small wire clippers or whatever you want.
The dammar ends up running a tiny bit so it would be easy to get it on the surround if you had it upside down, that alone is a reason not to do the underside. Plus it soaks down in some anyhow. A Soft brush works, just go small, or you might have to clean up a little bit as you work, with another brush.
Remember dammar does change things, my guess would be increasing the high frequency ability a little since it is more stiff, and hence going to be able to do more with the shorter frequencies, at least it sure would appear with mine. Loose the whizzer.
The dammar ends up running a tiny bit so it would be easy to get it on the surround if you had it upside down, that alone is a reason not to do the underside. Plus it soaks down in some anyhow. A Soft brush works, just go small, or you might have to clean up a little bit as you work, with another brush.
Remember dammar does change things, my guess would be increasing the high frequency ability a little since it is more stiff, and hence going to be able to do more with the shorter frequencies, at least it sure would appear with mine. Loose the whizzer.
WORS said:
This may not be as easy to do but making the cabinet triangle shaped is not your best bet. If it is going to go in the corner, you can make it in that general shape, but don't bring the back to a point. Corner cabinets are almost always notched back there.
I have a pair of Wharfedale Airedales, and they are corner cabinets, but have six sides to them. The front is the widest, with two smaller sides angled back about 35 degrees. Then the two running parallel to the back walls are at 90 degree to those two smaller front angles. They go back about 2/3s of the way to the corner, but stop and come together, parallel to the front face.
The reason for this is that not all corners are exact corners, and a shape that is notched will fit in Any corner, even if it is not 'true'.
I realize that this is much more difficult, but it will also look much better.
>>> All things considered, better to just buy a better driver at this level of tweaking...
I feel the same way about the B20. I enjoy it warts and all and leave it alone simply adding a super tweeter. Never heard a tweaked one so i cant comment on how far a B20s performance can be stretched. The playroom is a great place for a B20 IMO. If its destroyed by a ball or childrens curious hands its not expensive to replace. This driver has been around a long time so i dont expect it to be discontinued any time soon. According to one of the techs at PE it primarily sold as a ceiling speaker and has been for years. As much as i like this driver it is a bit veiled in the mids and needs a tweeter of some kind. It also has a sound that some find dull and others find relaxing and natural. Once a tweeter is dialed in to taste i find the driver a pleasure to listen to with out much fatigue at all. Compare it to a Fostex and you will hear what its missing. Without comparing, it always sounds full and relaxed.
I feel the same way about the B20. I enjoy it warts and all and leave it alone simply adding a super tweeter. Never heard a tweaked one so i cant comment on how far a B20s performance can be stretched. The playroom is a great place for a B20 IMO. If its destroyed by a ball or childrens curious hands its not expensive to replace. This driver has been around a long time so i dont expect it to be discontinued any time soon. According to one of the techs at PE it primarily sold as a ceiling speaker and has been for years. As much as i like this driver it is a bit veiled in the mids and needs a tweeter of some kind. It also has a sound that some find dull and others find relaxing and natural. Once a tweeter is dialed in to taste i find the driver a pleasure to listen to with out much fatigue at all. Compare it to a Fostex and you will hear what its missing. Without comparing, it always sounds full and relaxed.
Godzilla said:
I agree completely with you. I'm not familiar with the Fostex for comparison, but the B20 has been around all these years because it is a total success. And in the future, it can only be discontinued because of abject stupitidy or because it has been improved by Pioneer. It's a true 'value leader', and you would have to look far an wide to find one rated higher in that department.
AND it is highly tweakable for improvements. And that does not cost much more either. A true winner IMO!
Fast1one said:
No. My experience with damar is that it will stiffen the cone sufficiently to sinduce some breakup modes -- just the kind of thing i try to kill. On a whizzer cone driver with no top end, using it on the whizzer cone can stiffen things up sufficiently to give more HF (but part of that may well also be a breakup mode, but much higher). Worth experimenting with and one of the reasons i got 4 drivers. My prime purpose thou was to develop the phse plug with tweeter as i figure it can be done for essentially the same price as the phase plugs (for FE206/207/206rSR) that people are already putting into their B20s.
The cones can definitely benefit from treatment i just don't think damar is the best thing to use.
dave
OK guys, now that we have this thread, Let's use it for all discussion of mods to the driver itself, including adding a coax tweeter.
I find the B20 too rolled off without a tweeter.
If removing the whizzer rolls off the highs more, I don't think it would work for me. Now with a tweeter- maybe so!!
I find the B20 too rolled off without a tweeter.
If removing the whizzer rolls off the highs more, I don't think it would work for me. Now with a tweeter- maybe so!!
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