These things look like large, pricey versions of Pioneer B20s. Other than having obvious differences like cone size, factory phase plug, etc. They spec very similarly to the B20s. With some flexible digital EQ, I've been able to get the B20s to do an unreasonable facsimile of true full range, even on a very small baffle (too small to physically mount the Super12, actually). Figure on a good sized baffle with good EQ, you'll probably be able to run these without tweeter or bass augmentation as long as you're not looking for reference levels or bass below 40Hz.
I actually live about 15 minutes from Common Sense Audio. If I had a real budget for this hobby, I probably would have already tried this myself.
Scott,
Wouldn't these work okay in some sort of TL or MLTL? Those cabinets in Claude's picture look like MLTLs, not BR.
Kensai
I actually live about 15 minutes from Common Sense Audio. If I had a real budget for this hobby, I probably would have already tried this myself.
Scott,
Wouldn't these work okay in some sort of TL or MLTL? Those cabinets in Claude's picture look like MLTLs, not BR.
Kensai
I agree with Scottmoose. You need pretty big boxes to run these sealed or vented. They have a large Vas, requiring a large box and a small Xmax, limiting their lower frequency power.
Now for open baffle, if you stuck them in a JE Labs ob (http://members.myactv.net/~je2a3/open.htm), you might get some where. You should be able to put a bit of resistance in series with it as well to increase Qt and get a little more bass out of it in the open baffle. Simple to build and may sound really good. Again there is not much Xmax there which is known to be one thing that is required to get loud powerful bass. But at lower volumes it wouldn't matter much.
Now for open baffle, if you stuck them in a JE Labs ob (http://members.myactv.net/~je2a3/open.htm), you might get some where. You should be able to put a bit of resistance in series with it as well to increase Qt and get a little more bass out of it in the open baffle. Simple to build and may sound really good. Again there is not much Xmax there which is known to be one thing that is required to get loud powerful bass. But at lower volumes it wouldn't matter much.
Right. A box is going to be big by modern standards. Very big.
Like this kind of big: 1 MLTL for the AN Super12. 56in x 20in x 14.5in (HxWxD). Zdriver 23in. Vent 4in diameter, 0.75in long, as close to the base as possible. I rolled it off at the bottom, if you want max-flat, increase the vent diameter to 5in. Minimal damping needed -line the box with 1in acoustic fiberglass on opposite faces. Volume for this thing is just under 9.4 cubic feet if you don't want to do the math. They're pretty sensitive, so they should do OK for nearfield listening on a couple of watts before they breach Xmax.
Most people can't live with a pair of cabinets of this size these days (they were more common in the 1950s - '60s than they are today), so a baffle will probably still end up as your best bet.
Like this kind of big: 1 MLTL for the AN Super12. 56in x 20in x 14.5in (HxWxD). Zdriver 23in. Vent 4in diameter, 0.75in long, as close to the base as possible. I rolled it off at the bottom, if you want max-flat, increase the vent diameter to 5in. Minimal damping needed -line the box with 1in acoustic fiberglass on opposite faces. Volume for this thing is just under 9.4 cubic feet if you don't want to do the math. They're pretty sensitive, so they should do OK for nearfield listening on a couple of watts before they breach Xmax.
Most people can't live with a pair of cabinets of this size these days (they were more common in the 1950s - '60s than they are today), so a baffle will probably still end up as your best bet.
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i will take your'e design 56"x14-1/2x20" 
I have Nirvana Super 8s stamped frame. IMHO you need a BR cab to get the bass up to the level of the bright upper midrange. I feel you need to get these up to ear level, aim them at you (because they beam), and get some distants between you and the speaker (because they're bright). But they do image great and have detail that most speakers don't have. I think using a loudness control or bass control would help very much. Don't use much stuffing in the cab so the cab can resonant... My experience so far...
Right. That's why I favour lining opposite walls these days (little trick I learned from a friend). The MLTL for these monsters I suggested above should put the driver at a nice height too.
FWIW, the 6 1/2in & 8in AN units would be better off in a horn variation IMO, whatever CSA claim. A regular vented alignment or MLTL can't do much about the rising response over 1KHz (though adjusting the toe-angle works wonders). And the rest of their specs. lend themselves to that sort of a load.
FWIW, the 6 1/2in & 8in AN units would be better off in a horn variation IMO, whatever CSA claim. A regular vented alignment or MLTL can't do much about the rising response over 1KHz (though adjusting the toe-angle works wonders). And the rest of their specs. lend themselves to that sort of a load.
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