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Old 19th April 2008, 04:52 PM   #231
John L is offline John L  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by mattIlikesound
Hi

does anyone know the crossover details of the Duevel speakers say like the Jupiter? I suspect the Xover frequency is between mid and tweet is VERY low, requiring a tweeter that can be crossed over VERY low, are such special tweeters available for DIY? I have a unused diffuser floating around that I would like to use in surround speakers - its similar shape to the Duevels.
Have you checked out their site? I haven't been there for a little over a month now, and I see that they have discontinued the Jupitor, and the Sirius is slated to replace it. It is a Real Looker, and I bet it cost over $25,000 per pair.

I'm glad you resurrected this thread, as I have been negligent of late in forging ahead with the project. My lathe instructor has not been all that keen about the idea of dulling his tools again. It would be nice to finally get this project finished, so I can give them a serious listen.
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Old 19th April 2008, 07:20 PM   #232
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sorry I meant the venus not the jupiter
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Old 19th April 2008, 07:48 PM   #233
John L is offline John L  United States
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The crossover for the Venus will be higher than with the Jupiter, because it is using an 8" driver, and not a 12". 8" drivers have a higher ceiling and can afford to crossover higher. The added advantage is that you have a wider selection of tweaters available.

Have you gone through this thread yet? I have a lot of pictures and also have made modifications to the 8" Pioneer B20 that I am using. The B20 is pretty much a cult driver around here, due to it's low price, great sound, and flexibility. That is why I can use a cheap tweater along with it.

The only shortcoming is that it only has a true efficiency of about 90db, so it is not nearly as efficient as the much more expensive drivers costing $100 and more.
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Old 20th April 2008, 01:04 AM   #234
OzMikeH is offline OzMikeH  Australia
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I'm way, way too late with this John, but hopefully it may assist someone else drilling a magnet.

I used to repair thousands of handheld 2-way radios, Iron ore is big business in this part of the world and it loves speakers when you drop the radio in the dirt. They just keep turning the volume up until it is a packed mass banging against the grille.

My secret weapon for removing iron from speakers is: a screwdriver.
the iron prefers to stick to the screwdriver instead of the magnet. I remember being taught about it in high school physics but I can't remember why.

I have a cheap chromed steel handle screwdriver that seems to work better than others. shaft diameter is about 1/8th. Just touch a bit of iron with the screwdriver and it comes away with the top. Pinch it away off the screwdriver with your fingers and wipe your hand on your trousers - not a rag on the bench, you don't want iron filings getting back in the speaker

for the final clean-up you over-knead some blu-tac till it starts sticking to your fingers, and use a blob of that on a stick to pat the area. then throw the blu-tac away. post-it note (yellow sticky notes) or magic-tape works almost as well.

and to stop phase plugs wandering: Use blue dots. or equvalent, these are used to stick photographs in scrapbooks. they are small spots of non setting adhesive you put on the back of the picture then press the picture against the page. If you get the ones suitable for archival use they should last a long time.

Warning, the plug will not move sideways with these, so you need to roll the plug up in some paper, stick the roll if paper in the hole then push the phase plug back against the magnet with a finger or pencil.

If you mis-align the plug and can't grip it use 2 bits of scotch magic-tape tape to make a handle (the ordinary office sticky tape that has a frosted look, not clear).
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Old 26th April 2008, 07:58 PM   #235
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Hi,

I apologise, my last posts were abit confusing, I mixed up some of the names of the Duevel speakers.

Its good to see keen people regarding omnispeakers,
I have a diffuser that is very similar to the Duevel Venus, I'm interested in using it in a second attempt at making a omni speaker. my first attempt suffered bad colouration so I abandoned it.

I'd be interested to know what the Xover frequency is on the Venus, I suspect that maybe a low X'over is required between the mid and tweet in order to avoid colouration between the midwoofer and diffuser, say maybe around 1kHz?? And hence with the lower Xover a bigger tweeter is required to handle the extension?? I could be wrong though..I found a scanspeak 1 1/2 inch dome tweeter that might work, other people on the forum have also suggested horn tweeters..
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Old 26th June 2008, 03:53 AM   #236
mightym is offline mightym  United States
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JohnL

any progress on your Omni's?

At last report veneering was progressing, some of us want to know how they are doing now...

JohnB
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Old 24th October 2008, 08:33 PM   #237
John L is offline John L  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by mightym
JohnL

any progress on your Omni's?

At last report veneering was progressing, some of us want to know how they are doing now...

JohnB
Yes, I finally got off my Keester, and have found the solution to the reflector problem. I'll go into it in detail, either tonight or tomorrow, but here is a picture of what I have been doing.

Click the image to open in full size.

Instead of using wood, I finally got around to doing it in ceramics. I had to get on a waiting list, in order to take an introductory ceramics class at the community craft center. It's a requirement for Everyone, regardles their experience in ceramics. I wound up missing one by a couple of days, and just waited around until the September class began. Now that the six week class is over, I have 1 year studio privileges, which means I can use the studio, including potters wheel, anytime there is an open spot and no classes.

The bottom of the diffraction horn is my second attempt at it. I'll go over the trials and mistakes I made with the first one, when I post next.

Anyway, I'm back on track again, and expect to finish the project before I get lazy again.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 24th October 2008, 09:01 PM   #238
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You going to fire that or just coat it with your trusty ole shellac?



Good to see you back and working on these again.
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Old 24th October 2008, 09:46 PM   #239
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Imagine that dropping on your driver!
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Old 24th October 2008, 10:20 PM   #240
John L is offline John L  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Godzilla
Imagine that dropping on your driver!
It won't be all that heavy. I'm only going to make one sample of each half of the horn. Once I get it smooth, I'm going to build a mold frame, then mix and pour Hydrocal plaster into the frame. When it cures, I'll break the wooden frame apart and turn it upside down.

To make the lenses, I will pour high temperature slip into the mold, let it set for about 7 minutes. The slip in contact with the mold will start transfering moisture to the mold, and it will harden up. When it reaches a certain thickness, I'll pour out the liquid part in the middle. After the slip dries, I will turn it over and the slip finished part will come loose. If I spray the plaster with Pam, it will come loose easily.

From there, I'll glue the two parts together, and finish the seams. All the holes will be drilled and ready for the length of threadall that will go from top of the lense to the main frame. After that, the lady at the craft center will bisque fire the pieces, and then send them through the high fire process, where the ceramic lense will be very hard and sturdy.

When you see commercially poured slip pottery, you are looking at low fire slip. it is less expensive, but is not as sturdy as the more expensive high fire slip. These will be fired at around cone eight, somewhere around 2200degrees. The low fire ceramics you see in the stores are fired at temps whose numbers are prefaced with a "0" in front. The link above will show you a temperature cone chart, which will explain things better.

Anyway, when it is fired and allowed to cool, I will just spray paint it with a black gloss or semi-gloss. I won't be going with a high fire glaze on these, because it is not needed.

That's just an outline of things I need to do. I'll get back with you guys later with more pictures too.
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