Hexagon Pioneer B20FU20 Enclosure

[John L]

Originally posted by dlneubec
Hi John,

I've used TB III many times and it dries about the same color as it starts. It is not nearly as dark as that one you posted in the Arby's bottle. I think it might possibly be a better color for all but the lightest woods, like Birch, Maple, Aspen, etc., assuming it works as well with the iron on glue method. I used it to egde glue up a Maple baffle (with biscuits) and it is barely detectable. I can take a photo if anyone is interested.

Yes, that would be very informative.

[MJL21193]

Hi John,
Thought about veneering the cap?
I'd be tempted to do it like this:

[John L]

Originally posted by MJL21193
Hi John,
Thought about veneering the cap?
I'd be tempted to do it like this:

I had indeed. But there is only one little problem with that approach. If you will note, I had made a rabbet cut along the top of the cabinet pieces. this meant that the cap fits down inside the walls. If I veneered the top cap there would still be a 3/16 outer portion that would not be finished. By applying a P/L piece to the top and trimming it all around, the entire top would be finished, and removable. Only if I could come up with a thick enough piece of wood would that work, and the overhanging portion would still be more fragile than the P/L.

Also, the driver is black, as will the diffusion lense too. so keeping it black will probably go with the colour scheme better. It would be nice if I had thought this one through a little better. The next hexagon enclosures will be a bit different, and incorprate all the improvements I have learned with this project.

Here is some really nice stuff I just acquired off E-Bay for a very nice price.



It is "Yew" and it is loaded with cluster burls. It's fairly light and perfectly highlights the burls. Unfortunately the sap at the corners will not be there when trimmed down, but it should prove to be a nice looking veneer should I decide to use it with a hexagon enclosure. I also have another order coming which will also will be good for a follow-up project.

[MJL21193]

Interesting looking veneer. Not my thing, but appeals to many.

I'm not sure why you want to make the cap (baffle) removable. I'd trim down the sides flush with the top, fill any gaps around with body filler and veneer it. I think it would look better that way - more modern, professional.
Speakers, like cars, used to have lots of trim on them. It's all about clean lines now though.

Just my own unsolicited personal view and opinion.

[John L]

Originally posted by MJL21193


Just my own unsolicited personal view and opinion.

I know, and that is why I solicit it, unlike some others here.

Here is why I want it to be removable. I like to tinker with things, and the B20 may not be the perfect driver for this unit. And perhaps I may wish to upgrade to the Fostex 207. Who knows? Also, I may wish to go to a larger driver, which a 2.75 cu ft enclosure would allow.

I would much rather have a flexible enclosure than be locked in to just one thing. Besides, the pluses of being flexible far outweigh the negatives of rigidity, IMO.

BTY, if a unique cluster burl does not 'float your boat', what does?



Is this "Wormey Maple" too light in the loafers for you?

I have to confess that I am not a big fan of dark woods much anymore. That is why walnut is one of my least favorite woods. It's just too bland for me, and overrated IMO. I like variety.

What does excite your visual aroma? And perhaps others can give their opinions too. This thread is about more than just the speakers in the speaker enclosures.

[MJL21193]

I actually like plain, straight grain, with no defects or figure the most. I like the shimmer of tiger strip maple in the right place (not an expansive panel).
I have a good appreciation of quarter sawn oak, especially white oak. I like black walnut, but only the heartwood. American cherry has nice features that can add character to a piece - spalts and wavy grain.
I want my projects to have subtle beauty, not a full on visual assault. Sometimes the veneer choice can really be too much, especially on a complex project.

[dlneubec]

John,

You could simply create a new baffle to sit on top of the one you have already that overlaps your rabit joint. It could mdf that you paint black or even a contrasting solid hardwood, if you are not worried about splitting.

If 3/4", that would allow you to cut some chamfers on that baffle, sort of like Duevel does on theirs and like I did on my first 13" square omni (mine were about 2" x 1/2"). It could easily glued to the other pieces or held with screws or bolts with hurricane nuts imbedded in your original bafle. The original baffle could even be glued into the box that way, since the new baffle would be removable. You could also cut the hole in the original baffle about larger so that you would be able to add a new top baffle anytime you want and grow the driver in size. It would also give the driver a little more breathing room this way, since the combined baffle depth would be pretty thick.

Just some food for thought.

[John L]

Thanks Dan. If things don't work out for me, I will give it a go, and do something akin to what you and John are recommending.

I feel very comfortable with P/L, have worked with it for several years in commercial construction, and know a lot about it's strengths and weaknesses.

I went to Lowes and checked out the price on several types of Wilson Art and Formica P/L today, and the minimum size requirements are quite a bit. With one, I have to purchase at least a 36" x 96" sheet , and the other the minimum is a 48" x 96" piece. The prices run from $58 to $74. That is far too much for what I am willing to plank out at this time for just two baffle tops.

However, I already have several nice pieces of P/L in other colours and finishes. What I will probably do is make a rough cut, and use contact cememt to adhere it to the cap. Then trim the piece, and lightly sand the surface, to help paint stick better to the plastic. Then spray paint it with the same black I am using on the base.

Keep in mind that the P/L is very stiff, and a 3/8" overlap will be very sturdy, thin, and the edge can match the top, and not overwhelm the veneered sides. I'll give it a try, and if I have problems, I can always fall back on your recommendations. But I can't do anything today, as I still have snow on my back deck, and it is a balmy 32.7F here in Raleigh. Not the best weather to be out working on contact cement, that's for certain.


BTY, I also like those chamfers too, but I am worried about the placement of the driver, and mounting the tweeter on the modified phase plug. If I'm not careful, it will stick so far out that the diffusion horn will have to be set too far upward.

What I am really thinking about is perhaps recessing the driver below the baffle. Since the diffuser would be doing the dispersion, would recessing the driver hurt it's performance?

[MJL21193]

Have you considered edge banding? It comes in black. Just iron it on and trim it.

[John L]

Originally posted by MJL21193
Have you considered edge banding? It comes in black. Just iron it on and trim it.

I have John. In fact that is the first thing I went looking for locally. Unfortunately, I could only find the white banding. I had intended to look on the internet and order some, but came up with this P/L idea first.

The problem with the trim banding would be that I would need to trim off at least half of it, because the black just doesn't look all that nice if it is wide.

I'm still thinking of all my options with that.