Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Full Range

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 15th December 2007, 07:39 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: nrw
Default Olivia Chang

So, after checking my budget, my decision between chili and olivia fell on Olivia.
After I build a pair of fostex fe168ez rec just using a circular hand sew, I wanted to go the easy way now.
I went to our local Obi-market and paid only 27,- Euro for the cutted wood.
So I just have to glue the parts.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

So far by now.
The fostex did not arrive yet, so I have time to to do the finish and the damping.
now my question: How to damp the chamber?
Line the inside walls withvelt? Put in some wadding? If so, how much?

do I need a baffe step correction with these?
thanks in advance
Der Spassgeneral
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th December 2007, 08:49 PM   #2
hermanv is offline hermanv  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Northern California
Wadding expands the apparent chamber volume, but does little or nothing for internal reflections.

I like felt, untreated or raw wool about 1/2" (1 to 1.5 cm) thick all around the driver walls, being careful not to block the port slots. Also many feel that there shouldn't be any felt on the mounting baffle wall.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th December 2007, 12:18 AM   #3
Kensai is offline Kensai  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: St. Louis
Send a message via AIM to Kensai
The general advice I've seen about by folks I would trust is to line the back, either the top or the bottom and one side wall with felt or cork or a layer of batting.

Kensai
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th December 2007, 03:12 AM   #4
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Nanook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chinook Country.Alberta
Default a finish suggestion.

Go get some automotive acrylic spray on primers and spray the inside and outside with it. Go get some automotive spray lacquer paint in a colour that you or your partner (or both) like. Take your time and scuff the primer, and use a tack rag to remove and sanding "dust". Spray the enclosures in several light coats, scuffing each lightly until you reach 3 or 4 coats. and then stop (most important in areas that will be visible. No need to build up layers inside the "box" or behind it, but do get a good coat of the paint in there)....

when the drivers arrive , install them and enjoy. Your enclosures do look quite good.

stew
__________________
stew -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane."
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th December 2007, 03:27 AM   #5
hermanv is offline hermanv  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Northern California
Quote:
Originally posted by Kensai
The general advice I've seen about by folks I would trust is to line the back, either the top or the bottom and one side wall with felt or cork or a layer of batting.

Kensai
This one reflective one absorbent is a good idea for listening rooms to prevent them from sounding too dead. I'm not too sure it's a good idea for driver enclosures.

It might be easy enough to try it both ways, whatever sounds good to you is the only rule worth following - enjoy your new speakers.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th December 2007, 11:04 AM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Scottmoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
The object is to kill standing waves without over-damping. So opposing walls generally works well.

Wool carpet underlay is a cheap & effective material for damping purposes.
__________________
Community site www.frugal-horn.com Commercial site www.wodendesign.com
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2007, 07:52 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: nrw
Default disappointed

They are ready to play now.
I glued some bracing in, lined the inside walls with carpet, put in a little bit of wadding and connected the fe127e.
Everything is perfectly sealed, but there is very little bass. I know the fostex have to break in, my fe168ez changed heavily during the first 40 hours of playing, but I think the sound too thin. The fr diagram let me think there would be usable output to 50 hz. I don't use bsc so far. The enclosures stand tight to the back wall, so baffle step is not the main issue I think.
May be I just have to be patient to hear how the little fostex break in.
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2007, 08:11 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: nrw
Default finish

@ nanook
This is exactly, what I want to do.
They will become grey-metallic. Colour of my wifes car.
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2007, 09:01 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Scottmoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
Naturally. They require a circuit & some breaking in of the driver. These boxes are not intended to go particularly low however -they're for partnering with separate woofers.
__________________
Community site www.frugal-horn.com Commercial site www.wodendesign.com
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2007, 10:18 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Scottmoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
Re-reading your post, I do hope you didn't line them with carpet? That's far too thick / heavy & will kill what LF I designed into them. They don't need very much. Adding still more wadding will just make things even worse. It's thin, wool carpet underlay that's the stuff to use, & not on every face, but on opposite faces (e.g. top, one side-wall, and back), as I mentioned. That's more than sufficient & will provide a damped sound.

Give the drivers a week to break in, and if you're still not happy (unlikely if they're over-damped), rip out all the lining & wadding you put in the chamber, save for a small piece directly behind the driver, and a small amount on the bottom. That should make them good for ~70 - 80Hz in-room, as intended. Make sure the throats are clear too.
__________________
Community site www.frugal-horn.com Commercial site www.wodendesign.com
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
G Chang Questions leeoh Full Range 16 1st January 2009 07:07 AM
Half Chang or Suzy Chang with Subwoofer? tripathdude Full Range 2 15th December 2008 04:47 PM
ML TL or Half Chang for AN s8 ? aroS3 Full Range 2 17th September 2008 11:33 AM
Double Chang gpsmithii Full Range 37 9th March 2008 06:01 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:54 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2