So, after checking my budget, my decision between chili and olivia fell on Olivia.
After I build a pair of fostex fe168ez rec just using a circular hand sew, I wanted to go the easy way now.
I went to our local Obi-market and paid only 27,- Euro
for the cutted wood.
So I just have to glue the parts.
So far by now.
The fostex did not arrive yet, so I have time to to do the finish and the damping.
now my question: How to damp the chamber?
Line the inside walls withvelt? Put in some wadding? If so, how much?
do I need a baffe step correction with these?
thanks in advance
Der Spassgeneral
After I build a pair of fostex fe168ez rec just using a circular hand sew, I wanted to go the easy way now.
I went to our local Obi-market and paid only 27,- Euro
for the cutted wood. So I just have to glue the parts.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
So far by now.
The fostex did not arrive yet, so I have time to to do the finish and the damping.
now my question: How to damp the chamber?
Line the inside walls withvelt? Put in some wadding? If so, how much?
do I need a baffe step correction with these?
thanks in advance
Der Spassgeneral
Wadding expands the apparent chamber volume, but does little or nothing for internal reflections.
I like felt, untreated or raw wool about 1/2" (1 to 1.5 cm) thick all around the driver walls, being careful not to block the port slots. Also many feel that there shouldn't be any felt on the mounting baffle wall.
I like felt, untreated or raw wool about 1/2" (1 to 1.5 cm) thick all around the driver walls, being careful not to block the port slots. Also many feel that there shouldn't be any felt on the mounting baffle wall.
a finish suggestion.
Go get some automotive acrylic spray on primers and spray the inside and outside with it. Go get some automotive spray lacquer paint in a colour that you or your partner (or both) like. Take your time and scuff the primer, and use a tack rag to remove and sanding "dust". Spray the enclosures in several light coats, scuffing each lightly until you reach 3 or 4 coats. and then stop (most important in areas that will be visible. No need to build up layers inside the "box" or behind it, but do get a good coat of the paint in there)....
when the drivers arrive , install them and enjoy. Your enclosures do look quite good.
stew
Go get some automotive acrylic spray on primers and spray the inside and outside with it. Go get some automotive spray lacquer paint in a colour that you or your partner (or both) like. Take your time and scuff the primer, and use a tack rag to remove and sanding "dust". Spray the enclosures in several light coats, scuffing each lightly until you reach 3 or 4 coats. and then stop (most important in areas that will be visible. No need to build up layers inside the "box" or behind it, but do get a good coat of the paint in there)....
when the drivers arrive , install them and enjoy. Your enclosures do look quite good.
stew
This one reflective one absorbent is a good idea for listening rooms to prevent them from sounding too dead. I'm not too sure it's a good idea for driver enclosures.Kensai said:
It might be easy enough to try it both ways, whatever sounds good to you is the only rule worth following - enjoy your new speakers.
disappointed
They are ready to play now.
I glued some bracing in, lined the inside walls with carpet, put in a little bit of wadding and connected the fe127e.
Everything is perfectly sealed, but there is very little bass. I know the fostex have to break in, my fe168ez changed heavily during the first 40 hours of playing, but I think the sound too thin. The fr diagram let me think there would be usable output to 50 hz. I don't use bsc so far. The enclosures stand tight to the back wall, so baffle step is not the main issue I think.
May be I just have to be patient to hear how the little fostex break in.
They are ready to play now.
I glued some bracing in, lined the inside walls with carpet, put in a little bit of wadding and connected the fe127e.
Everything is perfectly sealed, but there is very little bass. I know the fostex have to break in, my fe168ez changed heavily during the first 40 hours of playing, but I think the sound too thin. The fr diagram let me think there would be usable output to 50 hz. I don't use bsc so far. The enclosures stand tight to the back wall, so baffle step is not the main issue I think.
May be I just have to be patient to hear how the little fostex break in.
Re-reading your post, I do hope you didn't line them with carpet? That's far too thick / heavy & will kill what LF I designed into them. They don't need very much. Adding still more wadding will just make things even worse. It's thin, wool carpet underlay that's the stuff to use, & not on every face, but on opposite faces (e.g. top, one side-wall, and back), as I mentioned. That's more than sufficient & will provide a damped sound.
Give the drivers a week to break in, and if you're still not happy (unlikely if they're over-damped), rip out all the lining & wadding you put in the chamber, save for a small piece directly behind the driver, and a small amount on the bottom. That should make them good for ~70 - 80Hz in-room, as intended. Make sure the throats are clear too.
Give the drivers a week to break in, and if you're still not happy (unlikely if they're over-damped), rip out all the lining & wadding you put in the chamber, save for a small piece directly behind the driver, and a small amount on the bottom. That should make them good for ~70 - 80Hz in-room, as intended. Make sure the throats are clear too.
carpet
Thanks Scott,
no I did not line the whole inside of the cab with carpet. The Baffle is not lined. it is very Thin Carpet. In germany it is called "Nadelfilz". First, I ll remove the wadding. I am curious to see, if I can let them sing.
Tuning my fe168ez rec, I removed the driver at least 30 times to change chamber volume, lining and wadding. At last I ended without wadding., original Volume and with thick velt at all inside Walls of the chamber. The fault was, I began tuning much to early, before the drivers had fully broken in.
Thank You very much for Your advices, Scott. Who should I ask, if not the man who designed them.
Thanks Scott,
no I did not line the whole inside of the cab with carpet. The Baffle is not lined. it is very Thin Carpet. In germany it is called "Nadelfilz". First, I ll remove the wadding. I am curious to see, if I can let them sing.
Tuning my fe168ez rec, I removed the driver at least 30 times to change chamber volume, lining and wadding. At last I ended without wadding., original Volume and with thick velt at all inside Walls of the chamber. The fault was, I began tuning much to early, before the drivers had fully broken in.
Thank You very much for Your advices, Scott. Who should I ask, if not the man who designed them.
Hope you manage to get them working right for your taste. They're not bass-champions -the apparant extension is primarily a consequence of me going for as flat a response as possible so they can hand over to a sub or pair of subs. They're basically a tall Fonken floorstander with end-corrected vents you see & major in midrange sweetness etc. But they should be useable down to 70 -80Hz or so. I've run 126s in the original Harvey prototype which isn't too different in terms of loading, & the LF does improve as the drivers break in.
I thought as much. Glad they're starting to come on-song.
A Zobel is good to clobber the inductive rise of some drivers (amongst other things) especially if partnered with a low output impedance amp. The 127 isn't likely to benefit much though, so I wouldn't bother with one, at this stage anyway. Something for future tweaking.
A Zobel is good to clobber the inductive rise of some drivers (amongst other things) especially if partnered with a low output impedance amp. The 127 isn't likely to benefit much though, so I wouldn't bother with one, at this stage anyway. Something for future tweaking.
al,ost finished
They are sprayed now. They look horrible. It is not too bad, when I turn down the lights. My next pair I put wallpaper on. You cant do anything wron with that.
I sanded, put primer on, sanded, sprayed. some spots did not take any color. Luckily on the back side. Some areas do shine others don't.
I don't bother anymore.
Important is, that they sound good. Still without bsc with their backs against the wall.
I will burn some CDs with simulated bs correction.
So I can play with different values and decide later how many db to correct and where the 'turnover' will be.
They are sprayed now. They look horrible.
It is not too bad, when I turn down the lights. My next pair I put wallpaper on. You cant do anything wron with that.I sanded, put primer on, sanded, sprayed. some spots did not take any color. Luckily on the back side. Some areas do shine others don't.
I don't bother anymore.
Important is, that they sound good. Still without bsc with their backs against the wall.
I will burn some CDs with simulated bs correction.
So I can play with different values and decide later how many db to correct and where the 'turnover' will be.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Scottmoose said:
indeed, by the time you count the time/materials required to achieve even a passable paint job on MDF, you could well have plastic laminated the cut parts before assembly, or used preveneered sheet goods, with PSA or iron-on veneer edge tape, and applied an oil based finish.
As for "tuning" any BSC/zobels, etc - how many hours playing time on the drivers? I'd suggest you give them at least 200hrs of hard riding before even playing with them, and that if you can keep them flat against the back walls, the depth of cabinet is such that BSC might not be required at all. A suprabaffle could possibly elicit far more improvement, as would EnABL treatment to the driver cones.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.