Budget speakers, what would you buy?

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I found I had a pioneer receiver made in 1993 that works (tested with some speakers), still looks new, sounds nice and outputs 50w 8-16ohm per channel.

I am looking to get speakers (for this amplifier/reciever) on a budget that would sound good in a larger box/enclosure and would produce the fullest range (with emphasis on mid and highs/ sub range not necessarily important). Ideally, I would only like to spend $100-120 max as this is not for professional use. So I would just like something that sounds good, but doesn't have to sound outstanding. Is there anything that you could recommend? If the driver also sounds good/decent when listening off-axis that would also be a plus but not completely necessary. I was looking at some of the 3" and 4" tangband full range drivers. Is it possible to get good highs on a full range speaker or is it wise to pair it with a tweeter?
 
Thank you. =) Are there any other ones that are smaller than 8" you would recommended? It seems the pioneer is better for low/mid? I'm looking more for mid/high.

I don't really know how to do crossovers so I guess adding a tweeter may not be feesable =\ Or do crossovers only take a resistor/capacitor to setup? If that's the case, I'd be able to do that.
 
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The Pioneer used in that design goes fairly high and the tweeter sweetens the high end of things. The crossover is simply a 2 uf capacitor wired from the + terminal of the Pioneer to the + terminal of the Dayton tweeter. For the amount of $$ you are budgeted for it would be hard to beat.
There have been quite a few of these built so there are lots of folks that can offer tips and advice (plant10 among them).

See BudP's EnABL thread and you can take it to the next level too!

:cheers:
 
The B20's little cousin, the Pioneer A11 4.5"er does a good job for about $10/driver. Published specs, some sets of DIYer measured specs I've seen and even my own frequency sweep tests show that they don't seem to extend as far up in frequency as the bigger B20s, but weirdly enough, they seem more forward, like small Fostex fullrangers tend to be, so I don't see any reason to add a supertweet. So all they'd need would be an appropriate enclosure to give them some bass, and there are plenty of options. I've got one in an experimental BiB enlcosure with a 102" line and rear firing, floor level mouth, all folded up into a 48"x12"x7.5" package that's getting solid to 50Hz and some useable below. Using WinISD and some of those DIYed specs, you can see a ported box easily to 60Hz and sealed to 85-90Hz. You might try to be more fancy and do the ported style box but with expanding vent mouth(s) ala the Scottmoose designs. A DBVR of his tuned for this driver should be a nice, big, balanced sound and not terribly hard to build.

Kensai
 
Wow great. Thanks for the replies =)

If the crossover is "simply a 2 uf capacitor wired from the + terminal of the Pioneer to the + terminal of the Dayton tweeter" then that would be simple enough for me =) Would that same thing "2uf cap" work on different speakers with similar specs?

I'd actually like less bass for my purposes, so maybe the 4.5" would work out too. I'll go read up on those suggestions to see what I can find. Thanks again =)
 
cerupcat said:
Wow great. Thanks for the replies =)

If the crossover is "simply a 2 uf capacitor wired from the + terminal of the Pioneer to the + terminal of the Dayton tweeter" then that would be simple enough for me =) Would that same thing "2uf cap" work on different speakers with similar specs?


the 2 uf cap simply means that whatever tweeter is used will be rolled off at 10 khz, at 6db/octave. It doesn't matter what drivers are involved. Levels are not controlled by this setup either, so you want to make sure that you don't have a huge disparity in efficency between the pioneer and whatever tweeter/super tweeter you're using to augment the highs. Or maybe you want a real efficient tweeter if you like sizzily highs, or have no high end hearing left :)

GB
 
I'll second the 8" Pioneer (I'm playing with a pair right now).

Another option might be something like the CSS FR125 4" full range driver, in an MLTL or BIB cabinet. I have mine in BIB cabinets, driven by a Yamaha receiver and loaded against a wall (but not in corners). I feel no need to add a tweeter, and they make plenty of bass, too. The cabinets are tall, but the footprint is quite small. I have no experience with the Tang Bands, but the BIB might be an option for them too.

Bill
 
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I 3rd the BOFU (Pioneer 8") and i've not heard it yet (i do have 4 of the FR and 10 tweeters on the way -- fully modded coaxes are the goal). With the truly big boxes (BIB, Chang, Curvy Chang, Half Chang), this 2-way offers (at least to all that have heard them) amazing bang for the buck,

The FR125 is good too (and probably does mids better), It slots right in to the new PE curved 1/4 ft^3 box for a minimum effort build. (heard these EnABLed on the weekend -- another step up, got Bob (Mr CSS) stoked). I do know where you might find a deal on some too.

dave
 
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cerupcat said:
Where can I find information, specs/price and a place to possible buy the CSS FR125 ones? Would I need a tweeter to go with or does the FR125 do a good enough job in both mid/high end?

Mail me. Most people find no need for a tweeter, bit for those that do, it doesn't take much of a tweeter to brighten things up (crossed even higher than the one on the BOFU)

dave
 
Mail me. Most people find no need for a tweeter, bit for those that do, it doesn't take much of a tweeter to brighten things up (crossed even higher than the one on the BOFU)

Ok. Sent.

I only found those CSS FR125 one place for $70 each which is more than I can afford for this. So if it's not possible to get 2 for under $100 then I'd need another alternative full range to look at that is smaller than 8".
 
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